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hawaiidirtrider

2009 Beta 525 mods?.. other stuff to put on?

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Ok I got turned around and this thread was in the exotics and I posted a bunch of info not knowing it wasn't in the Beta section... Anyway so got any ideas on other stuff to put on  525 rfs Beta to make it work better in some way?.. Of course a Beta is great basicly stock with guards , maybe stiffer springs if you're bigger and gearing.. but I just added stuff  over the years instead of buying a new bike.  Of course a brand new 498 is awesome but I still love my older Beta. Thanks ahead of time.  

 

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/984211-2008-beta-525rr/page-3

 

I'll stick a trail ride vid just because... It's a trail bike.. not just for bling..

 

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Bravo to you for keeping what you have and dialing it in. While the new Beta motor is nice, you will be hard pressed to find a more solid motor than the RFS. Have you thought about tearing it down and do a refurbish?  How many hours on the motor? Is it ready for a top end yet?

 

Just a fair warning on graphics though. I pretty much beat the crap out of my new 400.00 plastic/graphics 1st ride out after refurbishing my 300 a few months back.

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Bravo to you for keeping what you have and dialing it in. While the new Beta motor is nice, you will be hard pressed to find a more solid motor than the RFS. Have you thought about tearing it down and do a refurbish?  How many hours on the motor? Is it ready for a top end yet?

 

Just a fair warning on graphics though. I pretty much beat the crap out of my new 400.00 plastic/graphics 1st ride out after refurbishing my 300 a few months back.

 

Graphics just don't like to stay on my Beta. I've tried a bunch of things but the best so far is just putting a small Beta sticker high and out of the way of my knees on the side shrouds. .. All the others .. it's just a matter of time before it starts falling off or getting shredded some how. I don't know how many miles I have on my top end ...or my average miles but I don't think it's very much. We don't put a lot of miles where we ride anyway. It's  fewer miles(but hard miles) but we are done physically so the motor should be good to go for a long time .. plus I share mileage with my cr and gasgas  and soon my husky 430 .

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Ok .. lets see  .

 

IMS big tank

flatland racing front disc guard

adapted scotts rear disc guard

racetech gold valved front forks 45's

resprung for my weight front and rear

rear longer shaft rear shock.. (didn't gold valve yet)

rear carry rack

gutz high soft foam seat with a hump

Beta racing red triple clamp 

90/100-21 Motoz tractionator soft terrain front tire.

Motoz terrapactor Soft terrain rear tire ..biggest one I could get.

BRP chain guide

composite plastic cycra hand guards  (kinda cheapo but it's lasted this long) 

progrip gel 714 rally grips

;Scotts damper needs to be put back on.. just never got longer arm after changing triple clamps

fan kit for radiator

flatland ktm adapted radiator guards

HT oil cooler ( I figured I'd keep the bike a long time and might improve cooling a little too)

force racing countershaft chain guard

ironman rear sprocket

Beta desert skid plate

ktm rear offsett system rig large footpegs

scary now carb insert. (not much difference)

inline fuel  filter

flatland rfs ktm header pipe guard

fmf rear slipon spark arrestor

rear brake caliper guard for scotts rear disc guard

radiator overflow tank 

high pressure radiator cap 

trailtec DC conversion higher output stator.. 

Beta billet rear brake pedal (the stock ones keep breaking on a regular basis)

carbon fiber upper fork tube guards

glass oil site glass guard  from force .. I don't think they sell them now..but was for ktm rfs motors..

 

  

 

That's a bunch of stuff and I still have more that I haven't put  on yet and thinking of getting.

 

Things I havent put on yet:

 

I have some big radiators that I haven't put on yet.

carbon fiber frame guards bought on sale from Beta

stainless steel spokes

temperature stickers

silicone radiator hose

inline aluminum coolers

bullet proof designs ktm swing arm guard

Get dirty countershaft washer ..

http://shop.getdirtydirtbikes.com/Countershaft-Dome-Washer-DT-KT-DW.htm

 

ktm gasgas style wrap around plastic fork guards.

 

 

Things I might want to get and put on:

 

18" 2.5"width rear rim

rear brake caliper cooler..  either boano racing or devol

high output impellar for rfs motor  

twisted engineering handle bars

good hand guards to match

rear racetech goldvalves for shock

Goldentyre rear 18" GT216 HBN ? or something like that.. a little longer lasting than the "gummy" tire that seems to be the rage.

