honda crf230 f/l motor swap

I am looking at swapping out my done for 230l motor out with a 230f motor. Would anyone here happen to know if the bolt pattern and electrical connectors on the crf230l and the crf230f engines are the same?

Any insight or info will be greatly appreciated.

I suspect that not one engine mount nor electrical connection will be the same.  The L is made in Japan and the F is made in Brazil.  With enough perseverance, anything can be made to fit.  You might be better off buying parts to rebuild.  IMHO

 

 

Start here:

http://rickramsey.net/CRF230L.htm

 

Then go here to look up parts and see similarities/differences:

http://www.discounthondaparts.com/

 

Take lots of pictures and notes; they'll make a good report for posting on TT.

 

:ride:

How DONE is the motor? Just put a piston Ina and do a valve job, back in business.

If you have actually worn out a 250l motor and F close ratio gearbox motor would not last long for you riding.

it just needs a standard rebuild, but my understanding is the F model has a wee bit more power, also parts for the f are cheaper, and easier to find (new and used) being that the F has been in production much longer with relatively little change. The crf230L was only produced 08-09. 

It may not be that worn out. That L motor should be good for 20,000 miles. Heck it is a street bike motor.

To buy the tools and parts to hone the bore of my top end and change the rings I think it cost around $100. I don't remember exactly but I do remember it cost just over $30 just for the parts. You do have some options to consider. You could also consider boring up 10cc as another option. I didn't because I like my bike to be dependable and I'm no engineer nor have experience with boring so I don't know if that would wear out the gearbox quicker.

well I changed my oil every 1000 miles I was 150 miles over due for an oil change... NO OIL... I need a new connecting rod piston and wrist pin, and thats as far as I dug into the motor and good ole honda (from what I understand) you cannot simply replace the rod you have to replace the whole crank and rod... which since it melted aluminum might be better off. still odd that it had some compression after that and would still fire on eather for 2-3 hits. but I am hoping that I dont find too many metal chips in the motor I dont wish to replace every bearing and seal in the thing.

So yeah I wish it just needed honed and new rings haha. I have learned an expensive lesson and will be checking my oil every single time I go to fire the thing up.

Recommend to replace the oil pump while your in there at the same time

Could save you some future headaches.

Recommend to replace the oil pump while your in there at the same time

Could save you some future headaches.

thanks for the heads up, that was one part I wasnt looking into replacing. would anyone on here happen to know what size press is typically used for pressing out cylinder sleeves?

Cannot be pressed unless someone has bored out existing and replaced with an aftermarket sleeve. (Highly doubt it)

Wossner pistons makes oversize to 67.5 mm

BBR makes a 67mm piston

If yours is so shot out or broken the whole cylinder will need replacement.

If that's the case then may I recommend a Wiesco HC piston assy to go along with your new cylinder?

Well then I suppose that means I will have to cut some metal after all. And I have asked my buddy to take a look at the cylinder again to see if there are any really deep gouges + half MM and he says there isn't anything that looks like gouges, just massive build up of aluminum on the walls.

I suspect that you will be able to bore and hone to an oversize piston.

CAREFULLY use some Muriatic acid to remove the aluminum from the liner before boring. DO NOT BREATH THE FUMES!! Do not get any on any part of the cylinder except the cast iron sleeve.

BE VERY CAREFUL use rubber gloves and eye protection. Do this out doors with plenty of fresh air!!!

This acid will destroy any aluminum it touches!!! (And you if you breath it)

Edited by adnohguy

It looks like I can take .5 mm steps up to 67.50mm with pro-x pistons I'm going to be going to my friends house to bring it home with me so I can start working with cleaning up the sleeve to see if i can get away with just stepping up .5. im hoping and thinking (from what I remember) i will be able to just step .5 (wishing) i could go with the wiseco HC but budget says no.

I suspect that you will be able to bore and hone to an oversize piston.

CAREFULLY use some Muriatic acid to remove the aluminum from the liner before boring. DO NOT BREATH THE FUMES!! Do not get any on any part of the cylinder except the cast iron sleeve.

BE VERY CAREFUL use rubber gloves and eye protection. Do this out doors with plenty of fresh air!!!

This acid will destroy any aluminum it touches!!! (And you if you breath it)

any idea what strength of Muriatic acid would be best, I've used this in cleaning pH probes in a waste treatment plant:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_206474-34228-CR.MA.P.01_0__?productId=3024039&Ntt=muriatic+acid&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dmuriatic%2Bacid&facetInfo=

I use the swimming pool stuff right out of the gallon jug with a small acid brush and dab it on the problem area then rinse with plenty of cold water from the garden hose.

After doing the acid thing once it is clean rinse it in a water and baking soda bath to neutralize the acid.

Oh never thought about baking soda...good idea! (Especially if you have to order a piston)

I usually try to stock pistons and just start with a light hone to check specs (or put it in the boring bar if it's obviously damaged...)

(Recently had a problem with 2-3 drops of water in the 17mm hex nut below the main jet of my 30mm XR250 carb.

(Bone head for not checking it regularly. )

Had some minor amount of aluminum transferred from the carb side of the piston to the cylinder on a long hard, fast and steep hill climb at Carnegie...(Damn, hate it when that happens)

Did a Light hone to check size again.

A hot soapy water bath afterwards.

Follow that up with compressed air and liberal shot of WD 40.

New piston, new oil pump for good measure, clean centrifugal oil filter, flush oil galley in crankshaft, Reassembly, rode it again the next weekend, over and over, same hill, hard!

All better now :-)

An Expensive reminder/lesson....

Thanks for all the info. I will report back on how it goes.

... now I just need to make some space to work on it.

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