Front Fork Locknut adjustment

Has anyone had to adjust the distance of the locknut in their forks? I measured both fork locknuts to be 17mm, but the manual states a minimum distance of 20mm or more between the damper rod top and locknut top. I'm concerned that my Rebound damping adjuster on the top cab is now just for show.

I tried to move the nut by hand, then with a wrench, but it would not budge. Can anyone shed some light on the distance specification?

I had the same problem this weekend when I changed my fork oil but only on one side and yes if your cap is not bottomed out on the rod your rebound adjustment will be off. The adjustment screw pushes down on that little rod but only about 1/8 " so if theres a gap even a little one you will be 4 or 5 clicks off or more (but I think you already figured that out) heres what I did to fix it, I went to Kragen auto parts and got two metric nuts that fit the threaded rod and a bolt of the same size, first I took the bolt and screwed it into the cap by hand, it went in about 16mm but I knew it wasn't all the way in ( it would go deeper into my other cap ) so I got two wrenches and applied a little pressure and it went in the last 3mm (it didnt take much) then worked it back and forth till it easy by hand. after that I took the two nuts and threaded them onto the rod and tightend them together so I could use a wrench to back the lock nut down to 20mm (remember that rod is aluminum so be easy when tighting the nuts together and leave a gap between the nuts and the lock nut) Remove the nuts from the rod and the bolts from the cap, back the rebound screw out as far as it will go (remember it has only 20 clicks) and befor you put the spring back in, put the cap on the rod and check that the threads bottoms out by hand, put the spring in and put it bach together. when you tighen the lock nut it will still require about 1 1/2 turns befor it tightens up.


You are right about the clicks in, I'm at 16 click just to get a softer ride from the forks. I found it funny that the locknuts were both at 17mm, when the manual insists on a 20mm minimum. So you also suggest to ensure the top cap has the same amount of thread distance on each side to ensure it goes all the way. Did the Locknut move easily after you tightened the two nuts together?

It moved pretty easily but only to about 21 mm and then it stopped. Did I really spell before without the "e" twice

I just swapped the stock springs back in my 2008- and the heavier duty race tech springs out..

Then read this post since I was scratching my head about what to do about the lock nut..

I tightened the cap down finger tight before tightening the lock nut, but also am not sure if it was just binding on the threads or something else.

Should I back out the adjuster screw before installing the cap, since I changed springs?

I think I will pull it apart again tomorrow to double check my "work"...



I re read the manual and the post above, and am more clear on this all now. I should have backed out the rebound adjuster screw and also checked (as stated above ) the height of the lock nut.

Will dig back into this tomorrow.

My motto is - it ain't done till the tenth pass.


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