The TPS adjustment thread

My suggestion, get it remapped and set the TPS back to stock ~.60. Worked on both my '14 350EXC and '16 501FEs.

Thanks for your inputs - I want to do what I need to to confirm no leaks where there should not be.

 

So if air is entering the Grunt to exhaust pipe connection, that could cause popping - correct?  Open this up and seal this with sealant?

 

What is the best way to find air leak?  You recommend trying to find it OR just remove and replace things and try to seal any connections (with High Temp RTV sealant?)?

 

 

Thanks

Open up a new thread with your symptoms so folks can weigh in and not hijack this thread as I suspect you have more than just a tps issue. Cheers.

OK - Thanks for your help

OK - Thanks for your help

No problem. There's plenty of folks here that can help. Haven't seen a new thread from you yet so until you post that up I'd offer here for giggles to put the complete stock exhaust back on and adjust tps to 64/.65 and see how it goes. If it's doing the same exact thing. Leave it as is and look over the desmog stuff real good.

That's a good idea Oldfuddy & I'll do that -

All I'll have to do is-

Remove FMF 4.1 and put stock silencer back on

Remove Grunt and put stock exhaust fitting back on

Set TPS to .63 and then Evaluate - see if the popping on deceleration is better.

Why would air leaking into EXHAUST side make any difference? And why would this cause popping? I could see an air leak on the FUEL SIDE affecting things.

How to open a new thread?

That's a good idea Oldfuddy & I'll do that -

All I'll have to do is-

Remove FMF 4.1 and put stock silencer back on

Remove Grunt and put stock exhaust fitting back on

Set TPS to .63 and then Evaluate - see if the popping on deceleration is better.

Why would air leaking into EXHAUST side make any difference? And why would this cause popping? I could see an air leak on the FUEL SIDE affecting things.

yes absolutely it will cause popping (on deceleration)

its from a very lean condition when the throttle is closed and decelerating above idle speed...

open pipes make it worse as well...

 

from the web:

1) When the throttle valve is in the idle position, fuel does not flow out of the main system (needle, needle jet, main jet). Fuel is only delivered to the engine by the pilot (idle) system.

2) The combined effect of the closed throttle and elevated engine rpm is to create a fairly strong vacuum in the intake manifold. This vacuum, in turn, causes a high air flow rate through the small gap formed by the throttle valve and carburetor throat.

3) Under these conditions the pilot (idle) system cannot deliver enough fuel to create a normal, combustible air/fuel ratio. The mixture becomes too lean to burn reliably in the combustion chamber. It gets sent into the exhaust system unburned and collects there.

4) When the odd firing of the lean mixture does occur, it is sent, still burning, into the exhaust system where it sometimes ignites the raw mixture that has collected ---- the exhaust then pops or backfires.

 

my thoughts are the TPS is intended to minimize this condition...

Edited by THUMPERRRR

Why would air leaking into EXHAUST side make any difference? And why would this cause popping? I could see an air leak on the FUEL SIDE affecting things.

If you are running in the .83 area and still popping you have more than just a tps issue IMO. I'd go backwards to go forward... See if the exhaust and grunt is causing the issue from the extra flow or just compounding another issue (most likely). I suspect the exhaust is not the issue, but a 30 minute check with the wrenches would eliminate it or highlight it. Edited by oldfuddy

How to open a new thread?

On the top of a threads page, look on the top right corner of your screen , u will see what i think looks like a DICE, with 4 dots inside, click on that. Then click on the FORUMS box, and then click a topic u want, then click whatever sub topics you think your topic best fits into, and at some point a "START NEW TOPIC" bar will come up, click on it and enter your topics info , and click START NEW TOPIC bar again, to post it. Easy Pesy

Edited by Orange Crush 500

Hi i've been having a problem with my bike (Ktm 250sxf 2011), its been bogging hard lately and it doesn't have enough power to pop the front end of the ground without bogging. Im just wondering if this would help my problem. Thanks 

Hey guys.... Anybody know if the Model 3 tool is compatible with 2017 Husqvarna FC350/350 SX-F? Just got the Husky and was gonna order one just to have....but only list through 16. Prob the same but honestly not sure!

Hi i've been having a problem with my bike (Ktm 250sxf 2011), its been bogging hard lately and it doesn't have enough power to pop the front end of the ground without bogging. Im just wondering if this would help my problem. Thanks

Is that a carbureted bike? If yes, check the accelerator pump. If it's not squirting when you twist the grip then that will definitely bog. Also check your valves.

Hey guys.... Anybody know if the Model 3 tool is compatible with 2017 Husqvarna FC350/350 SX-F? Just got the Husky and was gonna order one just to have....but only list through 16. Prob the same but honestly not sure!

Yes it should be the same, i just haven't updated the listings yet. Thanks for the reminder. ;)

Thank you and your welcome!

Just a bump... Many folks here have thumpers and are using the tps tool with success. Recently an inmate found it can be used on his V-Twin carb'd 950 and it's catching on for twins now. Just wanted folks to know if you have a carb'd KTM twin in the stable next to your thumper your twin can be tweaked too with one of these tools.

I know several guys here also ride the adventure bikes, here's an excellent HowTo by Frank on adjusting your TPS on the carbed adventure bikes, in this case the 950:

 

I gots a 2015 xcfw350, gonna put the STE 2 end cap on there.  Anyone have a voltage number I should start with?

.64 

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