10 400 throttle response

I just adjusted my intake valves, as some of you probably read in another thread, what I find now if I open the throttle as fast as I can the bike will either stall, not sure if it did this before or I have the spec out or it's a carb issue, any ideas?

Still has lots of power

I just adjusted my intake valves, as some of you probably read in another thread, what I find now if I open the throttle as fast as I can the bike will either stall, not sure if it did this before or I have the spec out or it's a carb issue, any ideas?

Still has lots of power

FCR Carb and 4 stroke, Immediate closed to WOT equals bog

FCR Carb and 4 stroke, Immediate closed to WOT equals bog

Ok, thanks, don't think I did it before so wasn't sure if it was something I did, going to take it out today and try it. I do get some flame out once and a while and now I have a rekluse I would like to try and get rid of the flame out

FCR Carb and 4 stroke, Immediate closed to WOT equals bog

Has a bog just after I open the throttle, when the rekluse engages it's almost like it won't pull the low rpm if I open the throttle quickly. Could this be the intake valves set wrong? Thought I set them at .10 to .175

FCR Carb and 4 stroke, Immediate closed to WOT equals bog

This is 100% wrong!

 

Has a bog just after I open the throttle, when the rekluse engages it's almost like it won't pull the low rpm if I open the throttle quickly. Could this be the intake valves set wrong? Thought I set them at .10 to .175

This bog can be removed with proper tuning and yes tight/in spec valves will have affect. Depending on what model of Rekluse you have, low end circuit needs to be spot on otherwise it gives these issues. Also setting the engagement to low will stall the bike and poor low fuel circuit settings will highlight this. I would suggest adjusting the idle circuit again, slightly rich the better. Also try raising your idle to 2300-2400rpms.

 

Valves would be the last thing to check but If your valves are to tight then the motor will basically flame out when cracking the throttle. If the valves are in spec and the motor was tuned when they were tight you can be too rich for the set-up you are using. 

Is the bog while in neutral, or while you are riding?

I've heard that a small bog is ok if in neutral. Obviously, it would not be acceptable while riding.

Normal riding and whacking the throttle wide open from idle are two different things. Yes, in my experience with the exp, I prefer the highest possible idle engagement speed. But if you whack any 4 stroke carbed bike to WOT from idle it will bog. Not fast and smooth, but just fast as you can to WOT it will bog. If it does bog under normal riding conditions it is most likely a leak jet issue.

I did put the 3 stiffer springs in my rekluse because I wanted a higher engagement point. My valves def aren't tight, I went from a 2.50 shim to a 2.40 on one and 2.35 on the other, I couldn't even get a .054mm feeler in.

I am going to open it up again and make sure everything is correct, I don't recall it running like this before when I rode it with the rekluse when the valves were tight.

FCR Carb and 4 stroke, Immediate closed to WOT equals bog

Not mine! Instant throttle response from fully closed to wide open. Of course I paid for that feature. Courtesy of Tokyo Mods.

Not mine! Instant throttle response from fully closed to wide open. Of course I paid for that feature. Courtesy of Tokyo Mods.

Feels like a carb issue, I just wonder why it does it now after I did the intakes, I did get a couple of small exhaust backfires when I wack the throttle and some times when I start it I get it as well, really wonder if I got my cam off one tooth. I know it ran great last winter without adjusting the carb.

Feels like a carb issue, I just wonder why it does it now after I did the intakes, I did get a couple of small exhaust backfires when I wack the throttle and some times when I start it I get it as well, really wonder if I got my cam off one tooth. I know it ran great last winter without adjusting the carb.

Yikes! That would not be good. If you pull it apart again, make sure the marks on the sprockets line up with the machined top of the head. Also, you can zip tie the both sprockets to the chain and still be able to lift them enough to change the shims.

Yikes! That would not be good. If you pull it apart again, make sure the marks on the sprockets line up with the machined top of the head. Also, you can zip tie the both sprockets to the chain and still be able to lift them enough to change the shims.

Had it apart before when I did the tensioner upgrade, I think I'll take the plug out, really hard to get TDC with the compression, wants bump past

Holy crap!! What a major PITA to turn a PDF file into an image. Hope this works for you. I'm sure you have seen this but thought I would put it on here. 

file_zps2502e7e5.jpg

Holy crap!! What a major PITA to turn a PDF file into an image. Hope this works for you. I'm sure you have seen this but thought I would put it on here.

Posted Image

I have all that info downloaded, first thing I do before I pull things apart but thanks

Checked everything again today, all looks good, locked it at TDC checked cam marks and re checked the valve clearance. Going to change the plug and ride it again, looks like it's the stock plug

Is what your experiencing  bog or a flat spot? As far as I'm concerned the word bog should be stricken fem the lexicon of carburater tuning and relegated to describe something that happens after your morning coffee with bran muffin. Have  it your way. A bog would indicate a rich condition causing  a stumble and black smoke. A flat spot which is almost like the bike has died would be a lean condition. Backfiring when shutting off would indicate a lean pilot circuit. From what your saying it sounds to me like a pilot, fuel screw or ac pump issue. since the weather has turn colder and damper  air density will be higher requiring a need for more fuel.

Edited by widebear

Feels like lean condition, figure something to do with the accel pump/leak jet

Not sure whether your fcr has a leak jet, mine doesn't I'd start by going up one on the pilot and try a fine tune it with the fuel screw.

It does have a leak jet but it doesn't seem like anybody else has had an issue with the stock carb specs

Checked everything again today, all looks good, locked it at TDC checked cam marks and re checked the valve clearance. Going to change the plug and ride it again, looks like it's the stock plug

 

 

Is what your experiencing  bog or a flat spot? As far as I'm concerned the word bog should be stricken fem the lexicon of carburater tuning and relegated to describe something that happens after your morning coffee with bran muffin. Have  it your way. A bog would indicate a rich condition causing  a stumble and black smoke. A flat spot which is almost like the bike has died would be a lean condition. Backfiring when shutting off would indicate a lean pilot circuit. From what your saying it sounds to me like a pilot, fuel screw or ac pump issue. since the weather has turn colder and damper  air density will be higher requiring a need for more fuel.

 

 

Feels like lean condition, figure something to do with the accel pump/leak jet

 

 

Not sure whether your fcr has a leak jet, mine doesn't I'd start by going up one on the pilot and try a fine tune it with the fuel screw.

 

 

It does have a leak jet but it doesn't seem like anybody else has had an issue with the stock carb specs

 

 

 

 

Are you guys by chance riding buddies? 

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