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Anyone Revalving a Lyrik MTB Fork?

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I would post this on a mtn bike forum but the people on those forums are not typically doing this sort of thing.  I know that if people on here ride mtn bikes they are into the suspension.  I am about to tear into mine.

 

So has anybody modified a Lyrik DH mission control fork?  What are the stock shim stacks and what have you done?

 

I have taken the mid valve apart but not the compression assembly.  From my general study of the set up, it looks like the compression stack, on the base valve, depends on an adjustable preloaded shim (maybe not a stack) for HS compression (this is really the type of set up I have tried to stay away from on dirtbikes)  Base also has adjustable LS compression bleed and check plate for rebound direction.  Mid has a check plate, made of plastic on compression direction.  Mid rebound consistent of 1 shim and bleed adjustment.

 

I would like to stiffen up the rebound.  I run a X-firm spring.  With a set up that is close with only one shim, it seems like there would be no way to add in a 2 stage stack.  On the compression side of things, I would like to soften up LS/mid speed while retaining bottom resistance.  If I could gain ability to tune internally, I would gladly give up the external HS comp preload adjust. 

 

Anyone doing any of this?

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Have you looked at this thread?  http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/tune-your-mission-control-high-speed-shim-stack-how-guide-pics-541403.html 

 

For the rebound I don't think you really need to run a two stage stack.  I'd just add shims to the stock rebound setup until you get the high speed rebound you're looking for.  For bottoming control on this fork you'll want to adjust oil levels.

Edited by kan3

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I wouldn't even waste the time trying to tune that fork.  I rebuild and tune a ton of MTB suspension, and I deliberately do not touch the RS stuff, for a variety of reasons.

 

One big reason is, they fail structurally, a lot, and I don't need to be involved with that in any way.

 

Second reason is, no matter how good your rebuild is, their diameter tolerances suck so much, you'll never get decent smooth action out of those forks because things are so bound up.

 

Third reason is, their seals are beyond terrible, and a "rebuild" is a waste of the customers money/beer/time for the most part.

 

 

If you want a good deal on a Manitou, Marzocchi, or X-Fusion equivalent that will offer you some better action, and some more internal tune-ability for a higher springrate, PM me.  In particular, I'd suggest the X-Fusion Vengeance fork.

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