More suspension questions

More suspension talk -- obviously a big issue for the pig.

Anyway, some of the guys on this forum write as thought they have changed the springs on the shock and forks without taking them apart and re-doing the shims (revalving?).

Is that possible or recommended?

{I know Bruce (BWB63)will read this. Hey, it's Dan, you know, from 3rd Gear Pinned on New Year's Day. My son and I chatted with you at the top of that sandy hill you wrecked on a while back. I took a short ride on your bike. :)}

Simply changing out springs is easily done and has helped me handle small jumps much better. Both static and race sag are set within the recommended range.

From what I have read, the stock (middle of range) settings are best for all-around riding. I made minor adjustments from stock, increasing rebound damping on the shock (by 3 clicks), to reduce fast rebound off kicker jumps.

However, I am not fast nor race. If you are competitive then tuning by a pro is advisable.

Changing the springs is easy to do. On the forks, you simply remove the fork caps, then raise the front wheel and the fork springs and piston rod assembly will be sticking out the top. Then simply unscrew the hex nut that secures the fork cap to the piston rod and swap out the spring. There's a few more detaials, but that's basically it. If you've got some miles on your forks, then I'd recommend removing them completely to change the fluids.

Removing the rear shock is the hardest thing to do, but if you can do that, then getting the spring off is a piece of cake. Once the shock is out, it's just a matter of loosening the adjusting nut from the upper spring seat and then you can turn the spring by hand, which in turn will loosen both the adjusting nut & upper spring seat. Once the spring has the tention removed, you simply slide the lower spring seat off the shaft and the spring slides right off. Just reverse this and your done.

Changing springs is easy and make a very signficant difference in the ride & handling of your bike, especially if you're over 200 lbs. You can generally buy a complete set of front and rear springs for ~$200 or less and it's money well spent in my opinion.

Going to the lighter fluid makes for a plusher ride and with the right spring rate you have a whole new bike, then you can get it tuned a lot better for the crazy pushing you and the bike to the limit, buy re-shimming the valve and then there is opening the valve up for an even plusher ride but, then you have to go stiffer on the shim stack to make up for it. This controles the fluid rate more evenly, relying on the shims more then the flow through the valve it's self. This is what I run in mine. It makes for hitting the whoops at a fast speed way more controlable. Were it all comes together is money, how fast you ride, the crazy stuff and what you will be able to tell the difference with. Spending the money and you get no air or never tear through the whoops? A spring fluid change out (2.5wt) will be 70% or more of what I have and would be awesome till you get over 30 to 40 mph through the big whoops. Most skirt the whoops and just don't have to spend the extra money but, it is nice. There is a difference. The nice thing is you can do it in steps. You have to buy the spring any ways and the stock fluid is whale snot. Also if you change the spring and fluid and the get the valve reshimmed you'll know how much better it is for the money you spent. :) The shock is best done all at once but, just a spring is still a 100% BETTER THEN STOCK IF YOU WEIGH MORE THEN 185. This is the best modification for this bike if you weigh more then 185. JMHO and $.02 worth.


Mr. Lewis give some insight of how yours turned out after you had it done by this Bruce guy. :) What's the deal? Did you go a few clicks more at Glamis because of the larger flight pattern? I know how mine turned out and like what Mr. Roberts had to say about it when he road with us, Gene, Matt, Mike, Steve, Brad and those others that came with Gene but, I am bias. :D

SO ive been reading about everyone going to 2.5 wt in their forks- so i dumped my 5 wt, and put in some of the Spectro 2.5 and drove it up to Gorman for the afternoon--damn. Y'all are on to somethin! Gorman doesnt have that much woop, or that much high speed rock for that matter-but first impressions are good! It seemed to take the hits harder, woops faster, etc. Got on the MX track and did some jumping-went jsut fine... 2.5 seems a lot better than 5 wt...

Thanks for the tip :)


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