Look what followed me home!

After a month of scanning craigslist I finally got my first bike,its a 2003 Ktm 250 sx. The bike has 40 hours on it,The old guy I bought it from bought it new for trail riding and had a stroke so he no longer rides. i did my home work and went over everything and shes near new. starts first kick from cold no seals leaking and motor sounds good to me. alot more power then i expected from a dirt bike.

 

i only have a few concerns,im new to 2 strokes so what are bad noises to listen for? i just dont know what im looking for.

 

The other thing is that the clutch seems to drag, its hard to start in gear and lurches a bit. it also stalls when in gear sitting, if i put it in nutral it will idle fine but not in gear. i also feel drag when clutch is in and im pushing the bike in gear.

 

stabal was used in the tanks and it has been in his storage unit for 4 years. i drained everything in the tank befor running and used fresh gas but i bet the carbs need a clean.  normally the clutch would be a no brainer but this bike has a hydrolic clutch.

 

Thanks guys and Im glad to be part of the community.IMG_20140214_103250.jpg0140214_121742.jpgCYMERA_20140214_184407.jpg

I have had bikes that the clutch sticks in when you first start them. You may need to bleed the clutch lines of air is maybe an idea to try. As for the gas you can clean the carb but if it starts and runs fine I would just run fresh gas with some sea foam thru in. If it starts running worse you can always pull the carb and clean it. congrats on the new bike always fun to find a good clean bike. someone hasn't rode much

You have a very dangerous and some serious bike there.

Try adjusting the engaging pin of the clutch perch so it pushes more fliud thru the the hydraulic clutch.

As stated just sounds like it may need some adjustment but..........never try and adjust or base any opinions on the way a clutch acts when cold. The bike must be warmed up and not just from idling, you need to warm up the clutch by riding it. Common to have issues when they are cold.

 

Replacing the clutch fluid would be a good idea as it is likely contaminated with moisture.

 

Most bikes will drag if you try pushing them in gear with the clutch in but it should idle in gear with the clutch in for sure.

clutch drag is pretty normal.  It's the rare dirt bike that does not do it, and almost all bikes drag when pushed in gear, warm or not.  Change the oil and ride it a bit, and see how it is then.

 

That's a fine looking bike you picked up!!!!

Edited by rpt50

Nice bike! I had one for a bit, my advice is be careful and hold on tight. Crazy powerful engine in that model. In fact, it was too much for me to feel comfortable on, I sold mine after a couple of rides.

As mentioned above, most bikes have clutch drag. It's very normal for a bike to not want to roll in gear with the clutch pulled in. I'd ride it for a bit and give it some fresh oil. Sometimes the plates stick together after they have been sitting for a while.

I have had bikes that the clutch sticks in when you first start them. You may need to bleed the clutch lines of air is maybe an idea to try. As for the gas you can clean the carb but if it starts and runs fine I would just run fresh gas with some sea foam thru in. If it starts running worse you can always pull the carb and clean it. congrats on the new bike always fun to find a good clean bike. someone hasn't rode much

 

I rejetted my 300 last week and for the first time after a rejetting job, it would NOT start.  I kicked til my leg was a noodle.  So I bump started it down the driveway, it choked and sputtered then ripped to life.  The clutch was dragging more than ever before, I mean really dragging!!  To the point I pulled it in the first time and almost no clutch disengagement took place.

 

After riding around the block it was back to normal.  I guess the clutch plates were cold, and having bump started it, the plates were even more "stuck" together.  I always say that you judge everything based on regular conditions, so warm the bike up before making any judgements about its mechanical condition.

I had a 2003 250sx for a few years. Here is the jetting chart for it.

03250sxJettingChart.jpg

It becomes much easer to ride if you jet it properly. Mine ran very fat on the bottom and then when it cleaned out in the midrange it hit hard. Once I got the bottom end leaned out so it wouldn't blubber it mellowed out the midrange hit and made the bike much easer to ride fast. The bike really responds well to jetting changes. Even if you ride at the same place all the time you need to change the jetting for the temperature. I found that the jetting chart was pretty good but I always seemed to be one size smaller on the idle jet and 1/2 turn more air screw than the jetting chart says.

I ran 52:1 with pump gas (Chevron 91) in my bike. You may find it a bit different if you run a different ratio or with different gas.

Check the top shock bolt often. They had a problem coming loose. I had one fall out at a race once. It will ruin your day.

Great bike. You will love it.

Edited by Larry63r

As for taming the beast, if it becomes necessary, I have found that throttle cam systems work well on my 09 sx.  I would rate taming methods as follows:

1. throttle cam system (about $100 and excellent bang for buck)

2. fat jetting (free, but you do get occasional fouled plugs).  Effective for reducing "snap" if you ride a lot of tight stuff.

.3. Flywheel weight (one of my favorite woods bike mods, but surprisingly little effect on my 09 sx)

4. hockey stick exhaust (very low cost used, nice sound reduction, but increased weight)

 

Another great mod was the db Snorkel sound reduction device, but it is no longer available, but may be available used.  It works great for sound reduction, and also smooths the power, which is great for mud races.  It looks hideous however. 

As for taming the beast, if it becomes necessary, I have found that throttle cam systems work well on my 09 sx.  I would rate taming methods as follows:

1. throttle cam system (about $100 and excellent bang for buck)

2. fat jetting (free, but you do get occasional fouled plugs).  Effective for reducing "snap" if you ride a lot of tight stuff.

