WR Maps Only

FMF Map:

+2 +3 +3 +2 +2 +1

+2 +4 +4 +3 +2 +2

+2 +4 +4 +3 +3 +3

Fuel light at about 40 miles under conditions similar to race conditions. Fast double track and sand washes 30mph moving average max speed 77mph.

Impressive performance off idle to limiter. Hard to stall. Runs cool. Starts easily in gear.

I run this same map and love it not the best in fuel range but the bike rips. From tight single track to wide open desert.

I run this same map and love it not the best in fuel range but the bike rips. From tight single track to wide open desert.

These WR motors are as close to perfection for all around riding as they could be. I don't find range horrible with this map but I'm sure it could be better with mellower tuning. Planning to run this map and 13/48 gearing for an upcoming Baja trip so I'll have a better idea then about fuel range. It'll do 80 miles on a tank fairly reliably right now but I'm not comfortable planning 80 miles between stops especially if I'm solo. On tear down I'm going to have the head ported by AS Racing. That will be only mod to the engine per se and even then all the parts will be OEM.

These WR motors are as close to perfection for all around riding as they could be. I don't find range horrible with this map but I'm sure it could be better with mellower tuning. Planning to run this map and 13/48 gearing for an upcoming Baja trip so I'll have a better idea then about fuel range. It'll do 80 miles on a tank fairly reliably right now but I'm not comfortable planning 80 miles between stops especially if I'm solo. On tear down I'm going to have the head ported by AS Racing. That will be only mod to the engine per se and even then all the parts will be OEM.

I run the IMS 3.0 gal tank and can get just over 80 miles on it reliably.

I run the IMS 3.0 gal tank and can get just over 80 miles on it reliably.

Yep. Same tank.

Yep. Same tank.

 

Yup, me too.  I'm still running the vlxjim map with good results, for the conditions I ride in, for the equipment setup I've got on the cycle, and for the results I want (no red header, no overheat, hi torque at low rpm, etc).

 

This map does what I need, for the type of riding I do.  Since getting the 3.0 tank, I dont worry about range anymore.

Edited by mebgardner

I decided to see if it could take some more timing.

 

+2 +1 +1    +4 +4 +4

+2 +2 +1    +4 +4 +4

+2 +3 +1    +4 +4 +4

 

Didn't hear any pinging on pump 93.  Seems to rip.  No dyno testing this afternoon.  Gonna run this map for a while.

I decided to see if it could take some more timing.

 

+2 +1 +1    +4 +4 +4

+2 +2 +1    +4 +4 +4

+2 +3 +1    +4 +4 +4

 

Didn't hear any pinging on pump 93.  Seems to rip.  No dyno testing this afternoon.  Gonna run this map for a while.

 

Watch for over heating at low RPM with that map.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.  Summer is about over but it might be a problem next year.

Watch for over heating at low RPM with that map.

I've been clutching up 4th a lot since switching to this map.  Didn't seem to have that kind of power before.  Exhaust note sounds different.  No boiling or anything but I've noticed my leg getting a little toasty sometimes.  I think I'm getting a little more popping during engine braking than before.  I'm gonna back the timing down to +3 in the bottom left corner and see how that goes.

Edited by cracker please

I run the IMS 3.0 gal tank and can get just over 80 miles on it reliably.

That's less than 30 mpg

That sucks

My buddy's klr with 3gal tank gets him over 100 miles.

Anybody consider leaning the map out

Then gearing higher wich should smooth out the bottom hit?

And How lean and what should you listen/look for before your damaging the motor

That's less than 30 mpg

That sucks

My buddy's klr with 3gal tank gets him over 100 miles.

Anybody consider leaning the map out

Then gearing higher wich should smooth out the bottom hit?

And How lean and what should you listen/look for before your damaging the motor

I could run all zeros on the ecu which would give me well over 100mile range. But then she's not as fun to ride.

I could run all zeros on the ecu which would give me well over 100mile range. But then she's not as fun to ride.

I run all 0's (only cause I can't scratch enough to buy tuner yet).

But bike is very snappy. Like the 2t she replaced

Sounds like people are turning up the fuel to the smooth out the power.

Snappy sounds funner that smoother

I just have the stock tank, so my range is 80 km's/ 50 miles.

 

CO set to 7 and have the below map.

