Looking for some Wiring Harness, Connections and Installation assistance for installing a Tusk Universal Under the Fender LED Taillight with Brake Light on a Husqvarna 2017 TX300
The UTFLight comes with a plastic connector that would work with the tusk enduro lighting kit which i'll be removing so that I can plug into the stock harness.
I've been told the stock harness is the same as what would be included on the TE Model, minus the actual headlight/taillight being present; which is the case for the headlight wiring . it's all there ready to go. For the taillight/brakelight however there is a bit more to be done. There are NO wires running to the rear of the bike or within the SubFrame as some have noted
I'll need to run to existing wires, and could use some guidance for which connectors are needed, if a supplementary harness is required(if so which one) and which wires to connect to on the existing harness. There is very limited info in the manual (for either bike: TE/TX) or complete color harness diagram with info and connector information anywhere that I could find.
I also picked up the Tusk Brake Switch Banjo bolt for the Brembo brakes (two wire, bullet connectors) - https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/docs/Brake switch instructions.pdf
On the Brake side under the front/bottom of gas tank near radiator there is an existing connector (I think for radiator fan) and from it, two unused wires, I would say for tapping into the existing harness. 1 Solid Brown, 1 Yellow/Red -
Shifter side, near the bottom rear of tank I found taped up cylinder style connector (Someone can enlighten me) i think switch wires ? maybe some terminator, each with the same color wire in as out. One is Gray/Black and the other White/Black
Under the cdi box is a three plug connector with two wires, 1 Brown and 1 White, third unused- i was hopeful this could be the tail light connector but am unsure
Help on harness, connector names /types and setup is very much appreciated
I bought a non-running 2015 Crf450r from a guy who said that the local honda shop said it needed a new ECU. The bike has maybe 20 hours on it tops it is spotless. I changed the ECU and got nothing. Started to dig deeper and found out it had no compression. The nikasil (however it is spelled) had completely flaked off the upper third of the cylinder. Replaced the cylinder and put in a new piston still nothing. Swapped out the fuel tank in case the pump was bad, nothing. Checked all electrical connections and everything looks good. After a bunch of headache, finally got the bike to start by spraying starting fluid in the cylinder AND applying an external power source to the fuel pump. Once the bike starts up, it idles fine, revs fine, etc. However, it WILL NOT start without the external power source. Since finding this out, we have replaced the stator and tested all of the connections going to the ECU for a break or bad connection. Still nothing without the power source and starting fluid at the beginning. I am lost at this point as far as where to look next. Any suggestions or tips would be very much appreciated.
read up on past posts and got busy testing my buddy's '00 drzS which runs it's battery dead when ridden.new rectifier and all connections checked over(so he says) so i unplugged the three yellow wires from the stator that go to the rectifier and probed them with the multimeter (red) and grounded out on the motor(black) and got plenty of resistance.what do we need to do next? what does the parts man need to charge us for this time?
hi there, I recently bought the ricky stator ltz400 stator after having seen a post confirming that after soldering the old harness on the new stator worked.
unfortunately, after I completed my work, the bike no longer starts. im really not sure where to start. I unplugged the connector with the blue/green/white/grey wires from the box under the seat, and managed to test the blue/green resistance at 0.52 on whatever resistance scale my meter was on. I did not test the black/white wires.
the battery is fully charged, the main fuse is intact, the starter runs strongly, the bike just doesnt fire.. it ran fine before taking it apart, so im sure i've messed up the job somewhere along the line. Im going to recheck to make sure I didnt reverse some wires along the way. That cloth insulation is annoying, I finally ended up using an exacto knife to carefully trim it off.
Anyone having or had problems with the starter not turning over easily on the 450X???
I have read about this problem on CRF's ONLY and not seen anyone come up with a fix.
Problem being is that you think there is a problem with the battery, when infact the battery is OK. When you have a good fully charged battery in the bike and press the e-start, it turns over very slowly.
I have checked the electrical circuit and it seems OK. I am wondering if it might be the starter itself - any suggestions?????