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The TPS adjustment thread

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26 minutes ago, Earthmover said:

Im a new owner a of 2012 500 EXC and since i got it its starts roughly (needs 5-8 turns to start).

I figures i should start with the TPS adjustment and see what happens. 

Checked TPS position today and it was at 0.56 wich is way off after reading this thread. Tried 0.61 0.62 0.63 0.635 0.64, and seems like the throttle is happiest at 0.635 wich is what i set it up initially. 

The throttle is better, and seems like the backfires sattled down to a point they allmost gone as far as i can tell. Problem is its still starts roughly.

Any suggestions how to proceed?

I thought about taking the injector out and clean it (looks like a pain to get to it), anything else to check?

Thanks.

With the screen out of the end of the muffler, .635 to .640, pull the little filter out of the fuel line and replace with the NAPA inline, clean the injector which is quite easy, there's multiple videos on Youtube.

If it hasn't been done ask your dealer to install the Euro 701 map. You may have to set your TPS closer to .620 with the 701 map.

A number of the hard starting bikes I've looked at actually have the idle set a bit low. Once it's set up right the bike will immediately start whether it's 20 degrees or 100 degrees without the choke. I have a '12 and a '14 and both do now.

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4 hours ago, Ud_Luz said:

With the screen out of the end of the muffler, .635 to .640, pull the little filter out of the fuel line and replace with the NAPA inline, clean the injector which is quite easy, there's multiple videos on Youtube.

If it hasn't been done ask your dealer to install the Euro 701 map. You may have to set your TPS closer to .620 with the 701 map.

A number of the hard starting bikes I've looked at actually have the idle set a bit low. Once it's set up right the bike will immediately start whether it's 20 degrees or 100 degrees without the choke. I have a '12 and a '14 and both do now.

Thanks for the answer.

What is NAPA inline? did you meant just to replace the inline filter with new filter OEM or is NAPA is a different fuel filter that is preffered?
As for the map i actually have no clue what map is on the bike but i guess its the standart map. I doubdt the dealers over here will know what 701 map im talking about but ill check next week, hopefully they wont want an arm and a leg for it as they always do.

Forgot to mention - previous owners took off the smog kit and the exahust seemes like its been dealed with - i can see at the end of the tube threads but i allso can see screen so i dont know if it counts as my muffler have screen in it or not. Ill add a picture tomorrow.


 

Edited by Earthmover

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39 minutes ago, Earthmover said:

Thanks for the answer.

What is NAPA inline? did you meant just to replace the inline filter with new filter OEM or is NAPA is a different fuel filter that is preffered?
As for the map i actually have no clue what map is on the bike but i guess its the standart map. I doubdt the dealers over here will know what 701 map im talking about but ill check next week, hopefully they wont want an arm and a leg for it as they always do.

Forgot to mention - previous owners took off the smog kit and the exahust seemes like its been dealed with - i can see at the end of the tube threads but i allso can see screen so i dont know if it counts as my muffler have screen in it or not. Ill add a picture tomorrow.


 

I didn't see Israel. You likely already have the Euro spec map. The filter is a NAPA 3095. NAPA is an autoparts chain in the US. Look it up and cross it over to something you can find locally. If you have WIX filters than it's a 33095. You cut the fuel line and install it inline using a couple of fuel injection clamps.

If you can see inside the muffler the screen was removed.

The OEM inline filter is a little tiny thing. The NAPA filter is large and will never have to be replaced. I usually wrap 5 or 6 turns of electrical tape around the seam so it doesn't rub through anything. 

33095.jpg

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Ok so if im understand correctly the euro map is fine and i should keep going thrue the fuel system for the starting issues. Ill look for this NAPA filter on the webs and order one, and in the meen time ill replace the oem one with a new one and clean the injector, hopefully itll make a change.

Edited by Earthmover

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4 minutes ago, Earthmover said:

Ok so if im understand correctly the euro map is fine and i should keep going thrue the fuel system for the starting issues. Ill look for this NAPA filter on the webs and order one, and in the meen time ill replace the oem one with a new one and clean the injector, hopefully itll make a change.

Hopefully this is the issue. Idle speed is around 2,000 also, a bit higher than the old RFS or RC4.

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Ok, dumb question ( kicking myself actually)
Is the EFI light always on, it's not flashing at all. Only talks about it flashing in the manual.
I've been adjusting the TPS and currently at .62 from .52
Still stalls as I jump my training logs.
Hard to tell if I feel any difference yet as it's not constantly doing it and I feel it's my riding ability.
Bike is a 17, 500 excf with AU map and a Ackro exhaust.
Thanks in advance
Hopey

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10 minutes ago, Hopey said:

Ok, dumb question ( kicking myself actually)
Is the EFI light always on, it's not flashing at all. Only talks about it flashing in the manual.
I've been adjusting the TPS and currently at .62 from .52
Still stalls as I jump my training logs.
Hard to tell if I feel any difference yet as it's not constantly doing it and I feel it's my riding ability.
Bike is a 17, 500 excf with AU map and a Ackro exhaust.
Thanks in advance
Hopey

efi light should turn off after motor starts, so you have an issue. If began after tps adjustment, that may be a clue.

