Squamish (BC) trail riding setup for '05 450R

I've had this bike for about 4 years. I know it is supposedly not the most suitable trail bike, but I will probably stick with it since I occasionally ride in the sand in Oregon and need the power. I live in BC and all the trails around here are technical. Looking to spend under $1000.

 

My biggest frustration is stalling in first... First gear is high and through technical sections I am slipping the clutch continuously to avoid doing so as much as possible. Possible fixes:

-Rekluse

-High ratio transmission

-Sprockets

-Flywheel weights

 

Second frustration is overheating through technical sections, especially if I get stuck and need to take a second try. This is improving as I am getting faster, but still an issue I face.

-Adding a coolant catch tank

-Higher pressure cap?

 

As a former downhill mountain biker, I've never liked the foot brake on off road bikes during technical descents. I don't understand how to get any sort of finesse with it while being jostled around over roots, rocks, and logs.

-Thinking a LHRB would be very advantageous

 

Here is what I am thinking:

Purchasing a used recluse clutch, solving my stalling problem. I think this will also improve my overheating issues: while manually slipping the clutch, I have to use a higher than necessary rpm to allow some margin for error as I get smashed around. The rekluse stall rpm could be set lower since it reacts to any bogging instantly, generating less heat in both engine and clutch.

 

I hope to avoid using the clutch at all, and installing a LHRB. 

 

 

i have a 2006 crf 450r that i ride in bc too (van area)

 

i put in 

rekluse  z start pro

+13oz flywheel

52t rear sprocket

boyesen supercooler

engine ice coolant (they sell at canadian tire)

CV4 rad cap

 

i never use the clutch anymore and i would like a LHRB one day...

 

the bike will still overheat if youre not moving, but its much better 

 

i rarely stall 

I have no experience with an auto clutch.

but i do have experience with a +11oz flywheel.

helped a bunch. its even good on the motocross track so you probably want as heavy as you can find.

with this flywheel my stalling problems went away even with 14-47 gearing (i ride everything dezert, moto, woods, ice and snow)

 

being into dhmtbs and bmx before that it is fustrating when on a bicycle with any half arse decent brakes you have the modulation that you can sit on the seat and brake drag wheelie down a hill beyond the balance point.   but you get on a dirt bike with a awkward clunky rear brake. try to get up on a sit down balance wheelie and the brake is just on or off basically no control compared to a bike.  bugs me too, you'll get better with it but your right foot will never be your index finger on your right hand.....

 

overheating is inevitable unless you put a fan on which can be done youd need a lighting coil and a fan.. theres ktm fans, or even aprilia sxv/rxv stock fans that could work.

but a catch can and high pressure cap will help prevent coolant loss which compounds your overheating problem when you loose coolant.

 

also i would recommend making sure you carb is spot on.

you could buy a rnd flex screw or merge long fuel screw.

and read about how to get the pilot circuit dialed in this will help you select a pilot jet

and every bike older than 2 years i like to replace the vacuum release plate seal

Yamaha is the only brand that sells it separately

Yamaha part number

4FN-14997-00-00

http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004691af8700209bc7964fe/carburetor

its number 11

a merge accelerator pump spring or ap oring mod is a good idea too.

 

also while your at it making sure your suspension is right and you have the right springs will help you big time as well.

things like reduced fork preload, a rate stiffer spring, soft valving and low oil level in the forks are good for woods.

I ride An 04 strictly in the woods. Im in the fraser valley as well. So Mcnutt / Vedder mnt/ Chipmunk and up to the loops and Merritt etc. I use a +13 oz fww and it was the best mod ive done. Make sure the carb is setup right. Turn the idle up a bit. I run 13/51 mostly unless going up country alot. No rekluse- I dont like them just more seat time and practice etc. This will help with stalling and more speed helps with cooling etc.. I have run a small coolant tank behind the plastics on the right front radiator that way I could see how hot its getting and also have more coolant capacity.

 

Also I would make sure you get the forks dialed in . Valving or springs etc..  Just my 2cs

Rekluse z-start. No more stalling period. No more using the clutch lever period, no more finding neutral to start it. Just crank and hit the gas when your ready to haul.. And the cheapo oversized radiators on eBay, 86 bucks I think. I'm not saying it won't still overheat but since I've had mine Atleast eight months my bike hasn't overheated yet.

Rekluse z-start. No more stalling period. No more using the clutch lever period, no more finding neutral to start it. Just crank and hit the gas when your ready to haul.. And the cheapo oversized radiators on eBay, 86 bucks I think. I'm not saying it won't still overheat but since I've had mine Atleast eight months my bike hasn't overheated yet.

Auto clutch is the answer for me on these big 4 strokes. Big radiators are a huge plus, just got a set for $79 shipped, and Evans coolant. Lower gearing if you are riding slow technical stuff. Flywheel weight and steel clutch basket will help it too. I have not overheated my 450 in over 2 years with the larger rads.

