HELP! DDS Clutch problems?

Got a new bike with that DDS clutch. You have to pull the lever almost all the way to the bars to get the clutch to disengage. Anybody have this problems or quick remedies? Just broke the bike in today and have a national tomorrow.

Thanks!!

Got a new bike with that DDS clutch. You have to pull the lever almost all the way to the bars to get the clutch to disengage. Anybody have this problems or quick remedies? Just broke the bike in today and have a national tomorrow.

Thanks!!

Sounds like there's some air in the system. There's no reason the DDS assembly itself should cause this unless it's defective. You checked and made sure the adjustment screw on the lever isn't backed off didn't you?

Yes, played with the lever adjustment. You literally have to pull the lever to the bars to get it to disengage. I'll bleed it and see how it does. Thanks!

Yes, played with the lever adjustment. You literally have to pull the lever to the bars to get it to disengage. I'll bleed it and see how it does. Thanks!

I fought with the DDS on my 13 for a couple months when I first brought it home. You'd figure a new bike wouldn't need all this fuss since day 1. Anyhow to make a long story short (search my posts on the subject) the remedy was removing a particle inside the master cylinder reservoir that restricted hydraulic pressure. Bleeding didn't fix it was only partially blocked. I had to remove the brake line, drain, and blow compressed air/use a finishing nail to open the passage. It could have been a casting flaw rather than debris.

Andrew started this thread for me on my 14 husky te300, that sounds like a great possibility I'll have to check that out

I fought with the DDS on my 13 for a couple months when I first brought it home. You'd figure a new bike wouldn't need all this fuss since day 1. Anyhow to make a long story short (search my posts on the subject) the remedy was removing a particle inside the master cylinder reservoir that restricted hydraulic pressure. Bleeding didn't fix it was only partially blocked. I had to remove the brake line, drain, and blow compressed air/use a finishing nail to open the passage. It could have been a casting flaw rather than debris.

so, ive bleed it again and its the same.. i ride with my middle finger only on the clutch, pulled to my knuckles the clutch is still engaged, the bike stalls.. pull the lever to the bars its ok.. its a firm pull from start to finish. the bike has 5 hours on it.

 

so is the hole on the right not drilled all the way?? is that the problem?

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Edited by UberJelly_moto1_race450

Kyle, post that picture on KTM talk.  Someone is bound to know the answer there

Longer adjuster screw and adjustable reach lever is the fix

So back bleeding it worked?

no

its still jacked up?

Coming off of a 2011, I've been hating the vague engagement of my 14 clutch.  I rode two different 13's and they feel the same.  

 

I've tried the heavy duty spring.  It only makes the pull harder with the same vague engagement.  I tried the "Z" setting and that feels the same as the heavy duty spring.  

 

Has anyone tried this?  

 

Hi

 

I have exactly the same problem with Husqvarna TE300. It has done 6 hours. Been that way since first day. If someone finds the solution please share :)

 

Peeter

I ordered the thicker plate.  For $7, I'll try it and report back.  It seems like the dds is a very friendly, light pull and gradual engagement. I'm hoping for a quick crisp engagement.  

I ordered the thicker plate.  For $7, I'll try it and report back.  It seems like the dds is a very friendly, light pull and gradual engagement. I'm hoping for a quick crisp engagement.  

 

Didn't work.  I just did a test ride with the thicker plate.  Still very gradual engagement.  However, it seemed to drag less.  I'll put it back apart to make sure nothing looks odd in there.    

so, ive bleed it again and its the same.. i ride with my middle finger only on the clutch, pulled to my knuckles the clutch is still engaged, the bike stalls.. pull the lever to the bars its ok.. its a firm pull from start to finish. the bike has 5 hours on it.

so is the hole on the right not drilled all the way?? is that the problem?

03D0E534-74BE-443D-A3E5-E3A0646AC4D2_zps

No I didn't need to drill anything. However, it was through reverse bleeding with a syringe that I discovered the clog within the master cylinder as it was impossible to force fluid up through.

Some compressed air and a finishing nail was all that was required for me...

Did you find a solution to this? I just bought a brand new Husqvarna 250 and it has the same issue straight from the first ride. Bleeding didn't seem to help any. I did notice that the pressure plate only lifts on one side until right before the lever touches the handle bar. Maybe have a look at how your clutch is actuating as it sounds like we have identical issues.

I have 2014 husky te 250. Same problem as you guys. Very annoying to spend this much money on a new bike and gave to deal with this. I got fed up trying to resolve it myself so its in the shop now. Hopefully they figure it out. Anyone else come up with a solution yet??

Did this issue get sorted out 

what was the fix

No I didn't need to drill anything. However, it was through reverse bleeding with a syringe that I discovered the clog within the master cylinder as it was impossible to force fluid up through.

Some compressed air and a finishing nail was all that was required for me...

Did you hold the lever out, it makes BBing easier.

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