DRZ 400S - Died While Riding - Stator Readings

2005 DRZ 400S 2000 miles.  Got about one mile into the woods and it cut off.  Started right back up but will not keep running.  Checked stator according to the Suzuki DRZ 400S repair manual:


Disconnected 4 wire harness from CDI.


Hooked up multimeter as follows:


Pickup Coil Tests: Blue (+) to Green (-)

Signal Coil Tests: Black (+) to White (-)


Pickup Coil Resistance:  500 ohms (OK)  Should be 390-600 ohms

Signal Coil Resistance:  10 ohms (Bad)   Should be 0.05-0.20 ohms


Pickup Coil Voltage: Zero  Should be more than 5.0V

Signal Coill Voltage: Zero  Should be more than 1.4V


Other tests: Black to engine ground = open

White to engine ground = open

White to Black = closed


Bike has the 3x3 mod and has always run great.  All else is stock.


Any ideas are appreciated.  My buddy stopped riding so I'd like to fix this and sell the bike.

You have only done partial tests and the tests you did, returned bad values. So either those parts you tested are bad or the meter you used is bad. If the part you tested were bad, the engine would not run. Period. Those were the parts that tell the ignition when to spark.


The stator that generates power is the Yellow leads.


There is an excellent write up in the faqs about stator testing.



I be you have a carb/fuel issue as you made no mention of a weak battery.

Thanks William. A carb issue would be a cheaper fix so I'm definitely willing to look at that.  Is there a way to clear it out without taking the carb off?  When I did the 3x3, it was a pia to get the carb off (tight).

Indeed you could have problems with the stator and the coils that feed info to the CDI but the tests are not that easy to get accurate results.


Pickup Coil Resistance:  500 ohms (OK)  Should be 390-600 ohms

Signal Coil Resistance:  10 ohms (Bad)   Should be 0.05-0.20 ohms-------Most home meters will not read accurate at less than 1 ohm.  However if you really do have 10 ohm that is quite a ways out of specification.


Pickup Coil Voltage: Zero  Should be more than 5.0V--------Both of these tests require a peak hold meter.

Signal Coill Voltage: Zero  Should be more than 1.4V--------Both of these tests require a peak hold meter.


Other tests: Black to engine ground = open--------OK

White to engine ground = open--------OK

White to Black = closed---------OK


Any ideas are appreciated.  ---------Have you verified no spark at the spark plug?  Could you be having a problem with the side-stand interlock system that kills sparks.  Kill switch on the handlebar?

Thanks Noble.  Actually, I thought I might take a timing light that senses the spark in the ignition lead and hook it up while the bike is running.  When the engine cuts off, watch the timing light to see if it stops flashing when the engine cuts off.  Good idea?  It wouldn't be a plug, would it?

I think if it were a stator problem, your battery would be discharged too much to turn the engine over after it quit. Starting the bike takes much more energy from the battery than running the engine. Do you still have the kickstand cutout switch? Since yours is an S model, id also check the vacuum to the automatic petcock. My bike likes to cut out when I stay off the throttle while bucking over rocky terrain.... i suspect the movement of the petcock ball cutting off fuel flow. Just a few more ideas to consider.

Thanks Dirtsketcher!  OK here goes ... I put a timing light on it and it does not appear that ignition is the issue.  The timing light is flashing even when the engine cuts off.  It seems likely that this is a carb/fuel issue.


I'll check the fuel petcock.


Is there a way to clear out the carb without removing it?

Hopefully this helps someone - it was the spark plug causing this!  Replaced plug and WALA back to rip snortin.'

Back in the "old" days the spark plug was always the first thing to suspect.  Now we hardley even consider it.  Yes, good to check out the simple things first. Glad you got it resolved.

Sapwacker , for future reference , you can check the standard mikuni while it is still in situ . You can loosen the clamps , take off the cables and rotate it to get to the top or fuel bowl . But if you have the FCR , it has to come out , greg

Hopefully this helps someone - it was the spark plug causing this! Replaced plug and WALA back to rip snortin.'

Wow .. That's rare , nice cheap fix :thumbsup:


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