DRZ400s camchain

Hello all I thought I posted a question last week but must have lost my connection before I completed it. Sorry to repeat. Is there an adjustment for the cam chain tensioner on my 2000 DRZ400S? I bought the shop manual and it is a little vague in this subject. It only tells one to lock it on installation and then "unlock the spring after wards. is

ther an adjustment on it like there is on my '79 650 Yamaha? I seem to remeber on on my 65 Honda 160 Hawk as well. It has been a long time since I have had an engine that only fires every other time.(I loved those smelly twostrokes for a long time!).

Many thanks!

Is the cam chain noisy?

The recommended mod on here is to replace the stock auto camchain tensioner with a manual one, never had any problems with mine (01 400S) but apparently the early stock tensioners can fail.

the stock tensioner is completely automatic.no adjustment procedure.

the stock tensioner is completely automatic.no adjustment procedure.

burned -- sorry to correct you on this one but you forgot one detail, the

"Untill it fails -- then the adjustment procedure is quite extensive/expensive" :)

sorry,i stand corrected! :)

Hey Karoo -- do a search on this subject and you will see that there is a wealth of info.

I went with A.P.E. manual adjuster

Also, here is a bit of info Click here for info

Hey burned, I have the dreaded clacking noise on my 2000drze, Is this something that should be taken care of right away, and should the chain just be changed, or should the adjuster be changed as well. Has the problem been with the tensioner or is there a chance of the chain breaking and screwing up everything.

do not ride it anymore until you get a manul tensioner

hey are these noisy at idle or on up in the rpm's or both. thanks -jamie

will it be necessary to change the chain as well, and where can the manual tensioner be had?

Mines noisy at idle and when you let off the throttle, decreasing RPM's. It doesn't do it when increasing RPM.

Thanks Burned, looks like an easy fix.How do you know where to start on the adjustment when the manual tensioner is installed?

when you install it makes sure the nut and oring are backed way off.turn the adjuster in till you feel tension.start the motor.turn the adjuster out till the chain rattles and back in till its quiet.tighten the lock nut down and your done.

when you install it makes sure the nut and oring are backed way off.turn the adjuster in till you feel tension.start the motor.turn the adjuster out till the chain rattles and back in till its quiet.tighten the lock nut down and your done.

Hey burned you might as well put that explaination in your sig :)

Since I've asked I think you have repeated it VERBATIM several times.

Thanks so much for all the ideas and suggestions guys! I am hearing a little bit of noise comming from somewhere. Could be the valves clearance. Have never set them yet. For goodness sakes I just now changed the original sparkplug @ 6700 miles! the new one made little difference! I figured adjusting the cam chain tensioner would be a smart thing to do with this many miles.

I am the original owner and broke it in carefully. It has been the best bike I have ever had so far,and I have had quite a few! I wish I was riding her in the mountains of my old home, California. Just getting good at sugarsand here!!!

thanks again!! ride on!!

Could be the valves clearance. Have never set them yet.

I'd get those valves adjusted asap. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By BikeChimp
      I'd like to turn my UK 2004 DRZ400S back to stock airbox (snorkel) and jets, needle shim position etc
      When I bought it the PO had fitted a Sigma6 kit and done the 3x3 mod but is doesn't have a tapered needle like the JD and other kits. Took me ages to get it running right, however it still runs rich and I'm fed up of arsing around with it. 
      So I've bought a standard airbox without 3x3 hole, stock exhaust.
      Q1 The Suzuki manual says this Mukuni BSR36 (29FA) carb should have a 142.5 Main Jet but the Clymer manual say its a 135.  In UK everything's from sea level to 1000m. I'm in Sheffield so nothing gets above 500m even in the Peaks (Hills). Any UK owners or anyone else know what the correct jet should be?
      Q2 Says the original needle is a '5DH36-2nd'. The needle has 5 notches on it. Currently set at 2 clip from bottom. The Suzuki reference says needle is 5DH36-2nd, Does the 2nd bit mean 2nd from top or bottom?
      Q3 - Does anyone have a detailed photo of the shim order just in case it was assembled wrong. (mine is attached)
      I know most people on here are going to be horrified I'm taking back to stock but any help on above would be really appreciated.

    • By Bgringo
      I've read a lot of threads about this but still haven't found exactly what I'm looking for.  I'm pulling my 2004 DRZ400S out of storage sometime this week and getting it ready for the season.  I live at 9,000 ft, but my first ride of the year is probably going to be at around 5,000 ft.  I was going to pull the 145 main jet I'm running and put in the 150 adjusting the needle from the 2 clip to the 3rd, then re-jet once I got home.  I already have the extended fuel mixture screw in place so I started thinking that I should just run the 150 jet set up and adjust the fuel screw to compensate for the higher elevation where I'll be doing most of my riding.  I will be going down in elevation for rides until late May or June depending on snowfall, but riding on the street when I'm able.  Are there any disadvantages with this?
      I'm new to posting on this forum, so please forgive me if I didn't get the right search words in and there is already a post about this.
    • By Markl5557
      I am currently running 10w 40 Belray non synthetic and I want to switch to full synthetic amsoil .... is it ok to switch from regular to synthetic? I have read it’s not safe to go from synthetic to regular can someone explain if it’s safe to go from regular to synthetic!? Thanks !
    • By RockyMtnMark
      Good Morning,
        Last night I measured my valve clearances for the very first time (I know...) on my DRZ400S.  It's a 2002 and I've owned is since 2011.  I bought it with t's got about 15,000 miles on it and most of it's miles these days are on dirt.
      Intake specs are 0.10-0.20 mm.  Exhaust specs are 0.20-0.30
      My intake valve clearances are in spec, forgot to write them down.  My exhaust valve clearances are between 0.1778 and 0.2032 which is slightly out of spec.  They are no more than 25 microns out of spec.  My question is, do I really need to shim these?  Will this kind of out-of-spec cause performance, mechanical, or other losses?  As far as I can tell, I'd have to buy a whole shim kit which is like $80.  Thanks!
    • By Zach440
      Selling my 2009 Drz400sm. Been a great bike but it’s time to let go . Not looking for any trades - spring is just around the corner ! Located in northern Virginia . Cash only $4200- willing to negotiate I have some wolfman luggage options available as well. Love to make a package deal for someone 

      -11640 miles . Mild off-road never wrecked.
      -Oil / filter changed every 1500 miles
      -New did chain , brake pads , front sprocket at 10400 miles .
      - valves checked and within spec at 10,000
      - jetted with JD kit and 3x3 mod
      -doubletake mirrors
      -waterproof usb wired and located next to Speedo
      - drc large foot pegs , barkbusters with integrated turn signals . 12oclocklabs tall delete with upgraded circuit board
      -thumpertalk case savers
      -sergeant seat (amazing) and Clarke 3.9 tank (190mile range )
      - fog lights wired in so they shut off with high beams
      -Shorai lithium battery
      -led headlight

      - stock gas tank and seat will be included

      The bike is dirty in photos and I apologize my water is currently disabled outside due to freezing temps . Radiator guards and skid plate NOT included but can be for some extra $$. Rear tire could be replaced but front is fine .