2012 CRF250R Dead engine starts.

I race HS/GP's that require dead engine starts. Starting in gear is futile. I'm tired of being in the bottom third of the pack by the first turn. I've tried everything in the book but never can get a good solid kick in race conditions (nerves) to get it to fire in gear. 

 

Any modifcations (remapping, ignition, spark plug) suggestions?

 

Thanks! John. 

I race HS/GP's that require dead engine starts. Starting in gear is futile. I'm tired of being in the bottom third of the pack by the first turn. I've tried everything in the book but never can get a good solid kick in race conditions (nerves) to get it to fire in gear.

Any modifcations (remapping, ignition, spark plug) suggestions?

Thanks! John.

I ride a 13 and race hare scrambles and I have the same problem. The damn thing starts first gear every time except on the line. I'd really like a faster and more efficient way to start and take off. I posted a thread on this a while back. I think I might try a remap. I was planning on getting a slip-on so I will.need it anyways. Some people say it's the clutch plates which is possible too. I've tried the whole rock it back and forth with the clutch in to loosen the plates and kick at top dead center. Thats less than 50% effective in nuetral. I'd really love to get out front with the electric start Ktm's. I was pulling holeshots on motocross style starts so it's not just me this time. ;) I am going to be discussing this with a local mechanic within the next week and I'll post what I find out. I've spent hours on just dead engine starts practicing all the time. Once I'm in the back third like you mention, I get stuck behind shit riders who crash on single trail and get stuck behind bottlenecks, then when as I try to pass on uphills etc., they freaking stop so I lose my balance, tip over and waste energy because of it. I should honestly be placing top 10-15....not 20's. And if my starts were better and I got passed the shit C class guys I believe I could get top 5 even at certain tracks. Very interested in this thread. No point getting any mods to make the bike faster if something could help the bike start better. Even after a tip over into the race. 16-20 kicks on a new bike is ridiculous.

I have a trick:

Hook a small 12+V battery pack (like the AA units around, but anything small is good) behind your front # plate & up to a push-button (SPST) momentary contact switch that's wired into your wiring harness, typically into the Condensor or Reg/Rect harness. When the bike is off and you press that button you start and prime the EFI pump and start the ECU "thinking" so when you kick all your energy goes to "good use" vs just charging the Condensor to then start the pump turning to build 50psi fuel pressure, etc. Makes a HUGE difference in starting these bikes. Just don't confuse any switch you mount with your kill switch as it won't kill the motor, but won't do any harm either. A battery that is easily removable for recharging is best and small is good as you'll only use it a few times a day for very short bursts. Likewise you can just wire in a small lightweight AGM battery somewhere with a rocker and use the rocker just to get started, then turn the rocker off once going. If you leave the rocker on you'll just charge the battery. There's a few 1lb batteries out there.

Edited by Eddie8v

I have a trick:Hook a small 12+V battery pack (like the AA units around, but anything small is good) behind your front # plate & up to a push-button (SPST) momentary contact switch that's wired into your wiring harness, typically into the Condensor or Reg/Rect harness. When the bike is off and you press that button you start and prime the EFI pump and start the ECU "thinking" so when you kick all your energy goes to "good use" vs just charging the Condensor to then start the pump turning to build 50psi fuel pressure, etc. Makes a HUGE difference in starting these bikes. Just don't confuse any switch you mount with your kill switch as it won't kill the motor, but won't do any harm either. A battery that is easily removable for recharging is best and small is good as you'll only use it a few times a day for very short bursts. Likewise you can just wire in a small lightweight AGM battery somewhere with a rocker and use the rocker just to get started, then turn the rocker off once going. If you leave the rocker on you'll just charge the battery. There's a few 1lb batteries out there.

solid mod right there. These efi bikes can take a couple kicks to charge the capacitor

Get electric start

Not sure I understand it ecactly. If it would take 3 kicks to do the same thing that this button does, why does it take 16-20 kicks still on a hot engine?

It should never take 16-20 kicks to start an EFI bike, or any CRF really... You likely have something amiss. The battery-assisted method makes it much easier to start the bike on the 1st kick.

Hot, I can one kick it no problem in neutral 9/10 times. A13 somethings not right bub.

Itll start on the line when i start it with the other classes that go before me but on the kick when i start, I cant get it to start

Probably takes that many because I try to start it when I'm not in nuetral, but all my carbed bikes would start first kick in 1st-5th or in nuetral no problem. Is it an EFI thing?

No I don't think its a efi thing because my 2008 carb 250r doesn't like to start in gear so I just chuck it in neutral

No I don't think its a efi thing because my 2008 carb 250r doesn't like to start in gear so I just chuck it in neutral

So it sounds like the clutch plates...maybe? Would aftermarket help?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now