Kicker Battery / Vapor Wiring

[SierraSmoker]

So almost done with my conversion to street legal...  Used the TUSK kit for lights and everything.  Now I know you can just recharge the battery tusk gives you, but how long will it hold a charge for?  Can it be wired to the existing 12 V system?  How?

 

Main question.  Just ordered a trail tech vapor.  Everything seems straight forward except for the wiring to power.  Where do I tap in?  How do I tap in.  Seems noob but electrical is out of my league and would love to learn...

 

Thanks in advance

[Noble]

Is the battery with the Tusk kit rechargeable?  If so, it can replace the capacitor or it can be wired parallel with the capacitor.  (Pos to Pos, Neg to Neg)

 

With a battery, you will need a switch of some kind to turn off the power to lights and ignition.  Does the Tusk kit have an ignition switch?  is it on the power wire or the kill wire.  (different switch depending on where it is in the circuit).

 

The TrailTech Vapor is best wired so it has battery power all the time. (it turns itself off).  Where you connect it is up to you.  I don't know where you have power leads and switches.

 

Can you post a wire diagram of the Tusk kit, or post a link to on-line instructions?

[SierraSmoker]

Is the battery with the Tusk kit rechargeable? If so, it can replace the capacitor or it can be wired parallel with the capacitor. (Pos to Pos, Neg to Neg)

With a battery, you will need a switch of some kind to turn off the power to lights and ignition. Does the Tusk kit have an ignition switch? is it on the power wire or the kill wire. (different switch depending on where it is in the circuit).

The TrailTech Vapor is best wired so it has battery power all the time. (it turns itself off). Where you connect it is up to you. I don't know where you have power leads and switches.

Can you post a wire diagram of the Tusk kit, or post a link to on-line instructions?

The tusk kit is basically a stand alone system. It has an on/off switch that is wired to the wiring harness that everything plugs in to. It doesn't go into the bikes wiring harness at all. Edited October 31, 2013 by SierraSmoker

[Noble]

OK but I still need to see a diagram.

[SierraSmoker]

OK but I still need to see a diagram.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/docs/wire%20diagram.pdf

[shift1313]

The trailtech can run off a watch battery. Only difference is that the backlight will be 1/10 power.

[SierraSmoker]

The trailtech can run off a watch battery. Only difference is that the backlight will be 1/10 power.

I know this. I just want to know how to run it to the drz stator

[shift1313]

I don't know for sure but I didn't think the kicker stator had any windings other than for the ignition. Hopefully someone with a kicker can chime in.

[SierraSmoker]

I don't know for sure but I didn't think the kicker stator had any windings other than for the ignition. Hopefully someone with a kicker can chime in.

Well it powers the light, and apparently is 150watts. That's gotta power the trail tech and a headlight.

Anyone? Wiring to the stator?

[shift1313]

you can't wire it right to the stator because it has AC output.  if it really is 150watt output that should be fine but probably wont do much to charge your battery.  I have a 200watt in my S model which i believe is more than stock(180 stock maybe).  50watt is for the ignition i believe so you effectively have 100watt output.  if you are running a 55watt headlight subtract that out.  if you are running LED tail, blinkers etc etc.  After you add all that up there probably isn't much left to actually charge the battery but it should be more than nothing.

 

regardless you need to wire after the signal is turned to a 12vdc output.  Best to come off the battery or an ignition or on/off switch.  The reg/rec needs to take the AC output and convert and condition it.  From there it goes to the capacitor on the kick model or battery on an S model through the main fuse.  Another post mentioned how to wire the battery into this system and to just wire the gauge to the battery since it auto shuts off after 30s or so.

 

Since your system is completely isolated from the stock setup are you not intending on charging the battery?  If you wire the battery into the system and there is an on/off switch somewhere just wire your gauge to that.  the trailtech draws very little power.

[Noble]

OK I went to Rocky Mountain ATV. You have Tusk dual sport kit 1285760002 for KTM or other right?

 

First to clarify some of the above.  Yes you have 150 watts of DC power with rectifier/regulator that will charge a battery. 150 is plenty of power, no problem.  The problem is adding a battery to the DRZ electrical system and integrating it into the Tusk system.

 

The original DRZ system uses a capacitor to stabilize the DC electrical system.  The original system has no fuse and no off switch because no power when the motor is not running.  The electrical system powers the ignition, headlight and tail light. So you need to keep at least part of the original system and wiring.

 

The Tusk kit is primarily intended to interface with a KTM that came with a battery (although the KTM does not produce enough DC power to charge the battery and run lights. But KTM runs the lights on AC so the battery is not powering everything) Anyway it is not straight forward to marry the Tusk kit to a DRZ kicker but it can be done.