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All good reconnected everything and light went out.
Currently at .66 and still getting flame out on real slow balancing work ( again could be my bad clutch control - Rekluse time maybe)
Has anyone gone above .66 for a MY17, 500 with au(eu) map and a Ackro.
What have others found once they start getting too high a reading.
Everything else still feels fine, starts easy, pulls like a train.
Thank you.
Hopey

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I wouldn't expect the AU map to tolerate that high of tps setting, usually its like .02v max range outside of stock spec, try .60v max

 

also the idle will change the tps setting, so if you changed the tps and later changed the idle, there's no way to accurately go back to where you were.

The base set up should be in the service manual, and probably has to do with throttle valve completely closed, with idle turned all the way down.

 

 

Edited by Spud786

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Hey all!

I just read through all 44 pages to ensure Im not beating a dead horse or wasting anyones time. So im curious if anyone may be within the same boat as me and have a possible answer to my question. I just bought a brand new 17' 500excf, and immediately dumped $1,000 into the thing to make it pretty and also make it run great.  Performance mods goes as far as Pro Moto Billet end cap with spark arrestor installed, and not an install but the bike is desmogged. Due to lack of free time, I havent be able to take it out on a ride other then a few hundred feet through my development so I dont have a lot of time on the bike to know for sure, but after desmogging and installing the block off kit, and installing the end cap, The bike will start and almost sounds like a weak cough every 30 seconds or so until it finally cuts out. Now without turning my idol ridiculously high, it keeps doing this. I am going to install BDS FUEL RAIL tomorrow because I believe the stock plastic fuel rail that has a 90 degree bend in it makes it just a little harder and slower for fuel to pass through which MAY be the reason the bike coughs like its not getting the fuel it needs.  But im not sure. Im also aware that the bike may need to be tuned by the tps tool #3 (which i do have). But reading about using this tool sounds like I literally have to pull the bike in half in order to do it. Ill do it if I have to, BUT!

 

A: Did anyone ever find an easier way than pulling the subframe back on these year bikes? I tried to rotate the Fuel body by loosing the boots but the fuel injector hoses are just hitting the large wiring system connected to the frame.

 

B: After I install my fuel rail, that alone is going to feed the fuel DIRECTLY into my fuel injector without any curves or angles which should stop the sputtering.  So, should I waste my time and tune the bike? Or as long as im not causing neighborhood fires with flameouts (which hasnt occured in the short time ive ridden it), should I be fine to leave as is? ANY advice is much appreciated.  Sorry for the Essay! Just want to be clear in my situation. Thanks guys! 

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35 minutes ago, Stemmemx15 said:

Hey all!

I just read through all 44 pages to ensure Im not beating a dead horse or wasting anyones time. So im curious if anyone may be within the same boat as me and have a possible answer to my question. I just bought a brand new 17' 500excf, and immediately dumped $1,000 into the thing to make it pretty and also make it run great.  Performance mods goes as far as Pro Moto Billet end cap with spark arrestor installed, and not an install but the bike is desmogged. Due to lack of free time, I havent be able to take it out on a ride other then a few hundred feet through my development so I dont have a lot of time on the bike to know for sure, but after desmogging and installing the block off kit, and installing the end cap, The bike will start and almost sounds like a weak cough every 30 seconds or so until it finally cuts out. Now without turning my idol ridiculously high, it keeps doing this. I am going to install BDS FUEL RAIL tomorrow because I believe the stock plastic fuel rail that has a 90 degree bend in it makes it just a little harder and slower for fuel to pass through which MAY be the reason the bike coughs like its not getting the fuel it needs.  But im not sure. Im also aware that the bike may need to be tuned by the tps tool #3 (which i do have). But reading about using this tool sounds like I literally have to pull the bike in half in order to do it. Ill do it if I have to, BUT!

 

A: Did anyone ever find an easier way than pulling the subframe back on these year bikes? I tried to rotate the Fuel body by loosing the boots but the fuel injector hoses are just hitting the large wiring system connected to the frame.

 

B: After I install my fuel rail, that alone is going to feed the fuel DIRECTLY into my fuel injector without any curves or angles which should stop the sputtering.  So, should I waste my time and tune the bike? Or as long as im not causing neighborhood fires with flameouts (which hasnt occured in the short time ive ridden it), should I be fine to leave as is? ANY advice is much appreciated.  Sorry for the Essay! Just want to be clear in my situation. Thanks guys! 

This will do absolutely nothing. The bike flows more fuel than the injector could possibly use, snake oil. There's enough fuel supply to run probably 3 or 4 injectors at the same time or a 1800cc Harley. 

