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banging head trying to get rear tire on


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Take that thing and pay to have somebody put it on for you. The Yamaha dealer by my work charges $20 for dirt bike tires and $25 for street bike tires. Sorry that you had such a hard time. I am in the minority here when I say the money is well spent when getting new tires to just fork over the cash and let somebody else do it.

No... No you're not. I hate tires with a passion. It's money well spent to

Let someone who does it 20 times a day bust his knuckles.

Save the two stroke.

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I usually farm this job out, but have decided that I'm gunna get good at it after an argument on here months ago with "Flagstaff" who impressed on me that I should do my own tires (I'm pretty decent with push bike tires, just hate the stiff sidewalls of the moto tires, push bikes I can do without tools)

 

Glad to hear its not just me that despises changing tires. Just took off a set of 606's the other day. The front in particular was a PITA. The MX51s that went on were so much more pleasant.

 

Basically, before you do anything, make sure the bead on BOTH sides is broken, and stays broken. Lots of soap and baby steps when it comes to using the levers.

 

I knock the last bit in with a hammer.

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Just want to make sure I am using all of the correct terminology.  The bead is the 1/4" you can see that runs all around the tire.  In my case there is a small section where you cannot see that band because it is tucked in the rim. 

 

So your saying I can fix this by overinflating...correct?

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Just want to make sure I am using all of the correct terminology.  The bead is the 1/4" you can see that runs all around the tire.  In my case there is a small section where you cannot see that band because it is tucked in the rim. 

 

So your saying I can fix this by overinflating...correct?

Yes.  Spray the edge of the tire with WD-40 some of it will seep into the rim, then over inflate the tire, 60-70 psi should do the trick.  Once it's popped into place drop down to your operating pressure 6-8 psi if you are running UHD tubes or 12 psi with regular tubes or 3 psi if you are running tubliss.

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Just want to make sure I am using all of the correct terminology.  The bead is the 1/4" you can see that runs all around the tire.  In my case there is a small section where you cannot see that band because it is tucked in the rim. 

 

So your saying I can fix this by overinflating...correct?

 

Yes - see my post (last post on page 2)

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I had a crappy Atrax tire once that absolutely failed to seat. A few quality tires have been tough but what I'll do is pull the stem, push the bead back in the well all the way around, lube it well and reinflate, making sure that it seats where it wouldn't before. Always goes easier the next time. 60+ psi and slime always does the job, no hammers or bouncing required.

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Whew , you guys have me wore plum the hell out.....after you change a few tires you eventually learn to outsmart them. 2 irons is ok , 3 is optimal. I would never put any oil based lube on a tire bead ! I guess its a matter of personal preference , but when im done , i dont want to be covered with tire soap , dawn , or wd40. try this , ok , window cleaner will lube the bead nicely,evaporate quickly,and leave NO oily residue that can cause you to shear off a valve stem in a bad situation,and , your rim will be much easier to clean between changes. You can put more than 60# to seat the bead . It aint just artrax tires that are hard to seat . Desert it's can be just a bad .

Kudos to the op for gettin his hands dirty and changing his own tire,,it only gets easier. More and more riders choose to let someone do their wrench work for them.....lol

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Whew , you guys have me wore plum the hell out.....after you change a few tires you eventually learn to outsmart them. 2 irons is ok , 3 is optimal. I would never put any oil based lube on a tire bead ! I guess its a matter of personal preference , but when im done , i dont want to be covered with tire soap , dawn , or wd40. try this , ok , window cleaner will lube the bead nicely,evaporate quickly,and leave NO oily residue that can cause you to shear off a valve stem in a bad situation,and , your rim will be much easier to clean between changes. You can put more than 60# to seat the bead . It aint just artrax tires that are hard to seat . Desert it's can be just a bad .

Kudos to the op for gettin his hands dirty and changing his own tire,,it only gets easier. More and more riders choose to let someone do their wrench work for them.....lol

thanks for the advice and the last words of encouragement.  I bought this RM125 in bad condition as a project back so I could learn everything on the bike and be able to fix any problem I ever have.  I did my first top end on the bike and it turned out perfectly.  Also rebuilt the carb (but I had some prior carb experience).  So once again appreciate what you said.  Next project tis servicing the front forks.

Edited by DirtSmoker250
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I learned how to do it even Though my local shop only charges 10 bucks a tire. It's faster for me to do it and it prepares me for the trail.

 

I took my first set of Tu-Bliss kits to the shop. They couldn't fit them and then destroyed both when trying to get them off. I turn up at the shop to collect my wheels and find I have HD tubes and two totally rooted Tu-Bliss kits :rant: .

 

After replacing them. I ended up just watching the Installation video and doing them myself. Easier than tubes IMO. Haven't had an Issue since ? .

 

Here's the best bit. when I took them to the shop I also took my lap top with the Installation video ready to play :banghead: .

Edited by AddictedToBling
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