 

When Tusk talks about adding a battery they assume the motorcycle has no provision to charge the battery.  The battery will power the lights as a total loss system and will need periodic recharge from a battery charger.  You do have the capability for the motorcycle to charge the battery.

 

What is the battery you have with the kit?  Brand and part number.

 

Do you actually want a battery?   

 

Does your state licensing equipment requirements require the lights to operate with the motor off? If not, you can probably use the Tusk kit with no battery.

 

Do you have a way to mount the battery?

 

Answer the above and I will go from there.

[SierraSmoker]

OK I went to Rocky Mountain ATV. You have Tusk dual sport kit 1285760002 for KTM or other right?

First to clarify some of the above. Yes you have 150 watts of DC power with rectifier/regulator that will charge a battery. 150 is plenty of power, no problem. The problem is adding a battery to the DRZ electrical system and integrating it into the Tusk system.

The original DRZ system uses a capacitor to stabilize the DC electrical system. The original system has no fuse and no off switch because no power when the motor is not running. The electrical system powers the ignition, headlight and tail light. So you need to keep at least part of the original system and wiring.

The Tusk kit is primarily intended to interface with a KTM that came with a battery (although the KTM does not produce enough DC power to charge the battery and run lights. But KTM runs the lights on AC so the battery is not powering everything) Anyway it is not straight forward to marry the Tusk kit to a DRZ kicker but it can be done.

When Tusk talks about adding a battery they assume the motorcycle has no provision to charge the battery. The battery will power the lights as a total loss system and will need periodic recharge from a battery charger. You do have the capability for the motorcycle to charge the battery.

What is the battery you have with the kit? Brand and part number.

Do you actually want a battery?

Does your state licensing equipment requirements require the lights to operate with the motor off? If not, you can probably use the Tusk kit with no battery.

Do you have a way to mount the battery?

Answer the above and I will go from there.

Well let's just forget about the battery then... Seems like huge hassle. It's just an 8 cell nicad pack...

Everything aside, can I just wire the trail tech to the stator?

[Noble]

OK then - no battery.

 

Find the capacitor on the DRZ.  It will have 1 orange wire and 1 black with white stripe wire.  Orange is POS.  Black/with white is NEG. Pretend the capacitor is the battery Tusk talks about.  Simply connect the Tusk yellow NEG wire to any DRZ black with white stripe wire and connect the Tusk red POS wire to any DRZ orange wire.  Mount and connect the rest of the kit - horn, tail/brake light, stop light switch, control switch, signal lights and you are done.  The Tusk kit has you use the original head light.  If you want a dual beam light, you can add that and wire it thru the Tuck control switch. There are 3 unused wires in the control switch for the headlight. Simply connect the DRZ orange wire from the headlight to the Tusk control switch following the Tusk directions.

[Noble]

TrailTech - wire to any DRZ orange wire and any DRZ black with white stripe wire.  When the motor is running the TrailTech will be on motorcycle power.  When the motor is not  running the TrailTech will be on internal power.  It will automatically switch power sources and automatically turn itself on and off.

[SierraSmoker]

OK then - no battery.

 

Find the capacitor on the DRZ.  It will have 1 orange wire and 1 black with white stripe wire.  Orange is POS.  Black/with white is NEG. Pretend the capacitor is the battery Tusk talks about.  Simply connect the Tusk yellow NEG wire to any DRZ black with white stripe wire and connect the Tusk red POS wire to any DRZ orange wire.  Mount and connect the rest of the kit - horn, tail/brake light, stop light switch, control switch, signal lights and you are done.  The Tusk kit has you use the original head light.  If you want a dual beam light, you can add that and wire it thru the Tuck control switch. There are 3 unused wires in the control switch for the headlight. Simply connect the DRZ orange wire from the headlight to the Tusk control switch following the Tusk directions.

 

 

Killer!  Thanks so much man, just needed a simple answer like that.  So no regulator needed?

[Noble]

You have a regulator.  Regulator/Rectifier (RR) is part of the DRZ electrical system.  

 

The DRZ400 kicker will charge a battery.  Just replace the capacitor with a battery but I would not use a NiCad and I would not add a battery if I did not need one.  Adding a battery would require another on/off switch and fuse.  The benefit of a battery is the lights will run with the motor not running and the lights will be brighter at idle.

 

I would just keep it simple and see how it works.

 

Oh yea, with no battery you do not need the Tusk on/off switch.  You can instal the switch and just leave it on. Or not install it and just hook the 2 wires together.