Bike having trouble kickstarting

I bought a yzf250 and now I'm having trouble kick starting but it will push start fine and run great after I brought home in my truck and it was raining I don't know if the guy I bought it from left gas in the carb any suggestions

It's a 2005 and it has 2 hours on new top end

Did it start up easy at the guys house when you bought it? Or did you not even try to start it?

 

Did they do anything with the valves at that time of the top end? Might be worth popping the valve cover off to check em out (need tapered feeler gauges), at the very least it'd rule them out. Doesn't take but maybe 2hrs (with tear down and re-assembly). I mean, it may not be the problem, but it sounds like the typical symptoms of it. Usually guys can still get them to bump started like you can.

 

Again you need something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BikeMaster-32-Blade-Feeler-Gauge-Dual-Mark-NEW-/161187979359?hash=item25878d605f&vxp=mtr

 

Normal feeler gauges are too fat!

Edited by J_YZ2fittyF

He had it started when I got there.i called him and he said he never had that problem I think I might have been flooding it I had a crf 230 and it didn't start up the same way I read that your only suppose to hit the throttle once or twice then kick it over

He had it started when I got there.i called him and he said he never had that problem I think I might have been flooding it I had a crf 230 and it didn't start up the same way I read that your only suppose to hit the throttle once or twice then kick it over

That sounds fishy if he had it running when you got there and you didn't see him start it.  I would guess he bump started it.  Sounds like tight valves.  

Yeah I will check the valves and post the findings thanks alot.

If this is the case, and they are tight...him getting it started before you showed up is one hell of a shady move. *Crossin fingers for ya*

 

 

In the future, and I know this doesnt help you now, I would always prefer I get to watch them start it while the engine is still completely cold. Since the problem you are having would have been evident before you bought it AND you now know that those very symptoms COULD be valves (huge negotiating piece OR a good reason to walk away). However, even if it did start fine cold in front of your face, you can have valves on their way out. For example my 07...started fantastic when I was there. However, 10hrs later after I bought/rode it...my middle intake zero'd out...ended up doin all new valves last season. Always some risk unfortunately.

Edited by J_YZ2fittyF

Yeah that's the chance we take how much to do the valves ?

Check the valves if they are tight  note the thickness of the shims.  Without a history on the valve adjustments of the bike it is hard to make a assessment of  valve condition.  But if the shims are .065" or less you probably need a valve job.  Personnaly I have had great results using Delwest intake valves they last much longer than oem.  The stock exhaust last a long time.

I agree that the exhausts going are definitely not as common. I used OEM personally, but I can't speak for any of the other brands from experience. If they need to be done, you're looking at around 600 probably all said and done if you go OEM (which many recommend). That includes shipping the head to someone for seat cutting, etc. I used a guy from Illinois, he did a good job. Forget the price now (200ish), but you send em the head complete...basically take cams off just to get the cam chain out..then put em back in and finger tighten the bolts (leave the shims in). Pack it up and ship it, preferably get all the parts together and send them WITH the head. Valves, seals, retainers, valve locks, springs. He will inspect the seats and guides and recommend them if needed. Just one option if you need to do them.

 

The good part is...you now know you're valves are excellent, the bad part is...its a chunk of change.

 

If you wanna try to shim em one more time...just have to make sure u are keeping a close eye on them and re-checking the clearance in short order (5-10hrs) to see if they are continuing to move. Once they get through the hard coat, they will be goin downhill fast.

Edited by J_YZ2fittyF

I talked to the guy he said he took it to the shop and the valves were good I'm going to try and start it again without flooding it lol.

The guy said he took it to the shop and valves were good I'm going to try and start it again and try not to flood it lol

If the bike will not start the next time you try to start it pull the plug to determine if you really are flooding it.  If the plug is dry than it may not be getting enough gas especially in cold weather, if that is the case try blipping the throttle several times before trying to start the bike.  Every bike is somewhat different when it comes to starting, unfortunately only experience will give you the knowledge what your bike actually needs to start easily.

Thanks rocky racer I blipped it twice and got top deal center 3 kicks and it was good to go shut off and did it 3 more times fired right up I'm use to having the magic button on my 230 I'm just going to have to get use to it the bike runs really fast.thanks for all the great comments.now to get to carnigie and try some hills

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