 

I know a few of you have some great bigger bore motors in your Beta's. That's pretty cool . When it gets time later I think I'll have to pick some brains for what might work better for my needs. Some here have some cool upgraded forks and triple clamps too. For now I'm happy with my new gold valved forks but who knows later. 

 

What else can you guys think of?      This is how I've fought off getting a new bike..just buy goodies to fight off the new bike urges. It's still cheaper. ..

 

This isn't real current but close enough for now..

 

 

 

 

 
 
Ok this is transferred over from the exotics thread.. This should make things clearer..
Edited by hawaiidirtrider
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 This is pretty much how the bike looks now but there are .some improvements since.. front forks revalved for one.. I change the plastics around sometimes.. looking for some cheap used red/orange radiator shrouds too from 08'.. just to change things up.

 

 

Edited by hawaiidirtrider

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How about some Beta billet hubs, rims and cush drive.  Would have done that to mine but too much $$$$.  I couldn't just get the cush drive without the wheel/hub upgrade too.  :cry:  I guess the cush drive is supossed to help prolong the life of the drive train when used as a duel sport or on long pavement rides.

 

I have ~200 miles and have already scuffed the muffler and the couple of spots on the plastics and broke the glass on the right mirror.  I don't anticipate the graphics looking good for long.

 

 

Nice looking bike.  Way too clean for all of those ride videos you post.  :D  How do you do it?

 

Hafty

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How about some Beta billet hubs, rims and cush drive.  Would have done that to mine but too much $$$$.  I couldn't just get the cush drive without the wheel/hub upgrade too.  :cry:  I guess the cush drive is supossed to help prolong the life of the drive train when used as a duel sport or on long pavement rides.

 

I have ~200 miles and have already scuffed the muffler and the couple of spots on the plastics and broke the glass on the right mirror.  I don't anticipate the graphics looking good for long.

 

 

Nice looking bike.  Way too clean for all of those ride videos you post.  :D  How do you do it?

 

Hafty

Thanks.. I guess I could get some billet hubs at some time. I never saw the "cush" drive. Can you link it? I'll go look around now for what you are talking about.  I guess the billet hubs are more bling so haven't gone that route as the bang for my buck would go further for other stuff.. like maybe a 540 kit etc. Really the bike isn't that clean.. but spray and wash is a good cleaner considering.. The clutch cases are all stained from that red iron rich dirt Oahu is famous for . I've gotta take that cover off and paint some high heat wrought iron black.. 

I don't know what that cush drive is. gotta check out what yur talking about.

 

http://www.radmfg.com/Cush-Series-REAR-HUB-125-up-p/radh-eq-1r.htm

 

Ok.. now I see it. Is this that great of an upgrade? What is the big benefit? I remember this on old street legal bikes from the 60's and 70's.

Edited by hawaiidirtrider

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Unless you're riding LONG distances on the slab, impossible in Hawaii, I wouldn't spend money on a cush hub. Virtually nobody has ever had a transmission issue with the RFS requiring one. It's not uncommon for the dual sport guys on the 525 to put 30k or 40k in their bikes with no issues. Your money is better spent someplace else.

 

Oh, mill a flat spot on your rear caliper and epoxy a computer CPU heat sink on it. Works way better than the screw on cooler. We ride down long hills in the Rockies and found this works best.

 

Very good bike. I'd be hard pressed to send one down the road unless it was completely thrashed.

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Unless you're riding LONG distances on the slab, impossible in Hawaii, I wouldn't spend money on a cush hub. Virtually nobody has ever had a transmission issue with the RFS requiring one. It's not uncommon for the dual sport guys on the 525 to put 30k or 40k in their bikes with no issues. Your money is better spent someplace else.

 

Oh, mill a flat spot on your rear caliper and epoxy a computer CPU heat sink on it. Works way better than the screw on cooler. We ride down long hills in the Rockies and found this works best.

 

Very good bike. I'd be hard pressed to send one down the road unless it was completely thrashed.

