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Is this rod shot? 87 xr600r refresh

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I am rebuilding an 87 xr600r and putting the parts together for a rebuild. I have too many bikes so am probably going to put this back together and sell it to finance upgrades my other bikes.

I want to know if this rod is shot or if it's ok to use. It's hard to get a good picture with the cell phone, it looks like grooves but I can't feel then with my finger, it's pretty smooth. The brass color sort of worries me.

I don't want to have to pull this apart if I don't have to. If I do, how hard is it to replace just the rod?

Or do I have to do the entire crank?

Also, what are the copper colored rings in the exhaust ports on the head? Do those get replaced or stay in there?

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Edited by goneballistic

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put the piston pin in and see if it wobbles,if it does it`s worn,,not necessarily unusable though,measuring the small end bore would be the proper way to tell against specs....i`ve seen them with slight wobble not be an issue at all and no noise.

 

Pry the rings out with a pick,,new ones are shaped like an o-ring,,they are fully rounded and when the pipe is installed they smash into what you see before sealing...

 

B

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No discernible wobble at all. Feels very tight and rotates smoothly. Good to go?

Hopefully those exhaust washers are available at the dealer,I have everything else and don't want to wait another week for shipping. The exact same pipes are going on there, of I can't get it at the dealer I'm reassembling anyway and will replace them when new ones get shipped in..

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Brianhare, does the cylinder gasket go on dry or should I spray it with copper gasket sealer?

Edited by goneballistic

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Normally the copper spray stuffs used on the metal gaskets..New or old but mainly if you are trying to get away

with using the old gasket..Base and paper gaskets could take a bit of goo,,not too much though,,Don't want the

stuff spewing everywhere under torquing of bolts etc..We used to have stuff called "Gud" here,,It was black and sticky

and thinner than tar but seemed similar,, It was good for the paper stuff as it was thin and didn't spew out everywhere..

As is usual with anything good it's no longer made,,frik knows why as it was a bit of an old school winner..

Similar to modern "duct tape",,,the one fix for all bikes,,The modern stuff isn't proper duct tape..it's not gluey or

sticky enough anymore.,,won't even stick to oily stuff..Rubbish it is.. :blah:

Edited by Horri

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No discernible wobble at all. Feels very tight and rotates smoothly. Good to go?

Hopefully those exhaust washers are available at the dealer,I have everything else and don't want to wait another week for shipping. The exact same pipes are going on there, of I can't get it at the dealer I'm reassembling anyway and will replace them when new ones get shipped in..

 

That should be good to go.  The max spec for the rod small end to piston pin is rather large. 

 

New exhaust washers are nice, but hardly necessary. 

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Ok I'll go check it now. Is the piston ring gap for wiseco piston based on factory or wiseco specs? I'm not sure what the gap should be

 

Nope,use Wiseco specs on their piston..

 

B

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No discernible wobble at all. Feels very tight and rotates smoothly. Good to go?

Hopefully those exhaust washers are available at the dealer,I have everything else and don't want to wait another week for shipping. The exact same pipes are going on there, of I can't get it at the dealer I'm reassembling anyway and will replace them when new ones get shipped in..

 

If you have no wobble i`d reuse it........the exhaust rings fit about a billion Hondas and are easy to get..

 

B

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Brianhare, does the cylinder gasket go on dry or should I spray it with copper gasket sealer?

 

The lower cylinder gasket needs a dot of silicone where the case splits,,you can lightly skim the gasket if you like though...the head and valve cover are silicone coated already and go on dry..

 

B

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Normally the copper spray stuffs used on the metal gaskets..New or old but mainly if you are trying to get away

with using the old gasket..Base and paper gaskets could take a bit of goo,,not too much though,,Don't want the

stuff spewing everywhere under torquing of bolts etc..We used to have stuff called "Gud" here,,It was black and sticky

and thinner than tar but seemed similar,, It was good for the paper stuff as it was thin and didn't spew out everywhere..

As is usual with anything good it's no longer made,,frik knows why as it was a bit of an old school winner..

Similar to modern "duct tape",,,the one fix for all bikes,,The modern stuff isn't proper duct tape..it's not gluey or

sticky enough anymore.,,won't even stick to oily stuff..Rubbish it is.. :blah:

 

This silicone is the only stuff i like except on exhaust,this is unbelieveable,,it`s sticky,takes heat well and can be used to replace gaskets where in my business you cannot have a come back..

