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CRF X Linkage bearing change

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Gents

I am midway thro changing the bearings in my rear suspn linkages and have come against a problem!

The triangle linkage was no problem but the fork linkage that attaches to the frame I cannot get into the bearings to press/tap them out as they are pressed into a machined recess. Is this a dealer only job? I'm guessing they may have a special puller to do it? I'm using an OEM bearing kit as well.

Also for the future how often do people strip/clean/relube them? The book says 7.5hrs riding is that reasonable? The needles in it were absolutely foo barred when I got it after an initial strip to check and don't want to go there again!

Finally my forks have quite a lot of initial stiction but are quite plush when moving. I have K Tech seals which is the only non OEM bits and I'm running fresh 310 ml  5w oil on the std 4,12 N/mm springs. It seems like the forks don't slide well initially for soft impacts. When you push on the seat near the tank the back always moves first with the forks only moving if you have some weight on the bike and then it seems to be ok. The clickers are set to std and I have tried softening the comp but it still seems sticky any ideas?

2011 CRF 250 X

Cheers in advance

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I used a kit like this.

http://pitposse.com/poblbebrpuse.html

a bench vise is also handy since the components a small and can be difficult to keep steady.

harbor freight has a set much cheaper ...but it only has the slide hammer and the bridge in the kit shown makes a huge difference in ease of removal, Can also be used for wheel bearings and many other jobs. It is well worth the investment in my opinion.

 

sorry TT wont allow the pic use link provided to see kit.

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As for the static stiction - have you aligned your forks recently?  There's a great writeup on BrucesSuspension.com   All the usual stuff plus one extra tidbit I had never seen before.  Sometimes 2 fully setup forks arent quite the same length.  So before aligning them - make sure you set the height of the forks in the upper triple so that the axle has the least resistance when turning the axle in your hand.

 

That was the missing piece that allowed me to plush my forks to the max.  

 

I also run fork subtanks which plush it up that much more. 

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Gents

I am midway thro changing the bearings in my rear suspn linkages and have come against a problem!

The triangle linkage was no problem but the fork linkage that attaches to the frame I cannot get into the bearings to press/tap them out as they are pressed into a machined recess. Is this a dealer only job? I'm guessing they may have a special puller to do it? I'm using an OEM bearing kit as well.

Also for the future how often do people strip/clean/relube them? The book says 7.5hrs riding is that reasonable? The needles in it were absolutely foo barred when I got it after an initial strip to check and don't want to go there again!

Finally my forks have quite a lot of initial stiction but are quite plush when moving. I have K Tech seals which is the only non OEM bits and I'm running fresh 310 ml  5w oil on the std 4,12 N/mm springs. It seems like the forks don't slide well initially for soft impacts. When you push on the seat near the tank the back always moves first with the forks only moving if you have some weight on the bike and then it seems to be ok. The clickers are set to std and I have tried softening the comp but it still seems sticky any ideas?

2011 CRF 250 X

Cheers in advance

For the bearings, use heat.  if you have a MAPGAS torch, that helps.  I had the same issue until I warmed them up quite a bit and then they pressed out.  As for forks, Duke has some good advise and  nice reference.  Are you sure the sliders are not damaged?

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I'm not certain about this, but I THINK I remember having to use a punch THROUGH one side to tap out the opposite bearing.  Those bearings DO sit in a recess.  I was surprised how difficult it was to replace ALL those bearings!  Good luck..................

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Try lots of heat once the grease starts to smoke quite good give it a sharp bang down on to your work bench and they will prity much just fall out done several this way works for me.with the forks I use crf R seals in my X forks the x seals have 3 lips on the seal to leg face the R seals have 2 lips and you get less stiction hope this helps.

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I'm not certain about this, but I THINK I remember having to use a punch THROUGH one side to tap out the opposite bearing.  Those bearings DO sit in a recess.  I was surprised how difficult it was to replace ALL those bearings!  Good luck..................

you might be recalling the joys of removing the top bearing on the shock and finding out after a day of beating the damn thing that the clip needs removed and they come out in one direction (not the band).  Oh wait, that was me recalling removing that bearing a few years back.  :lol:  I think my sons learned a few cuss words that winter.

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