Is your Clutch a Drag? Can't find Neutral?



Now, with 100% less stupidity, at no extra cost!



This trick was posted previously in other forums, but I just became aware of it this week, thanks to 'peaceofwork'.


It's simple:


- remove clutch cover

- remove all clutch spring bolts, leaving springs in place

- install (1) standard 6mm flat washer on the bolts, and re-install.






- BE CAREFUL not to over torque these bolts. 5ftlbs is plenty

- re install clutch cover (don't over torque these either


Take care when re-installing the spring bolts, as they have a greater tendency to cross thread with the washer in place. 






 As you can see the new 'revised' washer size is small enough to fit inside the spring








Below, the spring/bolt combination on the left is tighted all the way down (stock)

The spring/washer/bolt combination on the right is also tightened all the way down, and sits up higher.

Picture still shows the INCORRECT washers have yet to be removed from the remaining springs........



Edited by TheKoolAidMadeMeSick

It will cure clutch drag ONLY if the original cause is that the springs are coil binding or very near to it at full pressure plate travel, preventing the complete lift of the plate.  In most cases, that's not the problem.  In fact, even when this approach appears to remedy the situation, it may actually be caused by using thicker than specified plates, which compresses the assembled height of the spring too far, leading to binding at full reach. 


The most common causes are improper adjustment, plates that are not sufficiently flat, "spongy" bargain friction plates, and notches hammered into the basket/boss.  The "spring problem" only shows up on one or two models. 

Every WR I've owned (2003/5/7/7/8) has had this problem, even with brand new oem clutch pack.

I do not notch my baskets either.

Whereas none of the YZ426/450's I've had have had it when healthy.  They do call out a different spring set, too.

It's also a trick well known for the wr250. Think it's a trick I outta do about now.

Yamaha should make a part number for them washers so I could feel better about them being in my bike and working so good

I guess I'm confused. If you add the washer and then run the bolt in until it bottoms, you have even less bolt length available (because the washer takes up bolt length) for the spring to decompress which let's the clutch plates separate. Seems to me, if the problem is that too many threads allow the bolt to sink too deep, the solution would be to add an appropriately sized sleeve onto the bolt, so that the bolt can't seat so deep. Can someone explain to me why this washer mod works in "Mother Goose" terms?

Yeah I don't get this one either. Putting a washer down to the top of the threaded boss is the same as the screw head touching the top of the boss. The distances and the compression is the same. And if you've not decrease spring pressure the result will be the same. The only thing that I see that the new washer would do is possibly cause less friction on the spring face allowing release of twist in the spring removing some extra tension possibly.


Edited by TheKoolAidMadeMeSick

You nee to understand that the washer goes inside the spring, not under it.  The effective length of the shoulder on the spring bolt becomes longer by the thickness of the washer, giving the spring that much less preload.

My WR e-starts in gear.


Stock clutch.


Edited by TheKoolAidMadeMeSick

Wow the internet. Come on Breezer A WR450 that starts it in gear. Really.


Hum well I guess mine do also. Ah barley. Well all three of the bikes will start in gear struggling at best and clutch dragging like heck.


 I looked it up long ago and found the fix on the 250's but no one posted it on the 450'S and never got around to trying it.  Think it's called the .79 cent fix.


Anyways a big thanks Krannie for posting your findings and the fix on Yamaha's clutch drag problem !

Edited by stevethe

the test is good ,right on krannie  thanks for reporting back on that

We had this problem on Wr250 only 700 miles.All stock clutch,the washer trick 100% fixed this problem.Bike over 1000 miles on it ,works like it should from Yamaha.BTR

All of you who put in the washers, please send me $49.99 plus shipping and handling.

krannie   half seems reasonable for my cut for clueing you in on this trick don't stress your self trying to figure out half of 49.99 just round it off to 25 American dollars and remember I do charge a already reduced 10% book keeping fee for tt members

I'm sorry, pieceofpie is it?  Do I know you?

We had this problem on Wr250 only 700 miles.All stock clutch,the washer trick 100% fixed this problem.Bike over 1000 miles on it ,works like it should from Yamaha.BTR


My WR250 does it with 250km's on it. I'll have to give this washer mod a go.

sounds like my lawyer is going to need  your address koolaidboy- but seriously who ever it was that originaly thought this washer trick up GREAT JOB THANKS FOR SHARING

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