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How to start faster

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Ok so i raced the 350 sxf last weekend for the first time and thanks for the advise on gas i made it the whole race but if it was any further i never would of made it. Since it is estart only i am wondering what i can do to make it fire off quicker because its a ton slower then what i can kick. So if anyone is in the same place please let me know how you fixed it? 

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Get the user setting tool and add +5 more fuel to idle.

Edited by steve841

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Get the user setting tool and add +5 more fuel to idle.

ok i will look into that. as u can c its fairly slow
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I've bumped my idle up a lil. The other thing I do is give the start a "blip" first. You can hear the fuel pump run then stop. I treat this as a kind of primer, and find my bike seems to start quicker. (13 450sxf)

You can do the same by bumping the rear wheel while it's in gear if your scared of "blipping"

Hope it helps!

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I've bumped my idle up a lil. The other thing I do is give the start a "blip" first. You can hear the fuel pump run then stop. I treat this as a kind of primer, and find my bike seems to start quicker. (13 450sxf)

You can do the same by bumping the rear wheel while it's in gear if your scared of "blipping"

Hope it helps!

yeah i will probably try that instead ok hitting it and taking the chance of it starting and having to shut down then start back which be slower

I also run my idle high so it keeps pulling so im not using the clutch as much

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Unfortunately that's the down side of electric start. When I started racing my 500exc I gave up on trying to get any sort of decent start. They just don't spin over fast enough....

The 1 other thing I would practice is being quicker in general. I don't know how the starts are done where you race but for us it can be anything from hands on your helmet, to removing one boot, to front tire against a log, to hands on your rear fender standing beside your bike...... I just practice watching the flagger more closely, and reacting quicker into a starting position. Bike setup can help too. I actually move my start button to the left side of my bars so I can grab a handful of throttle while hitting the button with my left thumb (Rekluse).....Even pushing your bike slightly ahead while starting can give you an edge....

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Unfortunately that's the down side of electric start. When I started racing my 500exc I gave up on trying to get any sort of decent start. They just don't spin over fast enough....

The 1 other thing I would practice is being quicker in general. I don't know how the starts are done where you race but for us it can be anything from hands on your helmet, to removing one boot, to front tire against a log, to hands on your rear fender standing beside your bike...... I just practice watching the flagger more closely, and reacting quicker into a starting position. Bike setup can help too. I actually move my start button to the left side of my bars so I can grab a handful of throttle while hitting the button with my left thumb (Rekluse).....Even pushing your bike slightly ahead while starting can give you an edge....

yeah thats for sure a down fall im used the the 2t were i get most holeshots i guess im just going to just have to hope i can get around in the woods. Here our starts they give a 10 sec warning then raise the flag. Like this weekend i started with my clutch in finger on the estart and my foot on the shift so i could slap it in gear right after it started

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Mine fires almost instantly , I have a li batt

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work up by 2% at a time. Thats all i needed to get my bike to start up properly and not flirt with starting. It tempted me to twisting the throttle, and if i did it would backfire and die.

 

Akro exhaust and full flow twin air filter. Removed the backfire screen and spark arrestor in the muffler...Waiting for the temp to stay below 75 before i tune again...

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I just raised my idle a tiny bit and put in a higher amp battery. It actually does the trick well and when I stall, it only takes one tap to get it going again.

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I just raised my idle a tiny bit and put in a higher amp battery. It actually does the trick well and when I stall, it only takes one tap to get it going again.

Mine fires almost instantly , I have a li batt

May I ask what size batts you're running and if you've saved much weight?

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May I ask what size batts you're running and if you've saved much weight?

Actually, the Antigravity battery I run has more amps then the stock one. I was told that the stock battery had issues turning over the motor when it was hot. So I got a 250amp lithium battery. It literally feels like a toy, like it was made with lego's or something. The stock battery was a brick, literally felt like it was made of lead... wait a sec, it was! HA! Anyway, yea, I believe the difference in weight was 4lb or something silly like that.

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Like tye said they are significantly lighter ,same weight saving as a full ti pipe , not sure on the amps but li battery gets more powerful when under load( worked hard) so its a much better option

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the pro gncc guys on ktm's turn the engine over to just after tdc on power stroke. when you hit button it turns over once and will fire because the crank speed is up high enough after the two revolutions with no compression to push agaist. they also run a lithium high output battery for more cranking speed. but the trick is to get piston and crank in proper position to crank over a full two revolutions and it will fire on first power stroke. you can turn with a wrench at the line, take off the timing plug and turn just past compression stroke then try it. it will fire instantly.

 

I dont care enough or am fast enough to need to do that. in a two or three hour race you can make up seconds lost cranking your bike. if you cant then getting the hole shot will just be holding up everyone else.

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What I do for dead engine starts is blip the e-start button (to make the fuel pump cycle), then have the bike in neutral with the clutch pulled in with my foot right on top of the shifter to shift down once it fires up.  It usually fires right away.

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You want to do something like this... Forward to the 2:05 mark...     Don't watch the rest lol, swapped front fork springs from .52 to .50 and it was wayyyyy too soft. bad decision..

 

 

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work up by 2% at a time. Thats all i needed to get my bike to start up properly and not flirt with starting. It tempted me to twisting the throttle, and if i did it would backfire and die.

 

Akro exhaust and full flow twin air filter. Removed the backfire screen and spark arrestor in the muffler...Waiting for the temp to stay below 75 before i tune again...

what do you mean work up by 2% at a time

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When you increase the fuel with the ktm tool you just increase it 2% at a time as not to add too much fuel

Still confused. Where does this KTM tool come from and what is it?

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Gas gasser you need this tool

 

http://www.ktm-parts.com/69029096140.html

 

Once you have this, then you can program your ecu.

 

However, if you dont feel like payin that much you can buy JD jetting or Bazzaz ecu piggy backs and program those to work with your ECU.

 

I received the UST free with my bike, so i have no reason to buy a piggy back...

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