Wheel Brands, Buying and Choosing?

hi guys. regarding my last thread, i thought it might be easiest and best to go to a bike shop or a wheel repair specialist and get my spokes tightened. i rang around, spoke to a few different places. unfortunately where i live, there isn't very many wheel specialists around, there are only 2. 1 of them quoted me $120 just for labour and truing the wheel, the other quoted me $60 which was much better, various other bike shops quoted me between $60-$110.
ended up taking the wheel in to get trued nonetheless, including the front wheel, he said the wheels had various flat spots in them, at least half the spokes/spoke nipples were seized and wouldn't turn and would need to be replaced, i had a little crack in the rear hub and the wheel would need to be rebuilt basically but would cost a lot, we're talking in the $550+ range including the quality parts, just for 1 wheel. the front wheel also had flat spots that would need to be fixed plus truing and re-lacing, will work out to about $180 odd. he said a 10 year old wheel, he wouldn't recommend spending so much money on anyway and that a 10 year old wheel generally have all these issues from wear and tear/old age. so i told him i would just get new wheels instead.

it'd be almost cheaper for me to buy brand new complete wheel sets, that's the option im going with and prefer nonetheless. im wondering what brands are best, or that i should look out for/consider?
i know there's Excel, D.I.D. Tusk and Sm Pro which ive been looking at, ive heard Excel is probably the best quality i could get but very expensive, but what do others think of Tusk or SM Pro? or are there any other brands that are really great quality? i don't want to settle for anything too cheap and i want strong quality rims.

i do a fair bit of woods riding, over logs, rocks usually do some moderate jumps, etc so i need something that will hold up relatively well.
 

 

Some like tusk. I've looked at them but have not decided for or against them.

hmm. i was leaning towards either the Tusk or the SM Pro

hmm. i was leaning towards either the Tusk or the SM Pro

Somebody else just bought tusk sets here a couple months ago. Do a search then pm them to see what they think.

Somebody else just bought tusk sets here a couple months ago. Do a search then pm them to see what they think.

 

 

excel A60 lased to a talon hub with dubya kite butted spokes is the only way to do it but $$$

an excel takasago lased to a talon hub with normal spokes is acceptable

an did ltx or stx rim is also a good choice.

 

everything else is heavier and or weaker than stock.

but the first one i said, stronger, lighter, better, eventually ill buy some wheels like this.

How about dna wheels? Made from 7100 aluminium with t6 forged talon hubs?

Edited by pdee4t

How about dna wheels? Made from 7100 with t6 forged hubs?

My question is how much stronger do you personally need a wheel to be?

How long did the factory wheels last?

How long you going to keep the bike?

Is it viable to spend the extra between the excel and the tusk?

Preferably just as strong, if not, stronger.

I do a lot of jumps with hard landing and do a lot of woods riding over logs, knocked down tree stumps and rocks, so it's preferable that they are somewhat decent/strong.
Im going to have the bike for a very long time to come considering i only bought the bike 7 months ago and it's still new to me. i love my bike and don't plan on getting rid of it or selling it anytime soon.
The factory wheels lasted about 7 months from when I bought the bike and I am willing to spend the extra money if it means quality.

 

Also, nothing else matters to me, im getting new wheels regardless, don't care about cost IF it means quality. im adamant about that and only really wanted to know what wheels out of the ones i mentioned i should get, apart from the Excel.

 

I have just sourced up some DNA wheels with talon hubs before, for a relatively good price of $750 which i am now highly considering, they're made from 7000 series alloy and Billet 6061-T6 alloy spool type hub or else if not them im considering the tusk or the SM Pro...but im not sure how they fair up to the excel which is all i really wanted to know.

Edited by pdee4t

If you can reuse the OEM hub, use it. That's the lightest you are going to get and honestly, I've never seen a OEM hub shatter . I guess they will if you completely neglect wheel maintenance, but that's your fault anyway. The reason aftermarket companies use billet parts Is because cast is hella expensive, and hella hard to get right. Resources which only the OEM manufacturers have.

