How do you cure the hanging idle?

I just put in the JD Jetting Kit and now my idle hangs for a second before going back to normal. Do I need to adjust the fuel screw a bit more or am I maybe running to rich on the needle and/or main jet?

Thanks

IMO,,your running alittle lean down low

FS out a 1/4 at a time till ya hit 2 out,

then change to a richer PJ, 1st,

Why Z,

:) I could be mistaken because I don’t know that carburetor but if the pilot screw is a air screw (i think it is) then he’d have to go in to richen it up. Out would be more air making it leaner. The pilot jet or slow jet controls the fuel. I think that’s how it works.

if the pilot screw is a air screw (i think it is) then he’d have to go in to richen it up.

On most (maybe all) high performance 4 strokes the Pilot screw is a Fuel screw, so turning it out increases fuel and richens the mixture. Yamaha, KTM, and the CRF450 work this way. Two strokes have an air screw. A hanging idle is usually lean on the pilot, so turning out the fuel screw as posted before should cure it.

One other area to check is the intake manifold and airboot clamps. I had a lowspeed circuit that was a bit erratic and was very hard to "get perfect". The idle would hangup or drop regardless of fuel screw settings. The stock clamps have a collar over the screw to prevent overtightening. In my case, they were preventing the clamp from doing it's job. I removed the collars to get a bit more clamping force on the carb. You could also cut the collars down if you didn't want to totally remove them. Tight intake valves will also cause the idle to hang....

One other area to check is the intake manifold and airboot clamps. I had a lowspeed circuit that was a bit erratic and was very hard to "get perfect". The idle would hangup or drop regardless of fuel screw settings. The stock clamps have a collar over the screw to prevent overtightening. In my case, they were preventing the clamp from doing it's job. I removed the collars to get a bit more clamping force on the carb. You could also cut the collars down if you didn't want to totally remove them. Tight intake valves will also cause the idle to hang....

The bike just started having this problem after installing the JD Jetting Kit. I really haven't messed with the fuel screw yet cause I don't have a screwdriver that will fit in there. I thought about adjusting it with the carb at an angle a bit, but was afraid this would give me false indications...thus once I mounted the carb back to it's normal state, then I would either still have the same problem or a slightly different problem. :) I never really owned a bike that was this finicky about jetting, so I never really messed with jetting prior to this bike. I apologize for my ignorance on this topic. I guess we were all at this state at one time or another though. :D

Thanks TCTrailrider! Ya, I wasn't sure either way. My bike has an air screw. You know, not high performance. :)

Why Z,

:) I could be mistaken because I don’t know that carburetor but if the pilot screw is a air screw (i think it is) then he’d have to go in to richen it up. Out would be more air making it leaner. The pilot jet or slow jet controls the fuel. I think that’s how it works.

The easiest way to tell if the mixture screw controls fuel or air is the location of the screw.If it's on the engine side of the carb slide it controls fuel(Kehin),air cleaner side controls air(Mikuni). :D

H-Rules,

What you might want to do (Which is a must IMO,)

is get yourself a Zip-ty FS extension. It looks trick and you can adjust it on the fly if need be.

It's RED too and will match your bike as if you bought it that way :D

My 1st take would be to make sure that your going the right way with your FS,, (Out to richen and In to Lean)

2 1/4- 2 1/2 turns out would be okay on your FS but watch out after that, cause some tend to get loose and plain fall out after that.

And your right about finicky.

IMO, these 4 strokes are. That's why I keep a record of every minute change. Conditions ect.

It is time consuming,but when it's all said and done you can just look outside and know what to do and what circuit to change. At least I can now. :)

Take it easyman,,have fun.. :D

PS, check your H-Start adjustment too, and carb boots.

H-Rules,

What you might want to do (Which is a must IMO,)

is get yourself a Zip-ty FS extension. It looks trick and you can adjust it on the fly if need be.

It's RED too and will match your bike as if you bought it that way :D

Yes, I am starting to look into this since it looks like Jetting will become part of the prep ritual :D How much do these cost, I'm assuming not much. I'm assuming they can be purchased through the TT store?

That's why I keep a record of every minute change. Conditions ect.

It is time consuming,but when it's all said and done you can just look outside and know what to do and what circuit to change. At least I can now. :)

Take it easyman,,have fun.. :D

I definitely plan on keeping a log of each setting for this beast. I already started by writing down the stock settings. :D

Thanks for the help WhyZ..have a great new year. :D

I dont know how much the TT store sells them for but I got mine from Zip-ty for 21 bucks. :)

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