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230 to 250cc, Coeshow or Engines Only?

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Hello all,

 

Looking for differences between Engines Only and Coeshow 250 setups.

 

Which is longer lasting? Which is better performing? Can anyone tell me a final price all said and done?

Which one would be more suitable for a plated CRF230F that gets put through tons of miles?

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Guy might want to chime in here with his experience with those 2 suppliers. What type of street use are you anticipating? They both seem to be pretty reliable dirt performers. I am running a couple of street 230s . One with a Webb cam, BBR 240 hi comp piston and 6 speed gear box while the other is running a Weisco hi comp 230 piston and BBR cam. thru a 5 speed. The Webb cammed 240 pulls stronger and seems to be more suited for longer 50-55 mph runs like commuting back and forth to work on surface streets while the other is great for short errands.  Both are very streetable but gearing for these conditions is critical. You want to be able to run with the traffic flow and still have some left to accelerate if needed. You don't want to run them wound too tight for long periods in traffic.  As tuff as these little motors are,  that has to be hard on them. The 6 speed is set up with 15/46 gearing The 5 speed is running 15/45 and could stand to drop a couple of teeth on the rear to overdrive it in top gear. I should mention, the 5 speed is running 17" supermoto wheels.  

Guy?

ST O.D.

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Well Steve, so you have both your toys up and running now. Congrats!

Would like to ride the both some time some day?

So both are street legal now?

As far as which company builds a more reliable product? That's a tough question as I do my own build ups from scratch myself. I purchase parts and mix and match for various reasons.

Not wanting to say any thing that can be harmful to either company I have seen the work of both company's. Both have great products, both go about doing basically the same thing, but do it there own way.

In my opinion, both are great at what they do.

A couple of examples, IMO:

I do like Coe Show pistons better than EO.

I like EO head gaskets better than Coe Show.

If you keep the engine oil changed and the air filters clean, either tuners parts will be very reliable for a long time.

As far as riding a CRF 230 on the street

This is my opinion only:

It would have to be electric start only.

I would not use more than 10 or 10.5 compression. Personally, if it was me, I would more than likely run 50% race fuel, because I would drive it harder than it should be driven.

I would not recommend any larger camshaft than an 89a. Heavy valve springs would be a must!

Stock rev box only.

30mm XR 250 carb with the cylinder head ported and matched to that carb.

Any exhaust system as long as it's reasonably quiet.

Your going to be spinning a lot of RPM

On the street for long periods so keep the valves adjusted.

Synthetic engine oil and keep it clean.

I like to gear my street bikes to just bairly reach redline in top gear when laying on the fuel tank with your left hand on the left fork tube (like the pros do when they race flat track mile bikes)

So if your sitting up right, it would not be able to reach red line.

But that just me...

So Steve, it sounds like your gearing is in the ball park and your comfortable with it?

Aren't these little bike the funniest bikes ever ????

The are in the top five of all time for me at least!

Hope this helps a little at least.

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Yes these things are fun...and head turners too. I have a couple of ratios I wanna try on the SM just to see if it loses too much low end but its working pretty good.. Cant beat the 6 speed gear box of the 230 for street though.

ST.O.D.

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Thanks for the replies. Good info.

 

My dirt use is completely gnarly difficult trails a lot of that... The only street use is the 40 minute freeway ride to the trails. I don't really care how it will perform on the freeway as long as it won't blow up on me... Which is why the EO 11:1 compression ratio scares me. As far as Coeshow, what is the compression ratio on one of those pistons?

The bike's current configuration is:
Web 89a camshaft
Wiseco standard bore piston
1996-2004 XR250R 30mm carb

Original rev limit
Original exhaust, restriction removed, spark arrestor intact.

Barnett clutch springs

 

It already hauls to my satisfaction, forks swapped and dialed in, rear-shock dialed in... But I feel that I can't call it complete until it is bored out. And maybe oversize valves? Maybe one of those new Clarke tanks too...
Maybe I'll never call it complete haha.

Anyway, I guess it will probably come down to whoever has the lower compression ratio, because out here in the desert heat is an issue with higher compression ratios.

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Freeway speeds are gonna be pushing it unless the 250 has that much more power over the 240. 55mph is about as fast as I like to run mine with top speed being about 64. The XR250 carb should help in that dept but 40mins of that could be stressing that little humming bird. I'd be afraid of getting run down by traffic.

ST.O.D.

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We'll just have to find out! I will wait until I have a vacation or something so I can have plenty of time to enjoy the tear down and rebuild. It'll be interesting to see how much wear the current piston and cylinder have, too. It has been through a lot over several years. Just keeps kicking. It is the one bike that has never left me or the group stuck at some point. All of our other bikes have had issues, especially anything 250cc. I hope this bike can be the exception to our 250cc curse once it is bored!

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Both tuners sell 250 kits in the 10 - 10.5 compression range.

You will have to split cases and have them bored larger to accept the larger sleeve that accepts the larger piston or:

Use the BBR piston kit for 10 more cc's without the extra work and expense...

The 250 kits are actually only 247 cc's

So the extra 14 cc's is a lot of expense!

But then again, " way to much"

power is barely adequate"

And:

"There is no replacement for displacement"

And the old standby:

"There is no substitute for cubic inches"

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Steve: IMO

You are still geared way to low!

I suggest that you gear your bike to turn 10,000 rpm at 75mph in sixth.

Port your cylinder head to use a 30mm XR 250 carb.

You should be able to cruise at 60 mph easy and if in a rush 65 would be no problem either.

Your bike should pull 75mph laying on the tank.

I road a bone stock Yamaha TW 200 to work almost everyday 8 miles each way

For 18 months By gearing it up 2 teeth in the front and 4 less in the rear.

How?

I bored the stock Carb out as large as possible, modified the stock muffler, opened up the air box with much larger pores in the foam. 65-70 every day on the freeway... And those bikes are TANKS! (Heavy)

LOL

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I purchase the 49st carb (non California)

from a 2004 XR 250 for my stuff.

At the minimum, you have to match the 230 intake manifold to the new carb and the intake port in the cylinder head

Even better to have the head ported to take maximum advantage of the larger carb.

IMO, I would order a new 230 manifold at the same time, (and a 250 clamp) that way you could use your stock 230 carb on your other bike (if you don't have oversize carb already)

But then, for your other bike, you will also need a 230 throttle assy, a pull cable, both clamps and the air filter boot that connects from the filter box to the carb. All OEM bolt on stuff!

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The 250 kits are actually only 247 cc's

So the extra 14 cc's is a lot of expense!

 

 

Since the Honda 230 is more like a 221, if its really 247, that is a 26cc increase, more than 10%

Still, its a fair amount of expense and hassle, or a pretty big amount of expense if you have someone like EnginesOnly do everything for you (I think $1200 plus Honda gaskets, etc).

 

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14cc larger than the BBR 233 cc bore in piston kit.

Stock is 223cc

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I did not notice that I was reviving a long dead thread. Sorry about that.

Since CoeShow seems to be out of business, the original thread topic can only be answered: EnginesOnly is still in business, CoeShow is not.

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