will 1 tight valve cause ticking?

when I checked my valve clearences 1 of the intake clearences is tight & I have noticed the engine is ticking more now than it used too so is this likely to be the cause of the ticking? All the other 3 valves are within spec & the ticking is there from cold & doesn't get worse when hot. Also Ive never changed or had the shims out before so don't know what size is in any of them so is the only way to know what size I need to get is by taking it out & will it havre the size on it or will i have to use a micrometer to measure it? & what size less would you recomend me getting to make the clearence within spec? I mean is it likely to be next size down that i need or could it be a few sizes differnce? sorry if i sound a bit clueless here but tbh I am coz I've never done it before


PS its only done 3000 miles since i last checked them & they were all well within spec then if that matters or helps with answers

The best way to get the right size shim is to pull it out and measure it. That will give you the exact size. After you know your shim size, add your current clearance to that number, then subtract the tolerance ( you can either aim for the middle of the spec, or shim it to the larger side of the tolerance which will make it so you won't have to adjust your valves as much.) That is the shim size you will need. That way you don't have to buy several different sized shims and play a guessing game. Hot Cams sells an excellent shim kit which makes maintenance that much easier.

The tapping could be from the tight valve, your autodecomp if you still have that, or now you're noticing it because you know a valve is tight.

Hope this helps and didn't confuse you more.

what are you calling tight? but no tight valves generally dont tick, they are usually silent for lack of excessive gap like loose valves.

Reshim the inlet valve and check your exhaust cam auto decomp assembly immediately, it might be on the verge of spontaneously combusting which may wreck your motor, also check your camchain and tensioner, is the noise coming from the top or bottom end of the engine? 

Reshim the inlet valve and check your exhaust cam auto decomp assembly immediately, it might be on the verge of spontaneously combusting which may wreck your motor, also check your camchain and tensioner, is the noise coming from the top or bottom end of the engine? 



+1 on this , usually the top end noise is the decomp slapping around , greg

How many miles on the motor ?

OP......Post up your valve clearances mate....


I agree the ticking is probably more related to the auto decomp than anything else.

Loose lash causes ticking not tight.

Hi thanks for the replys. I'll try answer all questions in 1 rather than quoteing every1, 

17,000 miles on the motor but it had top end rebuild by previous owner when I bought it at 10,000 & they were all ok 3000 miles ago.

0.15mm was feeler guage I was using to check & its the intake valve nearest to cam chain (the most awkward to get at imo) & the guage was bending rather than slide in so I tried a 0.10mm and that would just start to go in at the tip but then no further and I dont have a smaller feeler guage to try. the other intake was right with the 0.15mm guage and both exhaust were right with a 0.25mm guage, when i say right i mean i could get the guage in & could feel slight resistance on it so it wasn't too slack or too tight, thats how i was learned on setting tappets on overhead valve car engines when i was an apprentice 25 years ago so i pressume its same theory? 

I'm pretty sure the auto decomp hasn't been removed so I'll do that when i strip it again to find my shim size if you think its better off without it??

I've got a manual CCT & its set right plus its not the cam chain kinda rattle noise if that were loose its a high pitch sinle tick that increases with engine speed if that makes sense? I dont know if any of you are familiar with ford CVH engines but its the kinda ticking sound they make when the oil filled cam followers are worn.

Ideally I would get a hot cams shim kit but I'm in UK so I'd have to pay a small fortune by time I add delivery & taxes etc plus waiting for them to arrive from US so its better for me to buy single shims from in the UK so thats why I wannna know best way to find out what size I'm gonna need. 

What size is usually in there from new so I can order a few different sizes that are close to it so hopefully I'll have the right size I need when i strip it rather have to strip it measure the 1 thats in and rebuild while i wait to order 1 then have to strip again to fit it

Thanks again 


Edited by carlspeaky

0.095m (in essence)sounds ok on the inlet, just a touch tight but still close enough to spec (0.10 -0.20mm), if it tightens up next check then you know the valve may be on the way out, if it opens up a little or remains the same then all good, you need to check the auto decomp, like right now, the little hardened pin the holds in the rotating cam part can shear off and cause all sorts of havoc, if in doubt remove the decomp assembly, very carefully by grinding down and breaking off the hardened base plate (where the locating dowel is and the opposite side), don't press off the cam sprocket, it wont help with removal and it will f**k your timing up because no matter how hard you try it will never be in the right place when you press it back on. Better still get some stage 2 hotcams (9.05mm lift, 238 duration), they are not expensive at all off ebay sellers or here on TT, there have ben no listed problems with the decomp unit on those and they will give you some horsepower, plus some wiggle room cam wise if you go for a FCR 39mm kit in the future.

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