If you can reuse the OEM hub, use it. That's the lightest you are going to get and honestly, I've never seen a OEM hub shatter . I guess they will if you completely neglect wheel maintenance, but that's your fault anyway. The reason aftermarket companies use billet parts Is because cast is hella expensive, and hella hard to get right. Resources which only the OEM manufacturers have.

hmm. so in that case i might just goto the ktm dealership and buy a new set of wheels from them. excel rims with oem hubs

My question is how much stronger do you personally need a wheel to be?

How long did the factory wheels last?

How long you going to keep the bike?

Is it viable to spend the extra between the excel and the tusk?

I run sm pro hubs with bull dog spokes laced to sm pro platinum rims I ride trail's and would say that the wheels with the correct maintenance will out last the bike.

I would recommend excel and talon hub for rear. Excel rim for front.

KTM have been known to crack rear hubs. I was warned to watch mine on the 440. I'm still debating a second bike.

Street legal of course.

Some of the posts in here are not very credible.  As stated by one member above.  Get some new rims and an oversized bulldog nipple/spoke combo.  Relace them using your stock hubs.  This is what many ama privateers and even some high level teams such as geico were doing wheels this way.  Some even have the stock hubs turned down to remove casting marks and then get the annodized or powder coated etc.  Do not but DNA wheels!  You will pay dearly for that mistake and be right back at square one.  

Some of the posts in here are not very credible. As stated by one member above. Get some new rims and an oversized bulldog nipple/spoke combo. Relace them using your stock hubs. This is what many ama privateers and even some high level teams such as geico were doing wheels this way. Some even have the stock hubs turned down to remove casting marks and then get the annodized or powder coated etc. Do not but DNA wheels! You will pay dearly for that mistake and be right back at square one.

In the same boat, looking at DNAs because of the price on EBay. Another opinion I was considering was a company called FasterUsa@ http://www.fasterusa.com , they can use your current oem hubs and spokes and put them on a new notako or for more cash on a A60. Anybody used this company before? Edited by dj1

Some of the posts in here are not very credible. As stated by one member above. Get some new rims and an oversized bulldog nipple/spoke combo. Relace them using your stock hubs. This is what many ama privateers and even some high level teams such as geico were doing wheels this way. Some even have the stock hubs turned down to remove casting marks and then get the annodized or powder coated etc. Do not but DNA wheels! You will pay dearly for that mistake and be right back at square one.

If you'd read the op.

You would realize he has a cracked rear hub. This is unfortunately a common KTM issue.

This is why I recommended just a talon for the rear only.

I've never cracked a front hub personally. But have been through a few rears before and have taco'd four rims! Especially from hopping logs and rocks.

I ran talon and excel on my race bikes before.

when i upgraded to a newer bike, I took wheels over to the new bike. Its a good bit of money for the set.

I'm interested in knowing about the tusk.

The reason I asked about the need for strength is I believe it to be a waste for a trail rider to spend a couple grand on rims to trail ride.

I've seen posts on here about the dna's losing their color. ??? I have never owned a set of dna's.

If you'd read the op.

You would realize he has a cracked rear hub. This is unfortunately a common KTM issue.

This is why I recommended just a talon for the rear only.

I've never cracked a front hub personally. But have been through a few rears before and have taco'd four rims! Especially from hopping logs and rocks.

I ran talon and excel on my race bikes before.

when i upgraded to a newer bike, I took wheels over to the new bike. Its a good bit of money for the set.

I'm interested in knowing about the tusk.

The reason I asked about the need for strength is I believe it to be a waste for a trail rider to spend a couple grand on rims to trail ride.

I've seen posts on here about the dna's losing their color. ??? I have never owned a set of dna's.

 

There's a review in the latest MotoCross Action mag about those wheelsets(Tusk). Cutting to the chase, all the testers ultimately really liked them, albeit a little heavier. Heavier is ok with me....that translates to sturdier and for woods riding I'd rather have sturdier. I did check out the recommended buying site, but they are out until March or so.

 

For the money, I am going to keep on this, would really like to have a set.

Edited by Signman606

You get what you pay for, go with excel.

I don't know about the shops you have, but here there is Woodys Wheel Works and they do thicker stainless steel spokes with what they call Super Lace.  Never needs adjusting, strong as hell & I think it cost me 120 bucks & they even removed & put the tired back on.  (which I despise doing)  

Edited by Toylee_roosta

i think the bulldog and monster spokes are silly check out dubya.

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