Tusk lighting kit on WR400

So I've just ordered this and have been going through all the posts related to both the kit and my bike which is a 2000 WR400. Now my question is since the bike doesn't have a battery I don't really want to be running the turn lights and rear brake light off that battery. I've read about people installing a rectifier after the stator then doing a bunch of wiring to get DC to light the kit. Since I'll be using the light included in the kit could I not theoretically take the input for the factory rear light disconnect it and put the rectifier there and then to the input where the tusk battery is thereby making enough DC to run the LED blinkers and rear light.

Wondering if this is possible or if anyone has done it this was as in my head this would make it the most simplest solution to running this right off the bikes power.

Thanks in advance!

I have an 01 WR250F and have "floated the ground" and installed a Baja Designs regulator/rectifier.  The BD unit needs a battery to work, I used a ballistic lipo battery.  BD sells a nicad battery that should work with their regulator.  The Tusk kits I've seen come with a nicad, so your's should work.  


What you're thinking of could work.  Hook up a Radio Shack full wave bridge rectifier to the lighting circuit, run the bike and see what the DC output is.  RS sells a FWB recifier, it's a block about 1 1/4 square.  I've used it for motorcycle applications and it works fine.  I've charged nicads with some cobbled up chargers, they're not that picky. 

So since you've "floated the ground" I've looked this up and it seems pretty straight forward but I'm getting lost on the last part of the puzzle. Once you disconnect the ground and feed it up and out where do you attach it? Or do you just leave it I guess you could say floating not connected to anything.

Also if you don't mind me picking your brain. When you install the new rectifier am I going to want to run the whole bike off that or just the added tusk kit.

There's 2 wires coming from the stator from the lighting coil.  One end of the lighting coil is attached to ground at the stator.  Not sure why they do that but I disconnected that ground.  Now since it's a DC system, the negative side of the DC system can be grounded.  But, I'm sure I could have left the stator as is and isolated the DC system from ground.  You can't have both the AC side and DC side grounded.  

You're gonna need DC for a horn, they just won't work off AC, I've tried.  Tried a FWB and filter on the horn circuit only, still feeble.  So I converted the whole system.  You probably ought to also.  The headlight is brighter on DC and the horn works.  We don't have to have turn signals here.  So I'm not sure if they would work off AC, another reason to convert the whole system.  

Below is a picture of the alternator with arrows to what you cut and connect together to float the ground.  This one's an '01, yours probably looks about the same. 

On both of my bikes I have made my own separate harness for the lighting and horn.  I use a Baja Designs keyed switch for the ignition and it also kills the lights but not the horn.   I use a Tusk hi, low, off, horn switch, it's probably what came with your kit.  

Also in the lighting circuit are a couple of 4 amp diodes so that the Tusk switch can turn on the tail light as it doesn't have a separate switch in it for that.  They are outlined in green.  Schematic posted below.  



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