DR-Z 400s Engine Break-in

I really enjoy this forum and have learned a lot. Getting ready to buy and found a great deal on a new 04 400s about 125 miles from from where I live. I could do most of the ride home under 50 mph (maybe the first 60 miles) but then would have to do about 20 miles on the freeway at at least 60 mph (welcome to So. Cal)and then back to the streets.

What is the break-in like for this engine...should I just plan on putting it on a carrier for the trip home? Thanks. Carl

no way ride it home just let it warm up and dont let the engine run at a constant speed get on and off the throttle alot try ;)to keep it under half throttle. don't dog it though let the rpm's climb.

not you,him!yours was fine.

doh! :):D

I used the mototune break in method on my bike so we'll see how it holds up over time. I didn't baby the bike *at all* and ran it through the gears as if it were fully broken in. I had it up to 80 mph. or so within the first 15 miles. I varied the engine speed a lot and used heavy engine braking. :)

Ride it like you stole it! But easily :)

Thanks for the input...I look forward to the ride home of the new DR-Z and finally getting of the pavement. Lots to learn, glad this site is here to benefit from your discoveries. Carl

Congrats on the new bike.

Enjoy the highway ride home but remember don't trust the mirrors, look once for yourself and twice again for others :)

I always heat-cycle new engines. Ride it 15-20 minutes then let it sit and cool, a half dozen times. I wouldn't ride it 120 miles at once.

Just my .02

I always heat-cycle new engines. Ride it 15-20 minutes then let it sit and cool, a half dozen times. I wouldn't ride it 120 miles at once.

Just my .02


I always here of folks doing this but nobody has ever gave me a decent answer why..

I aint trying to be a smart-ss I just would like to know the theory behind this..

I still dont see why heat cycle,I am a firm believer in run easy a good minute or two untill up to operating temp then flog the snot out of it.

The run for a few minutes and shut down makes no sence at all to me unless you are on a dyno with no air flow for cooling,or maybe running WOT at slow speed,if moving and flogging within reason the bike will not overheat,if it does overheat something is wrong.

I am not trying to change your mind on how you do it or even say it is wrong, if it works for you great. :)

damn... learn something new everyday :)

"rev till it stutters,shift and repeat"

Burned 2004

im flattered bp_fire! :)

"rev till it stutters,shift and repeat"

Burned 2004

im flattered bp_fire! :)

:D thats good. anyway oconnor does have a good point i would probably heat cycle it at least once. The heat cycling isn't to prevent overheating it is to temper the metal parts

Take the back way for a bit at first, row through the gears some and change the oil when you get home. Have a good one. :)

The heat cycling isn't to prevent overheating it is to temper the metal parts

the mototune article directly addresses that.thats a myth.tempering takes place at a temps much higher than any motor could make.

it is that makes sense you would think all the necessary tempering would have been done before assembly and thetempering ive done in school involved heating the metal untill it turned blue. maybe work hardening is a better term or maybe it's all b/s.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By RockyMtnMark
      Good Morning,
        Last night I measured my valve clearances for the very first time (I know...) on my DRZ400S.  It's a 2002 and I've owned is since 2011.  I bought it with t's got about 15,000 miles on it and most of it's miles these days are on dirt.
      Intake specs are 0.10-0.20 mm.  Exhaust specs are 0.20-0.30
      My intake valve clearances are in spec, forgot to write them down.  My exhaust valve clearances are between 0.1778 and 0.2032 which is slightly out of spec.  They are no more than 25 microns out of spec.  My question is, do I really need to shim these?  Will this kind of out-of-spec cause performance, mechanical, or other losses?  As far as I can tell, I'd have to buy a whole shim kit which is like $80.  Thanks!
    • By Zach440
      Selling my 2009 Drz400sm. Been a great bike but it’s time to let go . Not looking for any trades - spring is just around the corner ! Located in northern Virginia . Cash only $4200- willing to negotiate I have some wolfman luggage options available as well. Love to make a package deal for someone 

      -11640 miles . Mild off-road never wrecked.
      -Oil / filter changed every 1500 miles
      -New did chain , brake pads , front sprocket at 10400 miles .
      - valves checked and within spec at 10,000
      - jetted with JD kit and 3x3 mod
      -doubletake mirrors
      -waterproof usb wired and located next to Speedo
      - drc large foot pegs , barkbusters with integrated turn signals . 12oclocklabs tall delete with upgraded circuit board
      -thumpertalk case savers
      -sergeant seat (amazing) and Clarke 3.9 tank (190mile range )
      - fog lights wired in so they shut off with high beams
      -Shorai lithium battery
      -led headlight

      - stock gas tank and seat will be included

      The bike is dirty in photos and I apologize my water is currently disabled outside due to freezing temps . Radiator guards and skid plate NOT included but can be for some extra $$. Rear tire could be replaced but front is fine .
    • By tplayer100
      Currently have a 2000 drz400s work stock suspension. From my understanding this is the worst suspension the drz ever came with without even rebound damping adjustment. Therefore I'm looking for a upgrade. I'm seeing three approaches to take. First being a newer year s model suspension with dampening adjustment. A SM model USD forks and triple tree or some USD forks and triple tree from a rmz. So if you were going to upgrade what direction would you go. I currently ride off-road mostly but I do have some 17s for on road with as well so have to keep that in mind. Thanks
    • By drzvfr
      I did the fix last night and took some pics and notes to make this easy on people that haven't done it and want more detail. Please chime in if you think I've missed something.
      Required Tools:
      Set of Allen wrenches
      #3 Phillips screwdriver
      small flat head screwdriver
      8 & 10 mm sockets
      13 mm open end wrench (I needed this to remove my skid plate)
      snap ring pliers
      gasket scraper
      compressed air
      Required Parts:
      New clutch cover gasket, Suzuki Part # 11482-29F00
      Tube or can of RTV sealant
      Oil filter and oil (if you plan to change the oil)
      1. Remove your skid plate (if you have one). I have a Tonn's skid plate and it was in the way.
      2. Remove right side radiator cover.
      3. Unbolt the rear brake lever. This will require removing a cotter pin on the backside of the bolt, and then the bolt itself. I was able to swing the lever far enough out of the way without completely removing it from the bike (see pic).

