Decided to not race today and continue working on the 290. Getting a higher idle has been discussed a couple times so I dug in to see what we can do. First the choke knob is the idle adjustment. Turn it in lowers idle. Out raises. When you pull the choke out, this raises idle and works as a enrichener. But...not really. Since our bikes are efi we can physically manipulate air or throttle position. That is what we are doing with the choke and idle. Fuel is predetermined by setting in the ecu. If you notice, if you turn idle up (turn choke knob out) and pull outward on the choke knob- the pull or distance it moves is shorter than if you pulled knob at low idle setting. I took the idle knob out and when you turn it outward, you are 'opening' up a bypass circuit. The hot start is inline with this circuit, but has much larger effct. If you push hot start while bike is running you should notice idle rise. If it doesn't- there is an issue with the fuel/air mixture. Could be lean or rich. So.. to the point- idle cqn be raised past the 2400rpm setting by 2 methods. Adding tension to the hot start will allow idle to rise. I also tried a copper washer shimming the idle. I am notnsure which is better but both work. I felt better with the hot start tension. The copper washer shim wasn't as adjustable. Basically just opened choke port. Lastly, fuel/ air ratio has a major effect. If you modify the bike- pipe, high flow filter without screen, etc or even oxygenatedn fuel- it will change the air/fuel ratio. The bike cannot adjust to physical changes to the bike. Only to temperature and elevation. This is where a fuel controller will fix issues. Even a controller like the fmf or wiseco units may be all you need. The stock map is good..for a stock bike. Once a change is made past the oem fuel/ air ratio parameters- performance will suffer. I mentioned in another post I had a trick I was testing. I wanted to prove it before trying-it works! A 9 volt battery. By hooking a 9v battery to the power plug, this keeps the electronics charged. It is a common trick by quad guys for gncc starts. A 12v battery can also be used. I simply use a kill button and wired positive through it to battery plug. When starting bike, just press button, it send juice to epectronics and in one swift kick the bike will fire to life guaranteed. Isf in gear and you habe clutch drag this will really help. Not all kicks are equal with battery less efi. A slow or half kick will give a low voltage sine wave that will jot be enough to fire the iniector. Dobeck performance has a great video on utube demonstrating on a crf450. Fast full kick is necessary to give full power. With the battery we are supplying power that would be made in that kick- so we are just ading the electronics and priming pump. Hope this helps!