.3. Flywheel weight (one of my favorite woods bike mods, but surprisingly little effect on my 09 sx)

4. hockey stick exhaust (very low cost used, nice sound reduction, but increased weight)

 

Another great mod was the db Snorkel sound reduction device, but it is no longer available, but may be available used.  It works great for sound reduction, and also smooths the power, which is great for mud races.  It looks hideous however. 

my first thing was going to be fly wheel weight, i will be doing alot of trail riding. it has a fmf core 2 so do you think thats good?

The silencer will be fine, but make sure you have a Spark Arrestor (turbine core) if it is required in your area.

Regarding the FWW, all I can tell you is that I found the throttle cam system (I used a G2) to be more beneficial than the FWW on my 09.  They both cost about $100, so if you just buy one, I would recommend the cam system.  I use the most extreme cam (400 I think).  It still allows full throttle if you turn it all the way, but it allows much better throttle control at less than full throttle. 

One other suggestion that I forgot in my first post was to "gear up".  I have several friends who swear by adding a tooth to the front sprocket when using an MX bike in the woods/trails.  Very cheap--maybe $15.  I've ridden their bikes and it works fine.

 

I would just put some hours on your bike first however, and maybe switch off with some other guys (I'm sure you will find a lot of people on the trail that would like a turn on an 03 sx).  Riding some other bikes and putting some hours on yours will give you a better feel for what you need.

After a month of scanning craigslist I finally got my first bike,its a 2003 Ktm 250 sx. The bike has 40 hours on it,The old guy I bought it from bought it new for trail riding and had a stroke so he no longer rides. i did my home work and went over everything and shes near new. starts first kick from cold no seals leaking and motor sounds good to me. alot more power then i expected from a dirt bike.

 

i only have a few concerns,im new to 2 strokes so what are bad noises to listen for? i just dont know what im looking for.

 

The other thing is that the clutch seems to drag, its hard to start in gear and lurches a bit. it also stalls when in gear sitting, if i put it in nutral it will idle fine but not in gear. i also feel drag when clutch is in and im pushing the bike in gear.

 

stabal was used in the tanks and it has been in his storage unit for 4 years. i drained everything in the tank befor running and used fresh gas but i bet the carbs need a clean.  normally the clutch would be a no brainer but this bike has a hydrolic clutch.

 

Thanks guys and Im glad to be part of the community.attachicon.gifIMG_20140214_103250.jpgattachicon.gif0140214_121742.jpgattachicon.gifCYMERA_20140214_184407.jpg

 

Second picture......VERY happy rider ( Priceless ). congrats on the nice bike.

 

Joe

Nice bike, hold on tight though, those 03 250 sx bikes are screamers! 

I have an 02 250sx. I will probably keep that bike forever. In my mind one of the finest bikes ever made. On my 02, for the woods, i dropped 1 size on pilot to clean it up in low revs and to keep it from loading up on long downhills. Read up on your powervalve adjustment procedures. For your bike, drop 1 tooth on front sprocket for trail riding . 13/48 is ok . You need to gear down on a mx bike for woods use , not up. SX bikes are motocross machines, high strung and very very powerful,,,they have a tall first gear. Hence,,the need to slow her down on the trail. Run any quality premix oil at 50:1 with 93 pump gas,,,you dont need bi race fuel for trail use. Congrats on buying a great machine. Take it easy and get used to that engine ! it is one of the most powerful. 250 engines ever built. Youll love that bike. Enjoy

I have an 02 250sx. I will probably keep that bike forever. In my mind one of the finest bikes ever made. On my 02, for the woods, i dropped 1 size on pilot to clean it up in low revs and to keep it from loading up on long downhills. Read up on your powervalve adjustment procedures. For your bike, drop 1 tooth on front sprocket for trail riding . 13/48 is ok . You need to gear down on a mx bike for woods use , not up. SX bikes are motocross machines, high strung and very very powerful,,,they have a tall first gear. Hence,,the need to slow her down on the trail. Run any quality premix oil at 50:1 with 93 pump gas,,,you dont need bi race fuel for trail use. Congrats on buying a great machine. Take it easy and get used to that engine ! it is one of the most powerful. 250 engines ever built. Youll love that bike. Enjoy

Thanks man and im glad you guys like it, I was expecting to get ridicule for buying the bike that ended magraths career  

You wont find much ridicule here . There are jerks everywhere. You dont have to spend $8000 to have a great bike.and youve definetly got one there .

Congrats on the bike! I recently got my first bike as well.

If your silencer doesnt have a sparky in it and your interested in a hockeystick, let me know. I have a freshly repacked one in great condition that I bought years ago for my 2006 200xcw and never used it. Repacked it thinking I was going to use it on my 2012 250 xcw, but they changed the stinger size. Give me a pm, I will let it go cheap as we are in the midst of moving and I have no use for it.

So to answer your original questions, first bleed your clutch. Simply open the bleeder at the bottom, open the master cylinder at the lever (clean it out with a q-tip if its dirty in there, then open the bleeder) then simply fill the master and it will flow out the bottom. No need to pump and release like brakes.

Then change your oil with a good quality full synthetic oil,(not getting into an oil thread here but I use Shell Rotella T6).

You shouldn't have any sticking clutch problems even when cold if everything is right. You just need to get the bugs out of her.

Nice bike, enjoy!

So to answer your original questions, first bleed your clutch. Simply open the bleeder at the bottom, open the master cylinder at the lever (clean it out with a q-tip if its dirty in there, then open the bleeder) then simply fill the master and it will flow out the bottom. No need to pump and release like brakes.

Then change your oil with a good quality full synthetic oil,(not getting into an oil thread here but I use Shell Rotella T6).

You shouldn't have any sticking clutch problems even when cold if everything is right. You just need to get the bugs out of her.

Nice bike, enjoy!

it worked! clutch is perfect now! thank you so much.

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