      4. Drain the coolant. This requires removing the radiator cap and the small bolt on the water pump, which has an aluminum washer on it. I rocked the bike from side to side to get most of the coolant out of the bike.
      5. The oil, two options here. You can either drain the oil and remove the oil filter or you can do what I did which is lay the bike on its left side to keep the oil from pouring out of the engine when you remove the clutch cover. I still removed the oil filter so I could clean the clutch cover with brake clean after scraping the old gasket off.
      6. Loosen the hose clamp on the coolant hose that attaches to the top of the water pump and fold the hose out of the way.
      7. Remove the water pump cover and the clutch cover by removing the bolts holding them on. Note that some of the bolts are of different sizes so keep track of which hole you pulled them from. Also, not all of the bolts need be removed, see the pic below.

      8. Remove the old gasket from the clutch cover and/or the engine with your gasket scraper. I then cleaned the clutch cover with brake cleaner as it was fairly oily.
      9. With your snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the plastic gear on the clutch cover seen here:

      10. Remove the plastic gear.
      11. Push out the metal pin and remove the washer underneath as seen here:

      12. With a screwdriver or whatever your preferred tool, remove the “E” clip as seen here:

      13. After removing the “E” clip push the water pump shaft out of the clutch cover.
      14. You will now have the part in your hand that needs fixing. Remove the porcelain gasket at the bottom of the shaft by blowing it with compressed air. Don’t not pry it with a screwdriver as it could damage the gasket. Mine was stuck fairly well so I sprayed some WD-40 on first to loosen it up.
      15. If you used WD-40 clean the shaft and gasket with some brake cleaner and then apply the RTV sealant to this area (I reused this pic as its perfect):

      16. Push the gasket back down flush on the shaft wiping away any excess RTV that may flow out.
      17. Reassemble the shaft into the clutch cover in reverse order as listed in steps 9-13.
      18. Place your new clutch cover gasket on the engine and then place the cover back onto the bike.
      19. Put the bolts back into the clutch and water pump cover and tighten equally. I could not find a torque setting for these in the manual so I snugged them evenly.
      20. Put the oil filter or a new one in the bike and put the oil filter cover back on.
      21. Re-attach the brake lever and tighten the bolt to 21 ft lbs. Be sure to install a new cotter pin on the backside of the bolt.
      22. If you drained your oil, refill the crankcase with the proper amount. If you didn’t drain the oil be sure you have enough in the crankcase from oil lost from removing the clutch cover.
      23. Let bike sit for 24 hours to let the RTV set up before adding coolant.
      24. Re-attach the coolant hose to the top of the water pump and tighten the hose clamp.
      25. Fill the radiator with a “Silicate Free” anti-freeze and put the radiator cap back on and tighten the radiator cap screw.
      26. Put the radiator cover and your skid plate back on the bike.
      27. You are done, go ride!
      This post has been promoted to a wiki
      Since I've been getting a few requests a week to e-mail the re-jet instructions word document (offered to send it to someone in old post that lives on) I thought I'd throw this post together. It is perhaps the one stop shop for 3x3 mod info: the master 3x3 post
      The 3x3 Mod
      So what is the 3x3 mod anyway? Well, this mod is basically re-jetting your carb and allowing it to run to its full potential. This mod can be done by even the most newbie of wrenchers out there. 3x3 refers to the size of hole that you will need to cut into the top of your airbox where your snorkel currently is. Don’t worry, you are not carelessly risking getting water into your engine by removing the snorkel. The bread and butter of the mod is the taper of new needle which you will get with your kit.
      Jet kits can be found through the TT here
      Scroll down to the bottom to find the right kit for your DRZ
      If you purchased a S kit for SM by accident don’t worry it will work (different jetting specs are used, just ask!)
      There are some great instructions outlining the procedure and here are two:
      bayoubikebruiser’s post is a nice one (Good Job BBB)
      Note that BBB followed the TPS sensor wire back and detached from the clip it there rather than removing the TPS off the carb.
      Another read is the attached word file (which i convereted to pdf and can be found here for your convenience) which has ‘been around the block’ to say the least.
      Sample Jetting recommendations (note: these are different for different elevations and different bikes)
      - 150 main jet (155mj for full exhaust system)
      - 25 pilot jet
      - 2nd clip on needle from top
      - 2.5 turns out on fuel screw
      - 140 – 142.mj (bigger for exhaust)
      - 25 pilot jet
      - 4th position from top
      - 2.5 to 3 turns out on fuel screw
      Burned’s fuel screw setting method:
      with the bike warm and idleing turn the fuel screw in till the idle drops/misses.then go back out till the idle peaks/smooths.
      this should happen between 1 and 3 turns out.
      if you end up at less than 1 turn you need a smaller pilot jet.more than 2.5 (or 3 turns on a cv) you need a bigger pilot jet.
      choose the appropriate size and retest.
      The 25 Pilot jet part number for TT is:
      So… now you have the info that you need, get to it! Your bike will sound better and rip a little faster; get ready to grin!