WR Maps Only

[mch]

Great pic, thx!  The PartNo#  90890-03215 given on p. 8-31 in my 2012 WR's manual apparently is no longer in production.

I just ordered a package looking similar to what you got, for appr. 100€  partnumber 90890-03182

http://www.cmsnl.com/products/fi-disgnostic-tool_9089003182/#.VTkyfZM1RJ4

 

The thing that scares me is that both my manual and other internet location mention

part# 90890-03212, a "FI diagnostic Tool Sub-lead"  to be necessary to actually use the diag. tool at all.

 

That adapter cable sells for ~180 bucks

 

Hence: 

please outline as precisely as possible how you did get your tool to work,

especially what connections (besides battery) did you setup?

 

I certainly don't want to fry my CDI or The Tool.

 

 

P.

 

I just used a standard wire connector and snipped 1 side off.  I then stuck the remaining edge into the programming plug.  Maybe not that pretty, but it worked.  It's just the 1 wire into the plug.

 

[WRF-Rowdy]

Understood so far, but which one ist the programming plug on my attached pic? 

I offer  grey, blue, green, red, yellow, one of the connectors in the pink area.

(the one circeled RED is shown with it's plug removed, no idea what that is)

 

Especially which pin of the connector is the programming pin?

 

 

Maybe you can upload a pic of the details of your FI tool connection ?

Edited April 26, 2015 by WRF-Rowdy

[mch]

Yellow, top left.

[AtomicGeo]

Understood sof ar, but which one ist the programming plug on my attached pic? 

I offer  grey, blue, green, red, yellow, one of the connectors in the pink area.

(the one circeled RED is shown with it's plug removed, no idea what that is)

 

Especially which pin of the connector is the programming pin?

 

📎20150426_143126.jpg

 

Maybe you can upload a pic of the details of your FI tool connection ?

 

 

Yellow, top left.

 

 

yep, the yellow circled one on the top left.  If you use the FI tool with the clips going to the battery, then you only have to make a connection to the center pin.  If you use the FI tool connector like I showed earlier w/o a connection to the battery, then you use all three wires on the plug.

 

Also, remember to push the FI tool middle button when you power on your bike in order to get it into programming diagnostic mode instead of RPM/temperature monitor mode.  

[WRF-Rowdy]

edit: sorry, you beat me typing wise, that's my drivel, nevertheless:

 

While i was eagerly awaiting your photo documentation (thx a lot) I dove into the electric schematic diagram.

I think i found the connector it has three wires, red, black and (light)green(?).

black is solid ground, Red actually is Br(own) in other places e.g.

it's the "switched Battery plus 12V". Meaning it'll carry 12V only when ignition switch is on.

Green goes directly into the EFI-CDI box!

Red has a diode in flow direction thereby protecting the rest of the bike's electrics from a dork that might feed that plug 28V from his Cessna's battery.

 

So the connector should provide all connections the FI diagnostic tool will need:

Ground, 12V (if ign. is ON) and the signal to talk to the CDI.

 

Do i need that separate battery connecting leads that so many folks on YouTube use the power the tool?

I don't think so and assume your pic is complete in sofar as the is no additional cabeling necessary to run the tool on the WR.

 

 

Question:

Can I get the FI tool into CO-adjustment mode (hold tool button pressed while switching on bike's ignition)

start the engine it, and do real time CO adjustment while measuring CO with an exhaus gas analyzer?

 

I'd like to tweak CO with the FI tool while the bike is idling!

 

Or do I have to "adjust CO" with the tool, ign-off, ign-on, start-bike, check CO, ign-off,

tool-diagmode+ign-on, ajust CO, ign-off, ign.on start-bike......    tedious, to say the least.

Edited April 26, 2015 by WRF-Rowdy

[mch]

AtomicGeo pretty much summed it up. I used the clips to the battery and then used the 1 wire to the center plug. I don't think you can change the setting while it's running.

Edited April 27, 2015 by mch

[YzBraaapster]

Can we make this a stickie?

[Spiritwalker2222]

Here's a new map I've tried and it has helped my hot starting issues.

