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Break in with flywheel weight?

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I would say it would cause NO problem at all.  In fact, it may result in higher average cylinder pressure during the break-in time and give you a better and quicker ring break-in.

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hard break in is the way to go. Read your article thoroughly as you need to do about 2 heat cycles before you really give the old girl hell.

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I've used the "hard" method EXCEPT for the first couple of minutes. It's when the friction is the highest with the new rings and honed cylinder.  It's going to be the most likely to overheat (probably rings) and cause galling.  Beyond that first couple of minutes, there doesn't seem to be a problem to the hard method.  This is a great way to start a debate (argument?) about the best break-in method!

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This is a great way to start a debate (argument?) about the best break-in method!

I'm out on this debate. this was debated on all forums about 10 years ago and the hard break in won the argument.

A tuner that i had a lot of respect for (who hasn't been on TT for a very long time, now) had some numbers for comparison of the hard vs. easy break in method. He'd do a leak down cylinder compression test after break in, which was usually at the 5 hr mark (if memory serves). He'd rebuild the engine again if he got greater than a 5% loss. the hard break in usually yielded around a 2% loss, and the easy break in was always higher...sometimes up to 10% loss.

A few years ago when i needed to rebuild my big block boat engine, I did the hard break in. At the 30 hr mark I did a leakdown test and the worst cylinder was 5%! That's good #'s for a BB Chevy. I was proud!!!!!

Edited by oldnbold

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Quick summary on my experiences: Break in hard without riding rev limiter, let cool down, ride and repeat even longer and harder. With or without my Steahly flywheel or GYTR.

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