Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Can someone explain the Rapture Airbox mod?

Recommended Posts

I think I missed the Rapture Airbox mods. Could someone please explain what it consists of? I tried a search but couldn't find something. Thanks in advance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do a search on "Airbox Mod" (do a three month search) scroll down to The Rapture and there are pictures!! Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great, thanks a lot. Are these mods really noticeable?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OOOOH yes, very much so. The only drawback is if you ride in wet conditions. When the vents are removed and the back of the airbox is cut, there is a greater potential for sucking water into the carb. How much potential is debatable in my opinion. I ride here in cali where it is dry for the most part so this is not a factor for me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I missed the Rapture Airbox mods. Could someone please explain what it consists of? I tried a search but couldn't find something. Thanks in advance.

Actually, it's the FFRacing779 airbox mod. His dyno testing is what prompted me to do it, if he says it works, it does. He does this for a living after all :)

It WILL cause the filter to get dirtier sooner, but I clean my filter after every day of riding, so no big deal for me anyway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I missed the Rapture Airbox mods. Could someone please explain what it consists of? I tried a search but couldn't find something. Thanks in advance.

Here ya go:

airbox%20001.jpg

airbox%20002.jpg

airbox%20003.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did it in one clean cut with a new razor blade.It looks factory done ,no backfire screen too :).

James :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did it in one clean cut with a new razor blade.It looks factory done ,no backfire screen too :).

James :D

Pooo!!! :)All I had was a hacksaw blade! I need to clean it up one day...but heck, it's under the seat, hidden, so who knows... :D

I been running w/o the screen since...well...a long time ago.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did mine on the bike with a sharp blade, would you like to see pictures?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did mine on the bike with a sharp blade, would you like to see pictures?

Yep! As long as the pics don't have more of your avatar in them :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will do this mod but I'm worried about removing the backfire screen. Do you notice it if you only do the mod?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quote:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Did mine on the bike with a sharp blade, would you like to see pictures?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yep! As long as the pics don't have more of your avatar in them

Sorry about the blur.

fa051753.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Flois don't worry about the screen. If you want you can do the airbox mod leave the screen in and take some laps. Then put it back in and take some laps. Then you decide. The screen comes out easy and will go back in if you want!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The screen comes out easy and will go back in if you want!

Bent the crap out of mine so I wouldn't put it back in! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will clean mine up as I go back together with it tonight and tomorrow

Will take multiple passes to cut. Make the first pass with the blade light and accurate. Then apply more pressure as the cut get deeper. Should take about 5 minutes for the total job.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you guys doing the mod to the box with the stock air filter? IMO, Twin or better yet, UNI has better air flow than stock, to the point were the air(2-stroke) or fuel(4-stroke) screw adjustments are needed when used. We ride in mud about 1/3 of the time so openning up the box is a risky thing to do. In the 70's and early 80's we used to cut 1" holes in the air box and screen them for better air flow. I sucked up so much mud on one race that I had about 1/2 mm of dried up mud on the top of the piston, as it rattled in the cylinder. It was a good reason for rebore and oversize.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually, it's the FFRacing779 airbox mod. His dyno testing is what prompted me to do it, if he says it works, it does.

What were the results of the dyno testing? Searched couldn't find anything.

-Rog

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just went and cut mine tonight as well. I use a hair dryer to heat up the plastic and it was MUCH easier to cut. Did the clutch arm extension as well :) only 5mm though :D

696

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By 33KTM350
      I just bought a Magura hydraulic clutch for my 2014 CRF450R.  Bought it thinking install would be easy, and I'm not sure that's the case now that I have the product in my hands.  I have searched the forums, YouTube, etc for install help specifically for my model year (2013 and 2014 are same really), and haven't found anything specific for the 2013-2014 model install at all.  Instructions from Magura are TERRIBLE, and are not specific at all to the Honda - generic instructions - so I'm debating if I want to return the product, cuz I don't want trouble or a big install job.  Question: for the 2013-2014 CRF450R install ONLY of a Magura Hymec hydraulic clutch - other model years are different and thus it won't be helpful for other model years - do you have any tips or feedback?  My concerns are below...
      1.  The 2014 model has a sleeve behind the clutch actuation arm that the Magura clutch slave cylinder fits into.  Stock, the sleeve holds one end of the cable, with a nut on the other end to keep the cable end tight in the sleeve.  The Magura slave cylinder, however, slides into the mounting sleeve  - but does NOT have a nut: the tension from the clutch actuation arm pulling on the metal Magura slave cyl tip end is apparently supposed to keep the Magura slave cylinder tight in the mounting sleeve.  Q: Will the Magura slave fit in to the mounting sleeve easily, stay tight, and is there any adjustment needed in order to keep the 4-6mm of freeplay that Magura recommends?  How easy is it to get the Magura slave fitted into the sleeve and the metal tip in place?  Is there enough freeplay between slave and tip end to mount in actuating arm AND the holding sleeve, so that the holding sleeve doesn't need to be unbolted?  
      2. The stock clutch cable and OEM setup runs out of the mounting sleeve (see pics marked "metal starts", and then runs through a metal sleeve that routes the cable through the engine compartment - keeping the cable away from the hot parts of the engine case, so as not to melt the cable insulation (I believe).  That metal sleeve is about 6-8 inches in length.  The Magura clutch cable, on the other hand, exits the Magura slave cylinder at an angle - yet has no such metal routing.  I don't think the OEM metal routing sleeve will accept the Magura cable either, so a) the OEM metal routing sleeve would have to be removed first before installing the Magura - and then b) you have to hope that the Magura cable can be routed in such a way with zip ties holding the hydraulic line that line will not touch or be close to the hot metal engine casing as you route it through the engine.  Q: how easy was it to get the OEM clutch cable and metal routing sleeve out?  Easy as unscrewing the nut on the other end of the OEM cable, on the other side of the black rubber cable flange in my pics?   
      3.  My stock clutch pull isn't bad.  I just like the feel of a hydro clutch.  Any feedback on how much better feeling and easier pull will be with the Magura?  What's your feedback on the difference?  FYI, I'm leaving my clutch plates and springs stock.    
       




    • By Eric Blasiman
      We have a 2016 CRF450R with about 11 hours out. never ridden hard always check the oil and change when needed along with the air filter. Took care of the recall that was required as well. Well when riding the bike was stalled out. Went to try and kick start the bike again. the kick start lever just back up jamming my knee into the handle bars and some how ended up cracking the case right by where the kick start goes through the case. Has any one had this happen or heard of this happening? What is the cause? 
    • By crfjunky1320
      Any advice on what should be replaced while I have the top end off for a valve replacement. Will do headgasket and springs of course, anything other parts you would recommend while I'm going at it?
       
      Thanks!
    • By Ron Whitfeld
      The dirtbike is on it's forth year right now on the same motor job. I have to jump start it. Is it worth me trading for a 2009 650 brute force with7000 miles? Need some expert advice. Thanks 
    • By Lucas Hansen
      Just wondering what you guys do to remove black marks on your seat. My 08 crf450r has the red/black seat, and after each ride there are some black marks on the red from my riding pants. Not scuff marks, more like patches of black residue from my pants rubbing on the seat. I’ve tried the magic eraser which seemed to do the trick, but lately they seem like they aren’t coming off. Also tried scrubbing bubbles with a brush and no luck. Not too worried cuz I have an spare OEM seat, but I’d like to keep this one nice. Any ideas? Maybe I shouldn’t wear black pants?
×