Proper spoke torque?

The Fasst spoke torque wrench I just bought comes preset to 48 inch pounds, which the guy at Fasst assured me was standard. He said pro MXer's run 60 inch pounds (5 ft pounds), because of the heavy jumps, but that wears out the spokes faster. The Yamaha manual and Clymers both say 26 inch pounds. :):D :D

I can't answer your spoke question but I can answer the MX question. Yes, there an Old Timers MX association. You must be over 40 to join. If you are interested in more infor pls send me a private email and I will give you more details. What is your location?

I believe the manual calls for about 25 inch-pounds for the wr250F. My Suziki RM125 and a street bike requires 36 inch-pounds in their manuals. The Fast company told me the same thing about 48 being ok. Quoted the manual and he told me over the phone how to adjust it down to 36. Even at 36 it turned some of the spokes a whole turn. Both my wr and son's rm were bought new last October so I was surprised at how much the 36 inch-pounds tightened the spokes. Make sure that you follow the pattern of doing every 3rd spoke so that the wheel tightens evenly. My son jumps his rm a lot and his spokes on previous bikes came loose. I never felt confident in getting even tightening on the spokes just by feel. This is a great tool since it takes all the guess work out. My WRF wheel rims took the extra torque fine. It took two initial passes on my front wheel. I am a casual trail rider and only do 2 ft high jumps max. The best bet is to follow the manual spec. You can send the wrench to the company and request a specific setting. They will charge $10.

I called East Coast Wheels and he agrees that 48 inch pounds is proper. I also have the Fasst torque wrench and at first it seems like you're over tightening but I've done wheels on several bikes now, and none of us have had any problems. :)

Man--you guys are too exact! I have always used the "screwdriver tuning fork" method. Spin the wheel and let a long screwdriver ping off the spokes. The loose ones don't ping--they go "thud" and need to be tightened so they sound like the others. Go for a continuous, some tone as you spin the wheel, i.e., "ding, ping, ding, ping, ding, ping, thud--tighten that one until it sounds like the ones on either side--then continue. Go just a little bit at a time--just snug them--don't reef on them! An inch pound is not much! I snug them up and check for roundness and trueness. Check them again later as sometimes it takes a bit for the wheel to "to take a set" and you need to tweak them.

If you stay on top of the spokes, you really don't need to do much to them very often. Check roundness and trueness by setting your spoke wrench on top of a full quart oil bottle (for steadyness) and adjust the position until the wrench just almost touches your rim, then slowly spin it and observe from slighly off to the side.

Spray the spoke nipples while spinning the wheel with WD40 after washing the bike and and before adjusting the spokes--it goes a lot easier and keeps the nipples and spokes from seizing and possible snapping.

How many of you guys safety wire your spokes?

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