 

If you are pulling an oil pan on a job with a 8 hour flat rate R&R you cannot have that vehicle come back leaking,,and alot of vehicles now only use silicone as a gasket......this stuff will flat out work where others fail ..if the gap is a little too much this will fill it,seal it,and laugh about it......it`s the best silicone i`ve used in 25+ years hands down..

 

http://www.permatex.com/products/our-brands/the-right-stuff

 

B

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This silicone is the only stuff i like except on exhaust,this is unbelieveable,,it`s sticky,takes heat well and can be used to replace gaskets where in my business you cannot have a come back..

 

If you are pulling an oil pan on a job with a 8 hour flat rate R&R you cannot have that vehicle come back leaking,,and alot of vehicles now only use silicone as a gasket......this stuff will flat out work where others fail ..if the gap is a little too much this will fill it,seal it,and laugh about it......it`s the best silicone i`ve used in 25+ years hands down..

 

http://www.permatex.com/products/our-brands/the-right-stuff

 

B

Totally in agreement. I recently used this stuff putting the thermostat housing and water pump back in my Jeep, no gaskets, just the Permatex and it made life a bit easier.

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I need a double check on how these rings go in and what the gap should be.

They go in in the order in the picture correct? Top to bottom? Shiny thin ring on top, heavy gray ring second, thin ring, oil control ring then thin ring?

My top ring gap at an inch is about .015, is that ok? I have read .004 is minimum but I'm not sure what max is. That gap is what the instructions say it should be based on the bore size I'm guessing ok....

Thanks for the help you guys, this I'd freaking me out...

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Edited by goneballistic

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My bore at top measure 3.83 inches, according to the chart I need to multiply that by .004 which gives me .015, does that sound right?

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The info I have on rings is from my files ,,It reads as below..

 

(Q) Which of the 2 compression rings goes in the topmost piston slot?

-One has a bronzey/coppery plated look.
-The other has a plain dull metallic look.
They both appear same size/profile.

FYI anyone, the topmost ring is the funny coloured one..

 

All your rings look funny coloured to me..Leave you to ascertain the correct  "funny colour"..

Guess it means the bronze/copper looker is the top ring..
 

Edited by Horri

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I need a double check on how these rings go in and what the gap should be.

They go in in the order in the picture correct? Top to bottom? Shiny thin ring on top, heavy gray ring second, thin ring, oil control ring then thin ring?

My top ring gap at an inch is about .015, is that ok? I have read .004 is minimum but I'm not sure what max is. That gap is what the instructions say it should be based on the bore size I'm guessing ok....

Thanks for the help you guys, this I'd freaking me out...

 

 

.004 on the top ring gap,,on a JE or Wiseco piston is too tight,,at operating temp the ends will but together and cause the rings to buckle and be damaged and possible cylinder damage..

 

What size is the piston......did it come with ring gap tolerances????????? there must be a sheet to tell you..

 

The ring order you have is correct.....the top ring usually has a moly coating ..the second is plain..there are usually marks on the rings telling which side is up,,all this should be on your instruction sheet..

 

B

Edited by brianhare

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My bore at top measure 3.83 inches, according to the chart I need to multiply that by .004 which gives me .015, does that sound right?

 

Yup..arround 15 thou on the top ring is about right..

 

B

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The info I have on rings is from my files ,,It reads as below..

 

(Q) Which of the 2 compression rings goes in the topmost piston slot?

-One has a bronzey/coppery plated look.

-The other has a plain dull metallic look.

They both appear same size/profile.

FYI anyone, the topmost ring is the funny coloured one..

 

All your rings look funny coloured to me..Leave you to ascertain the correct  "funny colour"..

Guess it means the bronze/copper looker is the top ring..

 

 

Top ring has a silver color to the edge against the cylinder,,it`s the moly coating.

 

B

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Crap. Engine came back missing a head bolt washer. I also got some oil on the base gasket. I wiped it off with denatured alcohol but I'm scared it's gonna leak. Should I stop and get another one?

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Crap. Engine came back missing a head bolt washer. I also got some oil on the base gasket. I wiped it off with denatured alcohol but I'm scared it's gonna leak. Should I stop and get another one?

 

Just clean it off and assemble.

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