Need help wiring all my electronics to a total loss system

[Bazuka Joe]

im a little over my head what it comes to electricity haha

 

bike is a 07 kx250f being converted to a street supermoto but that's kind of irrelevant considering im running a total loss lighting system. 

I have already ordered everything including,

hp vision headlight

tail  light assembly

tusk control switch

mini stalk rear signals

led relay

trail tech vapor

horn

hydraulic brake switch 

 

my power source I think is going to be a 12v 10ah nicd battery, if my math is correct I should get atleast an hour of usable light per battery before the headlight would start to dim. 

 

I know this is fairly simple stuff, but I want a clean factory look. im going to have to buy wire obviously and am not sure what gauge wire I should be using for this. im not sure where im going to mount the battery yet, its not huge but I think I can fit it behind the headlight assembly without too much of a hassle.

 

if someone could help shed some light on how I should go about this, that would be great. any input/advice is welcome!

[Bazuka Joe]

Im also confused on how I should go about connecting all the wires. is it ok to connect all the wires somehow and ground them out to the same place? same with the power?

[6 Riders]

Do yourself a favor, buy the whole Tusk conversion kit and add a headlight. I wired my KDX from scratch and in the long run, it is cheaper and MUCH easier to use these kits.

[Wild Alaskan]

generally the frame is used as the -/ground wire. put a fuse off of the positive side of the battery rout it through the switches then to the accessories, attach negative sides of accessories to frame. You will be much better off with a stator and regulator rectifier.

[Bazuka Joe]

All the accessories I bought were tusk, I just don't have any wiring harnesses. I know I would be better off with a stator but there is simply no reasonable option for the kx250f. I only ride at night if I am coming home from workk and it's a 15 min drive

[717 MOTORSPORTS]

Mount your battery in the air box, and use 14g wire. Solder the connections, and use shrink tubing over the joint.  Have an ohm meter handy. It really helps you sort out wires, and switches. Do not use the frame as a ground. Instead, use a 12g wire, connected to the - on the battery, and run all device grounds to that common wire. That is how the manufactures do it. Once you have your harness all fabbed up, and are sure it all works, then dress the wires to nice, neat lengths,with clean routing. Once that is all done,then, then install the gas tank, and seat to make sure your harness isn't in their ways.After you have moved, and adjusted everything, then wrap it tightly with a few layers of electrical tape, and neatly zip tie it to the frame. I have completely wired a few bikes now, and am very comfortable at doing it, and that is something you will never learn when you buy a complete kit. Wiring the bike yourself, is going to take a few, and maybe more hours to do, but in the end you will have learned something valuable

[Bazuka Joe]

Mount your battery in the air box, and use 14g wire. Solder the connections, and use shrink tubing over the joint.  Have an ohm meter handy. It really helps you sort out wires, and switches. Do not use the frame as a ground. Instead, use a 12g wire, connected to the - on the battery, and run all device grounds to that common wire. That is how the manufactures do it. Once you have your harness all fabbed up, and are sure it all works, then dress the wires to nice, neat lengths,with clean routing. Once that is all done,then, then install the gas tank, and seat to make sure your harness isn't in their ways.After you have moved, and adjusted everything, then wrap it tightly with a few layers of electrical tape, and neatly zip tie it to the frame. I have completely wired a few bikes now, and am very comfortable at doing it, and that is something you will never learn when you buy a complete kit. Wiring the bike yourself, is going to take a few, and maybe more hours to do, but in the end you will have learned something valuable

 

Im going to have to mount the battery behind the headlight, as I wont be able to fit it inside the airbox. the one im looking at is about 6"x5'', or ill have to get in a longer configuration which will be about 12" long. 14g power, 12g ground is definitely a good idea.so it wouldn't be a bad idea to wire every power to one wire to connect to the battery? and do the same with all the negatives, and wire it back to the battery? im going to need the convenience of being able to switch batteries too. the battery's come with a standard male Tamiya connector, so I suppose I could wire them to a female Tamiya connector so I could easily switch out batteries.

 

any advice or a wiring diagram on how the blinker relay fits into al this mess? lol