Ok thanks.. now another new thing I haven't seen or heard of before "computer CPU heat sink". Thanks for something I haven't heard of as a mod.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=computer+heat+sink&espv=210&es_sm=93&tbm=isch&imgil=7GvoiPvduFFGbM%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com%252Fimages%253Fq%253Dtbn%253AANd9GcTcwdzrBxeCep463LQLJVQtlKMOEWLNqBiSuNdae3c_L_0qlx5K%253B1181%253B859%253BxaVX2MFI182F-M%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.wisefull.com%25252Fgoods-193-%25252525E9%252525259B%25252525BB%25252525E8%2525252585%25252525A6%25252525E9%25252525A1%252525259E%25252525E6%2525252595%25252525A3%25252525E7%2525252586%25252525B1%25252525E7%2525252589%2525252587-05.html&source=iu&usg=__V47ZiLGHBjsgp6-LeS6rAlHlLIE%3D&sa=X&ei=yWjxUunmN5beoASy0IGQCg&ved=0CDIQ9QEwAw&biw=1375&bih=658#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=7GvoiPvduFFGbM%253A%3BxaVX2MFI182F-M%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.wisefull.com%252Fimages%252F200907%252F1246879729976457209.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.wisefull.com%252Fgoods-193-%2525E9%25259B%2525BB%2525E8%252585%2525A6%2525E9%2525A1%25259E%2525E6%252595%2525A3%2525E7%252586%2525B1%2525E7%252589%252587-05.html%3B1181%3B859

 

Ok I learned a new term.

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Thanks.. I guess I could get some billet hubs at some time. I never saw the "cush" drive. Can you link it? I'll go look around now for what you are talking about.  I guess the billet hubs are more bling so haven't gone that route as the bang for my buck would go further for other stuff.. like maybe a 540 kit etc. Really the bike isn't that clean.. but spray and wash is a good cleaner considering.. The clutch cases are all stained from that red iron rich dirt Oahu is famous for . I've gotta take that cover off and paint some high heat wrought iron black.. 

I don't know what that cush drive is. gotta check out what yur talking about.

 

http://www.radmfg.com/Cush-Series-REAR-HUB-125-up-p/radh-eq-1r.htm

 

Ok.. now I see it. Is this that great of an upgrade? What is the big benefit? I remember this on old street legal bikes from the 60's and 70's.

Here is where I found it for the Beta's

 

http://www.americanbeta.com/byob/RS/713/25/#byob-beta-thumbs

 

and OMG here in the accessories on their site... nevermind

 

http://shop.americanbeta.com/c/accessories_rr-rs_2014-rs_chassis_tires-wheels

 

I looked into them when I had my yamaha wr450f and was riding kind of long pavment links to get to the dirt trails.  Like Ud_Luz is saying money would be better spent on other items at almost $1200+ for the whole hook up.  Its why I didn't do it.    It would be a benefit for me since I live in Utah and ride from home.  I can go 2-3 hundred miles in a day and have to hit 30% or more of that in pavement sometimes.

 

BTW it is still being used on newer bike.  Its stock on my 2013 Husky TR 650 Terra.

 

Hafty

Edited by Hafty
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Here is where I found it for the Beta's

 

http://www.americanbeta.com/byob/RS/713/25/#byob-beta-thumbs

 

and OMG here in the accessories on their site... nevermind

 

http://shop.americanbeta.com/c/accessories_rr-rs_2014-rs_chassis_tires-wheels

 

I looked into them when I had my yamaha wr450f and was riding kind of long pavment links to get to the dirt trails.  Like Ud_Luz is saying money would be better spent on other items at almost $1200+ for the whole hook up.  Its why I didn't do it.    It would be a benefit for me since I live in Utah and ride from home.  I can go 2-3 hundred miles in a day and have to hit 30% or more of that in pavement sometimes.

 

BTW it is still being used on newer bike.  Its stock on my 2013 Husky TR 650 Terra.

 

Hafty

Thanks! .. I never saw this before. It's not something that I think is very high for my priority but now I at least know it as an option.

 

rad%20cush%20hub_0.JPG

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I have a rear  racediscs rear brake disc to put on. The stock square edged disc pulls grass into the caliper and it gets clogged up. I looked around and found these on ebay. They aren't totally smooth and round but it's much better than what's on now. They were cheap too. I don't know how good or bad they work though till I try.