 

2 1 1      0  1 2

2 2 1     -1  0 1

1 2 1     -1 -1 1

[voldemar]

what level, co?

Here's a new map I've tried and it has helped my hot starting issues.

 

2 1 1      0  1 2

2 2 1     -1  0 1

1 2 1     -1 -1 1

what level, co?

[Spiritwalker2222]

what level, co?

what level, co?

 

CO 7

 

P.S. While I found that this map made the bike very lively and fun, it made the engine feel like an on off switch between 1/8 throttle to 0 throttle. Which tired me out a lot faster than normal in tight woods riding. So I lowered the timing and fuel on the lower left. I'll post that map when I get home.

Edited July 6, 2015 by Spiritwalker2222

[voldemar]

CO 7

 

CO 7

233 -221

244  322

244  333

my map,do not start on a hot

[voldemar]

CO 7

 

P.S. While I found that this map made the bike very lively and fun, it made the engine feel like an on off switch between 1/8 throttle to 0 throttle. Which tired me out a lot faster than normal in tight woods riding. So I lowered the timing and fuel on the lower left. I'll post that map when I get home.

I will wait!))

[bradgross71]

233 -221

244 322

244 333

my map,do not start on a hot

when it doesn't start how do you get it going? I was having same issue and my solution was to hold wide open and cranks a few times, let off and then crank again. Fired up every time.

So that tells me it was a too much fuel issue. I had all fuel at +3 and all ignition at +2 and co at 10.

I changed co to 5 and fuel to +2. Made it better for sure, not great yet but a improvement.

[Spiritwalker2222]

I will wait!))

My current map is

 

1   1   1      0  1   3

0   1   1    -1   0   1

-1  0   1    -3  -1   0

 

My hot start is better than before, but still present somewhat. To avoid hot start issues, I rev the engine a bit before killing the motor. Motor will start right up afterwards. If I stall the bike, I'll hold the bike WOT and crank a few times like Bradgross said above. Then the bike fires up no problem.

 

I'm going to play with CO setting to see if that helps it, I'll probably lower it back to around 0 and see how it is. I haven't had much time to fiddle with the bike.

[voldemar]

in transmission heavy on the hot ! when the throttle slightly open, slightly better START,

I WILL TRY TO CHANGE MAP

[chu]

If you have the diagnostic tool, you can start it up while it's in CO mode and watch the RPMS.  No need to try random numbers.  Keep leaning it out, idle RPM should increase then it will decrease when you went too far.  Try to set it at the peak.  Make sure it's warmed up first.

[voldemar]

If you have the diagnostic tool, you can start it up while it's in CO mode and watch the RPMS.  No need to try random numbers.  Keep leaning it out, idle RPM should increase then it will decrease when you went too far.  Try to set it at the peak.  Make sure it's warmed up first.

I have a Chinese diagnostic tool,, when I go to - 12 RPM begin to fall!  CO 15 

THE RICH MIXTURE!, CO 7

TOO RICH!

SHOT IN THE MUFFLER FROM THE MOUNTAIN

[vlxjim]

Just for fun try this setup. Everyone that has tried it loves it so far. I get PM's all the time about it. Try it, it just works.

 

CO 15

 

Vlxjim Map

 

 Fuel         Timing

3  4  4      0   0   0

3  5  3     -2  -1  0

3  4  3     -2  -2  0

 

 

?

[Spiritwalker2222]

As Chu and Rowdy have mentioned, our CO idle is probably too rich. So I decided to see about leaning it out.

 

After a long ride yesturday I hooked up my FI diagnostic tool and found the CO setting that had the highest idle. I found that a CO of -12 (was at +7) gave the highest idle. I then reduced my idle down to 2000 rpm. Changing the CO raised it from 2000 to 2200.

 

The bike seemed to start flawlessly after that, but I only tried a half dozen times in the parking area I was in.

 

I'm hoping that changing the CO hasn't introduced any negative fueling characteristics, but I won't find out till my next ride either this or next weekend.

 

For reference this is the map I'm currently running.

 

 1 1 1      0  1 3

 0 1 1     -1  0 1

-1 0 1     -3 -1 0

[bradgross71]

Put my co to zero today, almost perfect hot starts