Usability of a kickstart?!?

Hi all,

 

Ive been looking at getting the kickstart for the drz because my battery is not the best, especially in the cold and i would like the added reliability.

 

My question is that i have an '02 S model and was curious if it would still be effective.  I'm pretty sure that only the E model can use the manual decomp lever due to different machining on the head (or lack there of).

 

So without the manual decomp lever how hard would it be to kick start the Drz?

There still is the autodecomp on the exhaust cam.

so it shouldn't be too hard to kick over?  And what is the point of the manual decomp lever when there is the autodecomp?

so it shouldn't be too hard to kick over?  And what is the point of the manual decomp lever when there is the autodecomp?

its not that hard for me. you just have to kick it good once usually and have the jetting pretty well set up. i can usually start mine one kick and im not that big...

so it shouldn't be too hard to kick over? And what is the point of the manual decomp lever when there is the autodecomp?

Because the early E models didn't have the autodecomp, only the manual decomp

its not that hard for me. you just have to kick it good once usually and have the jetting pretty well set up. i can usually start mine one kick and im not that big...

Ok good to know! i know that the one bought from the TT store comes with an instalation manual, how much of a pain is it to install?

 

Because the early E models didn't have the autodecomp, only the manual decomp

Cool, thanks for the info, that little bit has always confused me

I dont think its 'hard' to kick it? Unless your abit of a **** , i dont think the stock battery has enough power to turn it over though

Removed decomp on kick model here...At first it seemed bone crushing hard, but after finding the right procedure, it is just as simple as before, just have to get it to TDC first or it will lock 

Because the early E models didn't have the autodecomp, only the manual decomp

 

A couple years ago I learned from Eddie that ALL DRZ have the auto decomp on the cam. The kick has the manual decomp as well as the auto decomp.

 

link

A couple years ago I learned from Eddie that ALL DRZ have the auto decomp on the cam. The kick has the manual decomp as well as the auto decomp.

link

Hmm good to know, I stand corrected.

Ok good to know! i know that the one bought from the TT store comes with an instalation manual, how much of a pain is it to install?

 

Cool, thanks for the info, that little bit has always confused me

i actually had eddie do mine. but i found a walkthrough online and it doesnt seem too hard...

 

http://mr-cob.smugmug.com/gallery/136763#!i=5019489&k=Dfwff6W

I dont think its 'hard' to kick it? Unless your abit of a **** , i dont think the stock battery has enough power to turn it over though

:lol:  in that case im in trouble. hahahaha kidding, at 6"2' im able to hold my own pretty good.

 

Removed decomp on kick model here...At first it seemed bone crushing hard, but after finding the right procedure, it is just as simple as before, just have to get it to TDC first or it will lock 

So i know that TDC stands for top dead center (at least i think thats what it means :thinking:) but i have no clue how to find it, any suggestions?? is it something you do while your installing the kit? or something you do before each time you kick it over?

Edited by Rolling2

:lol:  in that case im in trouble. hahahaha kidding, at 6"2' im able to hold my own pretty good.

 

So i know that TDC stands for top dead center (at least i think thats what it means :thinking:) but i have no clue how to find it, any suggestions?? is it something you do while your installing the kit? or something you do before each time you kick it over?

When resting my foot on the kick lever, it will have hard compression, making it next to impossible to kick. If I leave it there with some pressure, it eventually will give gently and roll part way through the cycle. When after it does the cycle, I can press again on it, and if it doenst have the same hardcore pressure, kick it like a normal bike and it revs right up. It is kind of a muscle memory thing, hard to describe now that I am trying to teach it. Hope this helps...it seems goofy just reading it, but for what its worth, not having the decomp fail inside the motor, an extra second or two during the kicking processess is priceless for me.

Thanks for all the fast replies and helpful tips!  Just put one on order and will let you guys know how installation goes when the kit arrives, cause knowing me i will probably need advice then also!

When resting my foot on the kick lever, it will have hard compression, making it next to impossible to kick. If I leave it there with some pressure, it eventually will give gently and roll part way through the cycle. When after it does the cycle, I can press again on it, and if it doenst have the same hardcore pressure, kick it like a normal bike and it revs right up. It is kind of a muscle memory thing, hard to describe now that I am trying to teach it. Hope this helps...it seems goofy just reading it, but for what its worth, not having the decomp fail inside the motor, an extra second or two during the kicking processess is priceless for me.

I lean over the bike from the left side and push firmly on the kicker with my right hand and keep pressure on it until you feel it finish compression (usually 5 to 10 seconds or so) and the lever just starts to move easy, then switch to the right foot and kick it through.  I removed my exhaust cam decomp because it was getting noisy and I have the stock S carb and JD jet kit and I've found it will almost start on the first kick every time if I hold just a tiny tiny bit of throttle when I kick it.  I pretty much exclusively kick it now in the cold weather.

 

I quit using my foot to ease it through because I found that standing on the bike doing this and then kicking it I was slowly bending my kickstand tab outwards.  When I kick it now it is still on the stand but I don't get on the peg, left foot on ground, right foot over bike kicking, haven't bent the kickstand tab since.

Edited by subeng

Thanks for all the fast replies and helpful tips!  Just put one on order and will let you guys know how installation goes when the kit arrives, cause knowing me i will probably need advice then also!

Fit the manual decomp if you can , it makes finding TDC easier .

Just pull in the lever , kick it through, find TDC .. push on the kicker a little , let the kickstart return to the top . Then give it a firm kick , no throttle .

It will start every time , on a correctly jetted DRZ

Are you kidding? Buy a good battery. You will need one anyway


 


 


Fit the manual decomp if you can , it makes finding TDC easier .

Just pull in the lever , kick it through, find TDC .. push on the kicker a little , let the kickstart return to the top . Then give it a firm kick , no throttle .

It will start every time , on a correctly jetted DRZ

Is there any way to Fit the manual decamp on s and sm models? i thought the head was machined in such a way that it wouldn't work.  that said i also haven't really looked at it very closely. Is there a way to make it work with some at home finagling??

Unfortunately , no .. Machining the head is the only way .

Anyway , if you fit the Kick start kit .. Push on the kickstart until you find TDC . Push just past TDC , let the kick start return to the top . Give a good firm kick , no throttle . Make sure your idle is set correctly .

When resting my foot on the kick lever, it will have hard compression, making it next to impossible to kick. If I leave it there with some pressure, it eventually will give gently and roll part way through the cycle. When after it does the cycle, I can press again on it, and if it doenst have the same hardcore pressure, kick it like a normal bike and it revs right up. It is kind of a muscle memory thing, hard to describe now that I am trying to teach it. Hope this helps...it seems goofy just reading it, but for what its worth, not having the decomp fail inside the motor, an extra second or two during the kicking processess is priceless for me.

Something else to add to the above as a teaching aide is to remove the valve cover and do the above without turning on the ignition. When you think it's reached TDC look at the valves and see if they're in the TDC position. Do this until you get the "right feel" put the cover back on and start er up with an 'easy kick'.

 

Tony

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