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Beta-RR-Rear-Brake-Disc-Rotor-250-350-400-450-498-520-525-RaceDiscs-RD051-/251420684120

 

$(KGrHqEOKkEE7E1)d8qTBO)Ww44bCw~~60_58.J

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Unless you're riding LONG distances on the slab, impossible in Hawaii, I wouldn't spend money on a cush hub. Virtually nobody has ever had a transmission issue with the RFS requiring one. It's not uncommon for the dual sport guys on the 525 to put 30k or 40k in their bikes with no issues. Your money is better spent someplace else.

 

Oh, mill a flat spot on your rear caliper and epoxy a computer CPU heat sink on it. Works way better than the screw on cooler. We ride down long hills in the Rockies and found this works best.

 

Very good bike. I'd be hard pressed to send one down the road unless it was completely thrashed.

Ok so I guess I have to look for a computer junk yard for one of these somewhere..

 

I saw these padiator things too but wondering if this just makes the brake more vulnerable to be broken in a fall.. They look kinda funky too.. If they work is another thing too..

 

s780_IMG_7515.jpg?1364075416

Edited by hawaiidirtrider

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Here's another version..

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/COOLER-FIN-REAR-BRAKE-PADS-CR125R-CR250-CRF250R-CRF450R-CR-450-250R-CRF-HONDA-/271221710954?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACR250&hash=item3f2612e06a&vxp=mtr

 

$_12.JPG

 

I don't know.. the heat sink seems better for now.. I guess actually you could put both on there in this case..  this  funky cooler brake pad thingy and the heat sink.  I'll keep looking around. I'm not so thrilled about the looks.. but it may work.

Edited by hawaiidirtrider

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Ok so I guess I have to look for a computer junk yard for one of these somewhere..

Any repair shop has boxes of these things. Likely they'll give you one. Look at your caliper and you'll see a flat spot, at least on the KTM. You can take a file and flatten it slightly (the KTM has a small ridge). Take some JB Marineweld and epoxy the sink to the caliper.

 

Now, as a practical matter usually you can replace your brake fluid with something like Wilwood EXP 600 and never ever suffer from brake fade due to boiling the fluid. Also since non silicone (DOT 3, 4, 5.1) brake fluid is hygroscopic I would suggest in the high humidity of Hawaii that you renew the brake fluid every season. Water causes early brake fade.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-290-6209-Plus-Brake-Fluid/dp/B003MQT3C0

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I have a rear  racediscs rear brake disc to put on. The stock square edged disc pulls grass into the caliper and it gets clogged up. I looked around and found these on ebay. They aren't totally smooth and round but it's much better than what's on now. They were cheap too. I don't know how good or bad they work though till I try.

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Beta-RR-Rear-Brake-Disc-Rotor-250-350-400-450-498-520-525-RaceDiscs-RD051-/251420684120

 

 

My favorite for mud or heavy grass is the Moose solid rear. That unit looks good though and is priced right.

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Any repair shop has boxes of these things. Likely they'll give you one. Look at your caliper and you'll see a flat spot, at least on the KTM. You can take a file and flatten it slightly (the KTM has a small ridge). Take some JB Marineweld and epoxy the sink to the caliper.

 

Now, as a practical matter usually you can replace your brake fluid with something like Wilwood EXP 600 and never ever suffer from brake fade due to boiling the fluid. Also since non silicone (DOT 3, 4, 5.1) brake fluid is hygroscopic I would suggest in the high humidity of Hawaii that you renew the brake fluid every season. Water causes early brake fade.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-290-6209-Plus-Brake-Fluid/dp/B003MQT3C0

 

Thanks! Yea I guess I gotta check around to see what repair shops are around here or talk to some of my computer friends.. I've never heard of that Wilwood . Thanks.. something else to try.. I have been using some high temp motul brake fluid that works pretty good .. Yea I have to change out my brake fluid regularly  to keep from fading or just going away.  I'm not sure now but I think this is what I have..

 

http://www.amazon.com/Motul-RBF600-Synthetic-Brake-Fluid/dp/B0011E2Y0I/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1391658830&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=motul+brake+fluid+high+temp

Edited by hawaiidirtrider

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Might use thermally conductive epoxy on that heat sink, small tube doesn't cost much.

 

Some of the ktm lc4 bikes use a cush hub that could adapt to other ktm wheels.

 

Other money well spent on that rfs motor is replacing the valve rocker bearings BEFORE they fail and drop needles everywhere. Bud has lost 2 in 15k.

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