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Are there any special tricks for forks with remote reservoirs? 2007 KTM 250XC

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I'm kind of the resident grease monkey for the guys I ride with.  One of my friends blew out a fork seal today on his 2007 KTM 250 XC. I've gotten pretty good at changing fork seals from riding at RRMT in Muenster, TX.  Even with shock socks, it's a sandy mess out there, and sometimes you just can't help it.  But this guys bike has SMS suspension on it with a remote reservoir at the top of the forks.  I've never seen that before (guess I'm just not that fancy HAHA).  My question is, when I go to change the seals, are there any special things I need to do regarding remote reservoirs?  Do I need to remove them, fill them separately, just pump the fork like normal to fill them up??? I'm at a loss here. 

 

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

BR

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Ok, so I'd still measure the oil the same, from the tube down to the oil level?  Would slowly pumping the rod like normal fill up the remote reservoir as well?

 

And thanks for the reply BTW.

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No, leave them empty - they are for air, not oil. Oil will get into them and should bleed back, but not always. Measure oil height the same way. More can be added but isn't necessary - just another tuning option with sub tanks.

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No, leave them empty - they are for air, not oil. Oil will get into them and should bleed back, but not always. Measure oil height the same way. More can be added but isn't necessary - just another tuning option with sub tanks.

 

yep, you are right.  I emailed SMS who did the suspension, and they told me the same thing.  Thanks for the advice.

 

Since you seem to know about these, do they really do that much for you?  They were on the bike when my buddy got it, and I've never once had a bike that had them.  I've had LCS, and Pro Circuit do suspension for me before, and they never added those things.  Is it just because KTM suspension needs that much help?

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They were popular a few years ago, but no so much any more. I bought used sets cheap when everyone was taking them off, and I honestly haven't bothered installing them on either of the intended bikes. I'd recommend starting with a rebuild and removing them. Get everything else sorted first via conventional tuning, then add them back on to see if they're worth it. The hoses are easy enough to remove from the air bleed holes, and a traditional bleed valve put back in, without removing the tanks themselves. Barely takes more time than messing with clickers.

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