2011 DRZ400S leaking fuel badly!

Good evening gents,

 

About a year ago I added a Clark oversized tank on my totally stock 400S. All was well for about a thousand miles, and on a long trip across Western Washington state, things decided to go haywire with the fuel system.

 

My fiance and I checked into a hotel, and woke up the next morning to a huge puddle of fuel under the bike! I was leaking out of the air box, had filled up the cylinder which hydro locked when I tried to turn it over.... I'm an equipment mechanic by trade, so I'm very mechanically inclined. I got all the fuel out of the cylinder, took the petcock apart and inspected it. The diaphragm looked good, the float didn't appear stuck, the needle valve is pristine and actuates like it should. I got her back together and we rode 300+ miles back home. It would flood if I left it sitting (not running), so every time we stopped I'd put some needle nose vicegrips on the fuel line.

 

So I let it sit in my garage for a month or so (bad weather) I decided to take the vice grips off and see what happens.. Sure enough, it did the same thing.

 

I have the petcock off and apart, and the carb turned sideways with the bowl off for another look. Everything seems to be absolutely perfect. I have no clue what the problem is.

 

My questions to my fellow Zuk people is: With the fuel line off the carb, if I keep the petcock in the ON position should I get fuel running? I wouldn't think so since it's vacuum operated. Am I wrong? It flows fairly freely. Possibly a bad diaphragm?

 

Thanks in advance for any advice/help! Love this place!

 

Regards,

 

Chris 

No you should not have fuel coming out the petcock in the on position if no vacuum is present .

 

At this point some try and rebuild, some replace with a new OEM style vacuum petcock, some replace with a manual petcock.. OEM Suzuki, OEM Other, aftermarket (Pingel or ebay china )

Thanks, that's what I figured. Looks like a new diaphragm is in order. 

 

If my float is working properly, shouldn't it not allow fuel to pass through? Or is the gravity of a few gallons enough to over power the needle? 

 

Much appreciated!

 

regards,

 

Chris

Thanks, that's what I figured. Looks like a new diaphragm is in order. 

 

If my float is working properly, shouldn't it not allow fuel to pass through? Or is the gravity of a few gallons enough to over power the needle? 

 

Much appreciated!

 

regards,

 

Chris

In  a perfect world, the needle and seat would stop the flow of gas from the tank.. But for as long as motorcycles have had fuel valves and folks have been leaving them on (or Auto ones have been leaking) fuel has been sneaking past needles and seats that otherwise work great while the motor is running.

Well thanks again E.Marquez. I really appreciate it!

 

Regards,

 

Chris

Its a very commone problem that happens to ALOT of DRZ owners,   when it happend to me i replaced the O-Ring on the valve seat in the carb,  and replaced the vacume operated petcock with a ebay $10 yamaha raptor on/off/reserve style petcock,  i turn the fuel to OFF when im not riding. 

I have a manual peacock, but often forget for a few hours then run out and turn it off. Should I ever experience the flooded engine syndrome. I will be first inline for an VCR with overflow protection. That alone is enough to justify the case for an VCR. I would much rather have the puddle on the floor than on the floor and in my crank case.

Thanks for the input guys! I didn't know this was such a common problem. I plan on selling the bike in the very near future to get something more suitable for two people. Do you think replacing the diaphragm will be a good fix for the interim? I already ordered it from ebay ($19)! I should have just got a Raptor petcock.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

"I have a manual peacock, but often forget for a few hours then run out and turn it off. Should I ever experience the flooded engine syndrome. I will be first inline for an VCR with overflow protection. That alone is enough to justify the case for an VCR. I would much rather have the puddle on the floor than on the floor and in my crank case."

Flipping spell check... FCR

Do you think replacing the diaphragm will be a good fix for the interim? I already ordered it from ebay ($19)! I should have just got a Raptor petcock.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

 

Rebuiding the petcock might do the trick. However, a honest man will address his needle valve issue, before selling. You likely have a bad valve seat o-ring. The needle valve tip could also be worn, but most times it's the o-ring.

You'll need the o-ring that 150ron mentioned. It fits under the needle valve SEAT and has been an issue for many, me included.

I'll go out on a limb and say it is the number one reason for hydro-lock/flooding of these engines

Edited by shuswap1

I'll definitely change it out. I'd hate to pass this issue on to someone else. Thanks again for all the help guys!

 

Regards,

 

Chris

Edited by CDennyRun

I'll definitely change it out. Probably something my local Suzuki dealer would have I would assume.

Possibly, but not likely.. They will have to order it in most cases.

 

Or order on line

Possibly, but not likely.. They will have to order it in most cases.

 

Or order on line

 

That's kind of a bummer. I'm not home to look at it.. Can I remove it from the bottom, like with a dental tool? Or do I have to actually pull the carb?

That's kind of a bummer. I'm not home to look at it.. Can I remove it from the bottom, like with a dental tool? Or do I have to actually pull the carb?

Not a lot of room between the carb bottom and the motor. I've never tried it, so not sure... but me... i'd pull the carb and do the job on the bench where I can stand up straight and have good light.

You might be able to do it without taking it off. I couldn't get the screws for my throttle cables off when I jetted my 2012 so i just spun the carb sideways in the boot and did it in place.

I'd agree with Mr. Marquez, it would be awful tough without removing the carb....but then Dr. D has been successful. 

I picked up an o-ring at the local auto parts store, they had a good selection of rings that are OK for fuel immersion. That was 2 years ago. These leaks are a fire hazard and do your engine no favors. That said, might change mine out again this year......

I'd agree with Mr. Marquez, it would be awful tough without removing the carb....but then Dr. D has been successful. 

I picked up an o-ring at the local auto parts store, they had a good selection of rings that are OK for fuel immersion. That was 2 years ago. These leaks are a fire hazard and do your engine no favors. That said, might change mine out again this year......

I'l give it quick shot and see if it's worth it. I'll pull her if I have to! Ha ha

You might be able to do it without taking it off. I couldn't get the screws for my throttle cables off when I jetted my 2012 so i just spun the carb sideways in the boot and did it in place.

That's exactly what I was hoping I could get away with!

Quick update for those still following: The needle valve seat was very accessible without removing the carburetor. You can loosen everything up and turn it sideways and have plenty of access.

 

The O-ring was hard as a rock, and broke instantly when I tried to remove it. I have a new diaphragm on the way from Ebay (I read some people couldn't find them so I provided a link below)

 

 

Thanks again for all the help folks!

 

Regards,

 

Chris

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Petcock-Diaphragm-Suzuki-DRZ400-GSF600-GSF1200-Bandit-/291081378367?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43c5cd5a3f&vxp=mtr 

AhHa.....methinks you have found the source of your leak. That's what my o-ring looked like too.

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