'13 WR450 FI Econ Range Map: Under Construction.

I've got about three hours on the engine now and will change oil and filter before the next ride. These 3 hours are mostly slow going technical one track in the lower three gears but the motor seems to have broken in nicely now. It runs like a champ with the "woods" mapping and yesterday I got 38 miles on the odo with no low fuel light. That means I can probably do around 50 miles of this type of terrain on the stock tank. The motor does not run hot, it starts easily in gear, and is relatively hard to stall. I'm liking it! It is by far the best 450 I've ever ridden in bone stock form (sans throttle stop screw/comp ECU/GYTR exhaust mod). Can't wait to get the springers done and add a couple of extra trinkets. Sorry for the extra verbage. Can't help myself. :ride:  :lol:


"I'm using the last one you posted

(Woods Map, see Google for "GYTR Power Tuner Suggested Baseline Settings : http://www.yamahamotorsports.com/sport/mcy/wr450f_GYTR_Power_Tuner_settings.aspx) which is right out of the guide for the GYTR Power Tuner for woods/tight trail with stock exhaust/head. The motor is extremely compliant with this tuning being it'll lug and chug a gear or two too high yet still pull like a freight train to the limiter when necessary. I'm anxious to get in some terrain where I can use more of the motor. So far, so good! I'm really liking this bike!"


"I've done the unaltered Comp ECU map which is all 000 and it seemed to run OK but was hard to start in gear and a bit "lurchy".  I then tried the "mud" map and didn't care for it. This is best described as weird. Feels like a delay from hand to rear wheel and motor takes too long to spool. I'm now running the "woods" map and like it so far. I think it is optimal for the terrain I'm riding and my skill level and speed (or lack thereof). I am going to try the sand mapping when I go down to the open desert. I think the GYTR Power Tuner guide is spot on and I won't deviate much (if at all) until I change the muffler or cams or head, etc. Seriously, this engine makes plenty of power with the minor mods done so far. I believe first things ought to be suspension and protection. Suspension is quite good in stock form and I'm thinking I'll only need heavier springs.





OK, thanks.


I went for a ride yesterday, right after 1st service, and I used a very basic map:



0   0   0  

0   0   0

2   0   0


0   0   0

0   0   0

0   0   0



I bumped the lower left corner of FI to +2 to alleviate a "glowing header" issue. That cooled it right off, and the issue was gone.  I did this because I feared for the valve longevity in the head, figuring if that much energy was showing up on the header, then the exhaust valves must be really cooking.


But, it did not enjoy the fueling the map gave me, and it was similar to what you described previously ("lurchy" feeling").



But, what I can add is, the basic map I used (above), gave me ~45 miles / gal.  I reached 52 miles during "spirited" riding, mostly 2nd and 3rd, rocky hill climbing (and many get-offs, I need work on my skills), and some hard pack dirt and sand Single Track, before the "Low Fuel" lamp lit, and filled it, right then, to measure 1.2 gal used.


So, I was pleased with that amount of range for a 1.2 gal usage.


That's now my basis for an econ map.


Since the "Woods Map" reduces fueling and retards ignition over most of the operating range I'm interested in, I'm going to measure it next.  Your results are encouraging for my "other" parameters (runs cool, does not over-heat, good fueling throttle responses, easy start, hard to stall, will lug and pull when needed).


I'll be watching for the "glowing header" to return, and possibly bump the CO / Idle to alleviate it again (when the Diagnostics tool arrives from India).  It was recently measured at 1.5%, so I know it's lean at Idle.


Thanks, Cubera




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