 

Vlxjim Map

 

Fuel    Timing

3 4 4    0  0 0

3 5 3   -2 -1 0

3 4 3   -2 -2 0

Edited by Spiritwalker2222

I'm gonna try leaning out the 1/3 throttle 6000 rpm square a little to see if it helps gas mileage.  That's about where I am when I'm just cruising.  I'm +3 fuel there now.  Backed it down to +1.  I cleaned the soot off the exhaust, I'm gonna see if it stays cleaner.  I get popping under engine braking starting around 4500 rpms.  Reversion I think they call it.  I'm not gonna bother dumping fuel to try and get it to stop.

Edited by cracker please

Am going to baja where there will be some high speed mixed with super technical on my 12 WR. Am running a map that looks like this:

1 2 2 1 1 0

1 2 3 2 1 1

1 3 3 2 2 2

Have the ecu, powerbomb, and FMF muffler. Never opened up the box as I ride in dusty conditions often. Am an experienced rider but not an experienced FI tuner. Bike has 797 hrs on it and last valve check included leak down compression test. Tech says bike tested like the motor was fresh. The above map has been in the bike for prob the last 500 hrs. I'm concerned about fuel consumption in baja as there will be some long intervals. Pemex will rule the trip so I don't want to lean out the motor much more than it already is without someone more experienced telling me it will probably be ok. What do you guys think?

Gentleman,

I read that some of you changed the CO value from 0 to 8.

Wich tool did you use?

Is Italia necessary to go to a yamaha dealer?

Trans a lot for the info

Paolo

Gentleman,

I read that some of you changed the CO value from 0 to 8.

Wich tool did you use?

Is Italia necessary to go to a yamaha dealer?

Trans a lot for the info

Paolo

  To do it, you need to get a hold of the FI diagnostic tool (it is not the GYTR power tuner) or take it to a dealer who has one.  Mine looks like this:

 

FIDiagnosticTool_zpsbee9e392.jpg

i'm entering a snowmobile drag race this weekend and am looking for a hard hitting program, any suggestions?

  To do it, you need to get a hold of the FI diagnostic tool (it is not the GYTR power tuner) or take it to a dealer who has one.  Mine looks like this:

Great pic, thx!  The PartNo#  90890-03215 given on p. 8-31 in my 2012 WR's manual apparently is no longer in production.

I just ordered a package looking similar to what you got, for appr. 100€  partnumber 90890-03182

http://www.cmsnl.com/products/fi-disgnostic-tool_9089003182/#.VTkyfZM1RJ4

 

The thing that scares me is that both my manual and other internet location mention

part# 90890-03212, a "FI diagnostic Tool Sub-lead"  to be necessary to actually use the diag. tool at all.

 

That adapter cable sells for ~180 bucks :banghead:

 

Hence: 

please outline as precisely as possible how you did get your tool to work,

especially what connections (besides battery) did you setup?

 

I certainly don't want to fry my CDI or The Tool.

 

 

P.

Great pic, thx!  The PartNo#  90890-03215 given on p. 8-31 in my 2012 WR's manual apparently is no longer in production.

I just ordered a package looking similar to what you got, for appr. 100€  partnumber 90890-03182

http://www.cmsnl.com/products/fi-disgnostic-tool_9089003182/#.VTkyfZM1RJ4

 

The thing that scares me is that both my manual and other internet location mention

part# 90890-03212, a "FI diagnostic Tool Sub-lead"  to be necessary to actually use the diag. tool at all.

 

That adapter cable sells for ~180 bucks :banghead:

 

Hence: 

please outline as precisely as possible how you did get your tool to work,

especially what connections (besides battery) did you setup?

 

I certainly don't want to fry my CDI or The Tool.

 

 

P.

 

I made two cables...one for the battery lead method and one w/o the battery lead method like this one pictured below.   I made a cable for about $20, where the cost was mostly the connectors and pins.

 

Both of them require that you power switch on the bike while you are pressing the middle button on the FI tool in order to get into diagnostic mode.  Otherwise it stays in monitor mode and it will read the temperature and RPM in monitor mode.

 

FIPic_zpsba12e3f2.jpg

 

 

I connect to the the Namz/sumitomo connector from the FI tool above to the one on my bike that is in the upper left quadrant in this pic (i.e., the one that has plug/cap on it).  I remove the plug/cap and then plug my FI tool cable into that connector:

 

WP_20150214_001_zps488bfc2e.jpg

Edited by AtomicGeo

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