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Crf50 ignition switch

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I recently picked up a fairly well used 05 fifty and began the process of repairing, and upgrading it for my 5&7 year olds. Upon close inspection I realized that the OEM key switch had the wires clipped right at the back of the housing. Normally not a big deal but I have no interest in a switch bypass. So I purchased an aftermarket key switch from eBay for a crf50. It looks just like the OEM switch that came out, key and all. If it helps I'm attaching a picture of the packaging. A simple and direct 2 wire setup. It popped right in and the wires were routed with ease. Now for where I get lost. The wires for the switch are solid red and solid black. The package states "off position = closed", and "red position = open". Two wires, right? How hard can it be? Mrs it up, just reverse it. So I plug the black wire into the green found in the boot on the left side and the red into the blk/w. Done, right? Wrong. Turn key "on" and crank, and crank, and crank. Normally it's a one to two kick start every time. Not this time. Turn the key "off", and crank....BAM, it starts. Ok easy fix, right? Wrong again. Reverse the wires. Key "on", crank, crank, crank. Nothing again. Key "off", crank...start. I'm beyond baffled. Is my CDI shot? What exactly am I missing here? It shouldn't be this confusing. The results shouldn't be the same either way you plug the switch in should they? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

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I recently picked up a fairly well used 05 fifty and began the process of repairing, and upgrading it for my 5&7 year olds. Upon close inspection I realized that the OEM key switch had the wires clipped right at the back of the housing. Normally not a big deal but I have no interest in a switch bypass. So I purchased an aftermarket key switch from eBay for a crf50. It looks just like the OEM switch that came out, key and all. If it helps I'm attaching a picture of the packaging. A simple and direct 2 wire setup. It popped right in and the wires were routed with ease. Now for where I get lost. The wires for the switch are solid red and solid black. The package states "off position = closed", and "red position = open". Two wires, right? How hard can it be? Mrs it up, just reverse it. So I plug the black wire into the green found in the boot on the left side and the red into the blk/w. Done, right? Wrong. Turn key "on" and crank, and crank, and crank. Normally it's a one to two kick start every time. Not this time. Turn the key "off", and crank....BAM, it starts. Ok easy fix, right? Wrong again. Reverse the wires. Key "on", crank, crank, crank. Nothing again. Key "off", crank...start. I'm beyond baffled. Is my CDI shot? What exactly am I missing here? It shouldn't be this confusing. The results shouldn't be the same either way you plug the switch in should they? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

CDI won't have anything to do with the wiring.  And if it was shot, you wouldn;t be able to start it in either position.  But yes, one would think it wouldn;t be the same in either position, so I am at a loss for the issue.  Worst case scenario, leave it as is and run the darn thing in the off position.  The issue could be the aftermarket system, or maybe you hooked it up the same way as the first by accident.

 

In any case, you issue is the switch and probably not the bike or its other electrical components.

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I really didn't think the CDI would be an issue, I just couldn't think of anything else in this oh so simple wiring. I kinda figured it might be the keyed switch, but still can't really even see how. On is on, and off is off, circuit on vs. circuit off.....or so it should be. The only prob I have with running the bike in the off position is that I'm likely to lose a key on the trail if snagged since it doesn't stay locked in the cylinder like it would in the on position. Additionally no way to lock/secure the bike from the boys or the neighborhood hooligans without chaining it up

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You have the wrong switch. Some are normal open some are normal closed .factory is no you bought nc

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Buy from dealer and you will get the right one.I bet the wires are smaller gauge also.you get what you pay for.

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Buy from dealer and you will get the right one.I bet the wires are smaller gauge also.you get what you pay for.

Believe it or not, everything, and I mean everything is exactly the same. Even the wires (except for the color). Outside of that it's the whole open/closed circuit switch being backwards. Oh well, thats $20 on the shelf until I find a use for it. Thanks for all the insight guys

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Believe it or not, everything, and I mean everything is exactly the same. Even the wires (except for the color). Outside of that it's the whole open/closed circuit switch being backwards. Oh well, thats $20 on the shelf until I find a use for it. Thanks for all the insight guys

I understand trying to get parts on the cheap.  Trust me, I am a master at it.  And although some folks hate to admit it, there are some very good Chinese made parts out there for the 50s and 70s.  I would recommend looking at TBoltUSA.com and look over there stuff.  It is in between on price compared to OEM and the super cheap unknown Chinese parts you can find on Ebay.  However, they stand by their stuff and have an exceptional tech support for you.

 

Best of luck.

Edited by Go Big Red

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I understand trying to get parts on the cheap. Trust me, I am a master at it. And although some folks hate to admit it, there are some very good Chinese made parts out there for the 50s and 70s. I would recommend looking at TBoltUSA.com and look over there stuff. It is in between on price compared to OEM and the super cheap unknown Chinese parts you can find on Ebay. However, they stand by their stuff and have an exceptional tech support for you.

Best of luck.

Thanks Red. Checking TBolt now.

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