I used to ride britannia beach all the time

 


My biggest frustration is stalling in first... First gear is high and through technical sections I am slipping the clutch continuously to avoid doing so as much as possible. Possible fixes:

-Rekluse

-High ratio transmission

-Sprockets

-Flywheel weights

 

rekluse is awesome for what your doing, gearing and fww also a great idea

 

Second frustration is overheating through technical sections, especially if I get stuck and need to take a second try. This is improving as I am getting faster, but still an issue I face.

-Adding a coolant catch tank

-Higher pressure cap?

  • rad cap is a good idea
  • hit ebay get crf450 gpi radiators off ebay, chinese made but great quality and much much bigger rads than stock (bigger than crf450x rads)
  • consider converting to evans waterless collant, it litterally cant boil so there is never any pressure in the system

 

As a former downhill mountain biker, I've never liked the foot brake on off road bikes during technical descents. I don't understand how to get any sort of finesse with it while being jostled around over roots, rocks, and logs.

-Thinking a LHRB would be very advantageous

 

been there its a tough habit to break, i spent every summer for years in whistler ( grew up riding with dan cowan and his whole "flow riders" crew. you should see the stuff we built on bowen island where Dan Mike laudum and myself used to live)

 

Get used to the rear brake, it takes time but you will get it, If every offroad racing PRO cant get used to it you can to, Tip, squeeze the bike with your legs, it keeps your feet steady on the pegs and you can use your ankle to operate the rear brake instead of trying to use your whole leg as it bouces up and down.

 

If you have any friends who know bowen island, there are some gnarly off road trails there. Be ready to break some plastics on your bike lol.

Edited by adam8781

Thanks for the comments.

Purchased a used zstart rekluse off eBay and got that in. Haven't ridden it off road yet but it feels great in the parking lot.

Tightened the rear preload since my sag was an inch too high. This is going to sharpen the handling some.

Have a replacement mylers rad for one side which is going to add some cooling capacity.

May Still Regear, but I'm 2 links short on my new did 520vt2 chain to use the 52t aluminum sprocket I have :(

I just ordered a z-start for my bike lastnight

Edited by Diggla117

Thinking the next go fast mod is Tubliss front and back. Been eyeing them for a while.

 

Use part of a old chain it ya have one.

 

Sort of defeats the purpose of a new, quality chain!

Thinking the next go fast mod is Tubliss front and back. Been eyeing them for a while.

Sort of defeats the purpose of a new, quality chain!

Oh I was just saying something to run while you order the links.

Hmm, I assumed I wouldn't even be able to get a hold of a single inside link. Need to find someone who has cut a chain I think.

Rode the Rekluse yesterday. I will agree with everybody who mentions it is the best mod they've made to their bikes. It is much more tractable now. Clutch engagement is more gradual making technical hill climbs easier, the clutching is less on/off. Also, the only time I overheated was when I was using 2nd gear unbeknownst to me, while doing a technical climb. Of course this results in much more clutch slippage and heat generation. I won't even bother with gearing.

 

Dropped the triple clamp on the forks about 6-8mm. This made a noticeable difference, sharper steering on the trails at the expense of high speed stability.

 

I've jumped an entire difficulty level in trails since the last ride (blue-black).

 

 

also while your at it making sure your suspension is right and you have the right springs will help you big time as well.

things like reduced fork preload, a rate stiffer spring, soft valving and low oil level in the forks are good for woods.

 

Is the fork preload set with spacers? Lowering the oil level reduces the progressive nature of the spring?

Edited by mullenc525

Rode the Rekluse yesterday. I will agree with everybody who mentions it is the best mod they've made to their bikes. It is much more tractable now. Clutch engagement is more gradual making technical hill climbs easier, the clutching is less on/off. Also, the only time I overheated was when I was using 2nd gear unbeknownst to me, while doing a technical climb. Of course this results in much more clutch slippage and heat generation. I won't even bother with gearing.

 

Dropped the triple clamp on the forks about 6-8mm. This made a noticeable difference, sharper steering on the trails at the expense of high speed stability.

 

I've jumped an entire difficulty level in trails since the last ride (blue-black).

 

 

Is the fork preload set with spacers? Lowering the oil level reduces the progressive nature of the spring?

 

well it can be increased with spacers.  on my bike a friend cut a new snap ring groove on the cartridge for me.. most people wont go that far, but i have kyb and i don't really remember the showas been a while since i worked on the older crf.   but you may be able to reduce preload by having the spring seat cut shorter on the lathe, and you can get spacers from race tech for like 3 dollars to put it back to stock preload if you dont like it.

 

146-9510-TECH-4-zoom.jpg?itok=4oaaxmMT

the line starting nearer zero is a stiffer spring with less preload

the upper line is a spring with more preload softer rate.

they could both measure the same sag, with 32kg load.

 

120636d1351750914-reduce-fork-oil-level-

oil level effects, (the volumes listed are NOT applicable to our bikes.

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