New clutch won't disengage

So I just put a new clutch kit & springs in my 04 250x and a new clutch cable but now the clutch won't disengage. I've adjusted the cables and checked them over,they're fine. The basket has no ridges on it. I ran the bike for 5-10 minutes and worked the clutch lever, this didn't help either. Any ideas what the problem might be? 

Well sounds like something is not together right then.   You have the rod, lifter, needle bearing, and a washer to lifts the plate off the pack; any parts left over?

 

Beyond that, the only other thing that can be wrong is the clutch discs/plates are in wrong.  

 

Jim.

Thanks for the reply Jim.

 

The rod and lifter/bearing/washer are all there I think, apart from the rod it's all one part unless you take it apart isn't it?

 

only things I didn't do was soak the plates for 24hours, i just coated them in oil. I've taken them out to soak for a day now. I also couldn't see which friction plate was the larger Id disc which is supposed to go in first according the the manual, they all looked the same to me? 

 

Thanks again! 

What type of springs did you replace them with ? If they are longer than standard it won't release. Did you pack the clutch plates right ?

The clutch kit I bought was a Mitaka one, so I'm guessing the springs are the same as the OEM ones? is there a way to pack the plates wrong?  I packed the plates like it said to in the manual apart from I couldn't identify the larger friction plate, like I said they all looked the same but I'm going to check them with a micrometer just to be sure. Thanks

They should be the same but I would take a few seconds and measure them to be sure. I have seen a lot of aftermarket stuff slide through QC which was totally out of spec so I usually make a habit of double checking everything.

As long as the first and last plate you installed are friction plates and you sandwiched steel plates between all the rest they should be fine.

So you double checked the perch and all the cable tensioners ?

It's the springs that are the problem I think. They are all 2mm shorter than the limit, don't think I'll be buying Mitaka parts again! I've just ordered a new set of springs which will hopefully sort it out. Thanks for all the help!

Thanks for the reply Jim.

 

The rod and lifter/bearing/washer are all there I think, apart from the rod it's all one part unless you take it apart isn't it?

 

only things I didn't do was soak the plates for 24hours, i just coated them in oil. I've taken them out to soak for a day now. I also couldn't see which friction plate was the larger Id disc which is supposed to go in first according the the manual, they all looked the same to me? 

 

Thanks again! 

 

 

 

So if you installed the judder spring and DIDNT install the disc with the larger ID, that may be the reason why it wont dis engage.

 

Also slightly shorter springs shouldnt cause the clutch to not dis engage.

 

Also make sure there isnt too much freeplay in the lever after you adjust it.

Your new clutch pack likely came with 1 more friction disc than stock? use it and leave the judder spring and washer out.

Hi,

I'm a new member to thumper talk,

I am having the same problem. I have new hinson outer basket and hinson plates and springs. everything else is stock. (Note: I did remove jutter spring and washer per directions)

Clutch will not fully disengage. when idleing clutch pulled it all the way, bike will die within 5 secs.

I raced a hare scramble last weekend, my first, very anoying to have bike die whenever I lost momentum, or pulled of to let a faster rider pass.

any suggestions would be appreciated. I'd like to have the issue resolved by next race,

 

Thanks

A Rekluse auto clutch will fix the stalling problem (I have a Rekluse on my X and like it).

 

But seriously: there are two types of plates plus the two judder spring parts, all need to be in the correct order and orientation for the clutch to work. 

 

First into the basket is the judder flat washer, next is the judder spring. It is a warped washer and the high side on the ID goes against the flat washer, the high side OD faces out. The Service Manual has a nice diagram on page 10-4, the parts are called spring seat and friction spring in Honda speak

 

Next is Clutch Disc B, a friction plate with the large ID, it fits over the judder spring. Then alternating steels and frictions.

A Rekluse auto clutch will fix the stalling problem (I have a Rekluse on my X and like it).

 

But seriously: there are two types of plates plus the two judder spring parts, all need to be in the correct order and orientation for the clutch to work. 

 

First into the basket is the judder flat washer, next is the judder spring. It is a warped washer and the high side on the ID goes against the flat washer, the high side OD faces out. The Service Manual has a nice diagram on page 10-4, the parts are called spring seat and friction spring in Honda speak

 

Next is Clutch Disc B, a friction plate with the large ID, it fits over the judder spring. Then alternating steels and frictions.

Thanks for the tip chuck, but, hinson plate install directions tell you to remove the jutter and flat washer. Hinson fiber plates all look the same and I installed per spec start and end w/fiber alternating fiber then steel.

could the hinson springs or plates have a compatibility issue with my stock inner basket and/or pressure plate?

If you pull the cover off can you see the pressure plate move, and feel the plates get slack when you squeeze the clutch lever?  Also shorter springs than stock spec doesn't mean they are bad.  I ran heavier springs in mine as a 280 and they were shorter springs than stock.  Was the cable for a 250x

Thanks for the tip chuck, but, hinson plate install directions tell you to remove the jutter and flat washer. Hinson fiber plates all look the same and I installed per spec start and end w/fiber alternating fiber then steel.

could the hinson springs or plates have a compatibility issue with my stock inner basket and/or pressure plate?

 

I don't have any experience with the Hinson clutch, but the Rekluse also eliminate the judder plate, spring, and friction.

 

Highmarker suggested a good way to start troubleshooting the cause.

If you pull the cover off can you see the pressure plate move, and feel the plates get slack when you squeeze the clutch lever?  Also shorter springs than stock spec doesn't mean they are bad.  I ran heavier springs in mine as a 280 and they were shorter springs than stock.  Was the cable for a 250x

Thanks I will try pulling the cap and maybe that will shed light on what is happening. If not at least I'll be that much closer to dissasembly if needed.

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