Air lock..Oil pump

K ,,Today I changed some clutch plates..When I got the cover off the small alloy part and O-ring  that fits between the case and pump had fallen into the inner case..Couldn't find the rubber..Replaced that with a spare O-ring from a kit. In the process I had to loosen the oil pump bolts and move the pump around a bit in the search for the lost rubber. Couldn't find it so reassembled and can't get flow through the oil line to head banjo bolt..just sputtering crap and in no way good enough. Used to be solid flow as soon as you cracked the top bolt..I need advice on getting flow back..I willl be using a compressor..Input required about where I hook the air too to get flow back..

Edited by Horri

I take the flexible oil return line off the frame and block it with a spark plug ceramic end. I put my pump on the frame inlet pipe and start pumping. Obviously keep the filler plug in place. Once pressure has built up crank it over with the stop switch on. Take the oil filter cover off to check that oil is going into the chamber.

K,,Will an XRXL600 sparkplug end fit reduceus,,Don't want to be messing around trying all different types,,I tried filling the filter area but that didn't achieve ba,,Flow for a bit then back to air sputtering..I can see why people seize these things..Minor work and no pumpage..Cranking it over may be difficult with the filter cover off,, cranky thing apart from the kicker..

Edited by Horri

I wonder if the oil pump itself is no longer working.  If you are able to get flow for a bit and then it starts to sputter then I would guess you arent air locked, not sure, but thats my logic.  ;)   I am going to assume that you have filled your bike with least close to the amount that you know should go back in.  So if the bike is "full" of oil then you shouldn't be pulling air once you get flow.  Let us know what you learn when you pressurize the system.

Think just about any plug - or even a bolt will fit in the flexible return  pipe that goes to the upper side of the frame - waste of time trying to fill the oil filter cavity - just try what I have suggested - always worked for me.



you can pressurise the oil tank by pulling the breather line off of the rocker cover and blowing air from your compressor in there in small bursts, this should help push oil into the pump.

Have heard it works with the E start bikes but may also help with the xr600.

Edited by burnie36

that seems like it would do the same

but I wouldn't use compressed air unless I had the regulator way down since the case shouldn't see any real PSI normally I would keep it very low   IMHO

you would be surprised at what even 5 psi can do



I would check the  screens also if it were mine

Edited by Zimman

I'll be trying to fix this today..Yes I will use low pressure..Yes I checked the screen in the engine,,Clean as a whistle..(Odd saying that as whistles aren't generally clean)..I will not be checking the rest as it is obvious this was caused by my moving the oil pump from it's bolted down position while looking for that rubber o-ring...Yes the bike is full of oil..If I hadn't been as anal as I am about checking the flow at the top banjo bolt my engine would now be history..What's happened here is a lesson to anyone who does engine work and doesn't check for oil flow at the top banjo after it..

Edited by Horri

When you pulled the oil pump...there is another alloy collar and o-ring behind it sealing the pump to the case,,did it fall out??????


I take a blowgun...wrap a rag arround the blow end and stuff it in the oil filler hole and give it bursts of air while cranking it over,,i`ve even done it while running the bike a few seconds,,a few seconds won`t hurt chit Reg...just leave the banjo bolt cracked loose,,start it,,hit it with air till you see oil spewin out the banjo bolt,,,done deal...



Brian said  """ When you pulled the oil pump...there is another alloy collar and o-ring behind it sealing the pump to the case,,did it fall out??????"""


Spppllllllluuuutteeerrr..You are kidding..what parts 21 and 7 in the below are they


TBH I never really removed the pump..Undid and removed the bolts and sort of moved it out a bit..I couldn't get it all the way out as theirs a steel hose that runs from the pump to behind the clutch and I didn't really want to get into removing the entire clutch. I gave up looking for the o-ring then and rebolted things up. Guess I may have to go back in for further work..I got oil flowing to the top by pressurising the main frame tank but to be honest it didn't seem to be as good flow when I've previously cracked the top banjo..I test rode it earlier and things seem fine but I guess if I want peace of mind I'll have to go into the clutch side again in the morning..Thanks for spotting this maybe issue Brian,,


Part 13s the pipe,,Wonder if I can get it off without removing the clutch..I could only see the pump end the other seemed to be behind the clutch no spanner acess..That Clutch nut is hell tight and I really don't want to deal with it if at all possible,,No airgun so it's the brute strength and huge breaker bar to get it loose.

Edited by Horri

Which way does that Clutch nut come off Brian,,???Clockwise or anti clock..I don't have my manuals so I'm flying kinda blind with it..Last time I tried to shift it a week or so back I gave up as I wasn't sure whether I was tightening it or loosening it..


Just checked my pdf mention of clock or anti clock...anyone know for sure??


Looking at the pdf manual looks like the entire cluch will need to come out to access the other end of that pipe from the oil pump..bugger. :banghead:


This is what happens when you try and do things on the cheap,,ie leaning the bike way over to the left so the oil won't come out. Trouble is when you do that and remove the clutch cover the small alloy collar and o-ring can fall into the gearbox/clutch side and things get messy..I should have just drained the oil and done it with the bike upright,,now I'm suffering the consequences of cheapness. :smashpc:


The only good news here is the Clutch is no longer slipping though for some reason I have more length left on the actual cable than before I started.,,ie I have less ability to use the actuating arm cable to adjust things. Not sure what's gone on there as both sides have the little cups on the clutch rod so I have no idea why I've ended up with less adjustment on the cable..Even measured both sets of plates and the new were easily thicker than the old when measured in a block together.

Edited by Horri

My XL6 had right hand threads, right to tight, left to loosen.



In the above exploded view you didn't damage #19? 



Counter clockwise sir. And dont forget Brians penny trick. Im sending you positive vibes. I just started mine today after a rebuild. It was pretty dark, i had flashlight light. Definitely had oil coming out both bolts but i wanted a big mess and didnt get one. So im gonna recheck tomorrow. Good luck!

Na..19s fine,,the other end of that pipes the issue if I want to check what Brians on about.


So undo it by using the socket and bar and going towards the right or front of the bike or towards the left or rear of the bike..There can only be one answer..Which is it guys??


Let me put it another way..I am a very small person and am standing looking at the face of the clutch basket..Which way do I go with my socket and breaker bar to undo the large nut..left or right..And no Eric I have the basket holding tool so won't be needing any pennies this time hopefully..


And yes Eric you want a big mess coming from the top banjo. A slight cracking of it prior to this issue used to have oil running everywhere down the side of the motor on my bike..Not so much now and seems a bit intermittent..

Edited by Horri

From front of bike towards the rear. From 3 oclock to 12 oclock to 9 oclockCAM00172.jpg

Here ya go!


2011-10-17 (16).jpg



Ok...I think I have it..towards the rear..Difficult to get a straight answer from you characters.. :rolleyes:

Ok...I think I have it..towards the rear..Difficult to get a straight answer from you characters.. :rolleyes:

A picture is worth a thousand words... Hope you figure it out...



Horri - very sorry, meant the breather pipe that comes from top of engine to side of frame - what a prune I am.

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