Leak jet ???

[KTMsixdays]

Well I started my quest for the bog free bike. I know many here said the trying journey was worth it. We'll after all the reading I've done here, it seemed like I would be able to bypass all the stress and cut right to the chase. And have a simple enjoyable journey to my goal. Not so. I have the same bog that most have and figured the cure was in the leak jet. So I installed a 50 leak jet tonight. The bog is still present but better, however overall things got alot worse.

When I push the e-button it just cranks away and will not start until I crack the throttle, then she fires right off.

And then if I leave it idle for a couple of seconds as soon as I touch the throttle it quits. Starts right back up as long as I crack the throttle and keep working it.

I have not checked my AP yet, but didn't think this or the leak jet would affect starting. And yes I recently checked and adjusted the valves, and it was starting and working fine(other than the bog) before.

Any ideas as what to do next, besides put the 90 leak jet back in?

Thanks, Mike

[Mixel]

If you rev, does it pop on decel, and seem to not try and idle at all? When i did my main jet, the bike ran perfect, then all of a sudden i got the same problem i think you have. I pulled the carb bowl back off and blew around on it with compressed air, and put it all back together. It worked fine for a while, but has came back a time or 2 since then. I'm unsure exactly what is the cause of it since i've only had the problem a time or 2, but last time i had it i was out on the trail. all i did was spin my idle screw a little, then reset it where i normally would and the problem was gone.

[Rick_Kienle]

The leak jet should not affect starting. I suspect your fuel screw came out of adjustment when you took the carb bowl off. Why do I say this, well the smae thing you describe happened to me this weekend. I have a zip-ty fuel screw that you have to remove to get the bowl off. When I got everything back together the bike wouldn't start and would barely run. About 1/2 hour later I noticed my zip-ty fuel screw sitting on the counter. ?

[KTMsixdays]

Nope, fuel screw was put back in and set to the same 1.5 turns out. Bike runs fine, and starts fine, you just need to crack the throttle to start. Will check and adjust the AP tonight, if that doesn't help then I will go back to the stock leak jet and see what happens.

Thanks, Mike

[barton]

a simple enjoyable journey to my goal

? ahh grasshopper, would twer that it were so...

Sounds like a pilot jet or fuel screw issue. Check the o-ring on your fuel screw with a magnifiying glass. If you see any rough areas or tears, replace it. Make sure you have that washer that goes between it and the spring installed too. Without it, the o-ring can get deformed.

Take out your pilot jet and blow carb cleaner/compressed air thorough the passage and the fuel screw passage as well.

Having said that, I also don't feel that the leak jet is the cure-all for the bog. It's just one step. You have to make sure that your pilot circuit is working well also, and may even need to adjust needle positon.

My weatherman says it cold as heck in Pennsylvania and this is leaning out your carburation in all circuits. You will have to turn your fuel screw out in 1/4 turn increments and may have to drop your needle clip one or two positions to compensate for the cold weather. Good luck.

PS While you are doing this check the manual and adjust the AP timing EXACTLY as it says in the manual (pg. 4-19 in my 03 WR manual). Very important.

[z4me]

OK I have given this answer many, many times before - 90% of the time it has been the problem.

Check that you have not put the carburator slide back in upside-down! It is possible, and will cause the exact problems you are describing.

[KTMsixdays]

Can't be the slide, didn't have it out. Headed out to mess with it now, should have more info later.

Thanks, Mike

[z4me]

OK, so now it's 87% ?

Going from a 90 to a 50 leak jet is not going to give you the problems you describe - it should only affect the engine while the throttle is being twisted. Maybe the holes you drilled in your airbox have aggrevated a lean condition on your pilot. Turn the fuel screw out to richen the idle mixture.

Otherwise I would check that the boot between the carb and engine has no leaks.

[z4me]

Also check that you have good fuel flow to your carburator and that your float level is set correctly and not binding on anything inside...

[Rick_Kienle]

Bike runs fine, and starts fine, you just need to crack the throttle to start.

If you need to crack the throttle to start it, it does not start fine. You clearly have an issue with your pilot circuit. Check fuel screw, pilot jet, and pilot air jet.

[KTMsixdays]

Well I think most of the problem was the fuel screw. I think the new holes in the air box along with colder tempertures created the lean condition. I also adjusted the AP. It is back to normal, but still has the bog, but it did get better. I really got to be putting along almost stalling and wack it to get it to bog. I ride it more like a two stroke and keep the rpm's up so I think that is why the bog was never a problem, and doubt that it will be now. I just thought it would be nice to have it gone all together.

I think I'll wait until it warms up to a more average riding temp to do anymore changes. I don't want to have to do this all over again when it warms up some.

Thanks for all the advice, you guys are always most helpful.

Enjoy the day, Mike