The TPS tool is very easy to use. Set the TPS and get 4 or 5 hours on the bike before you do anything else. If for some reason it's starving for fuel on a new bike there's only a few possibilities. Somehow the injector is contaminated, a blocked fuel line (very unlikely), faulty fuel pump or the fuel pressure is too low (I've seen an internal leak from the fuel pump inside the tank) or something is whacked with the ECU. 

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4 minutes ago, Ud_Luz said:

This will do absolutely nothing. The bike flows more fuel than the injector could possibly use, snake oil. There's enough fuel supply to run probably 3 or 4 injectors at the same time or a 1800cc Harley. 

The TPS tool is very easy to use. Set the TPS and get 4 or 5 hours on the bike before you do anything else. If for some reason it's starving for fuel on a new bike there's only a few possibilities. Somehow the injector is contaminated, a blocked fuel line (very unlikely), faulty fuel pump or the fuel pressure is too low (I've seen an internal leak from the fuel pump inside the tank) or something is whacked with the ECU. 

Okay, im planning on tuning the bike tomorrow. I appreciate the input! Just not looking forward to having to take the bike apart just to tune it, unlike my fathers 2013 500exc, which was a walk in the park to tune lol. Thanks again!

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10 minutes ago, Stemmemx15 said:

Okay, im planning on tuning the bike tomorrow. I appreciate the input! Just not looking forward to having to take the bike apart just to tune it, unlike my fathers 2013 500exc, which was a walk in the park to tune lol. Thanks again!

I haven't looked at the '17 setup yet. That much of a pain to get to the injector harness?

It is a bit difficult to tune until you have a few hours on it. I'd probably set the idle a bit high and ride for a bit. It isn't uncommon for the engine to pick up 500+ rpm breaking in, a significant difference. Don't hammer it the first hour or so. Take careful note if it's running too hot, a sign you're lean. If the fan is running way too much that's a good indication.

Also, did you put gas in it? The factory gas is very stable with a very long shelf life but I've seen a few bikes that don't run as well as they should with whatever it is the factory put in. Might be because it's sit for a while.

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4 minutes ago, Ud_Luz said:

I haven't looked at the '17 setup yet. That much of a pain to get to the injector harness?

It is a bit difficult to tune until you have a few hours on it. I'd probably set the idle a bit high and ride for a bit. It isn't uncommon for the engine to pick up 500+ rpm breaking in, a significant difference. Don't hammer it the first hour or so. Take careful note if it's running too hot, a sign you're lean. If the fan is running way too much that's a good indication.

Also, did you put gas in it? The factory gas is very stable with a very long shelf life but I've seen a few bikes that don't run as well as they should with whatever it is the factory put in. Might be because it's sit for a while.

Yeah ive seen multiple videos and seen a few posts on here all say the same thing for the 17' models, subframe has to be pulled away along with the airbox boot removed from the fuel body, which just like old Honda 250x's, in order to get to one thing, you have to take something else off until the bikes in pieces lol. And okay, i wasnt sure if breaking it in while not tuned would hurt it at all. The dealership put gas in it and assured me they ran premium through it, as I did the same with my 450SXF last year. My 450 ran strong, maybe its just the break ins for these new bikes. Its been 4 years since ive even had a new bike to break in so it seems like a foggy concept now. 

Edited by Stemmemx15

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4 minutes ago, Stemmemx15 said:

Yeah ive seen multiple videos and seen a few posts on here all say the same thing for the 17' models, subframe has to be pulled away along with the airbox boot removed from the fuel body, which just like old Honda 250x's, in order to get to one thing, you have to take something else off until the bikes in pieces lol. And okay, i wasnt sure if breaking it in while not tuned would hurt it at all. The dealership put gas in it and assured me they ran premium through it, as I did the same with my 450SXF last year. My 450 ran strong, maybe its just the break ins for these new bikes. Its been 4 years since ive even had a new bike to break in so it seems like a foggy concept now. 

Hmm.... :thinking: Maybe KTM was getting annoyed at all of us circumventing their emissions. :smirk: 

Let us know how it turns out, not too many posts on this yet.

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2 minutes ago, Ud_Luz said:

Hmm.... :thinking: Maybe KTM was getting annoyed at all of us circumventing their emissions. :smirk: 

Let us know how it turns out, not too many posts on this yet.

Lol Im sure they were getting annoyed seeing this design. Ill see if I can make an easier way, if not, ill post a link to a video to show how I did it. Might have some cursing to censor if its as big of a pain as it sounds. Thanks again for the advice! 

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No it's quite easy to do the TPS on a 17 model did it about 5 times over the weekend.

I have a IMS 17ltr tank as well.

In Short.

Take seat off

Tank tank off

Loosen front hose clamp on throttle body

Loosen rear hose clamp on throttle body

Loosen the bottom bolt on the frame to the engine mount

You can now twist the throttle body a little so the top TPS cover screw can be seen through the bolt hole you just removed

Remove TPS cover

Connect TPS tool

Adjust to desired setting - tighten check setting again as it moves

Straighten throttle body

Tighten clamps

Replace engine/frame bolt you might have to loosen the other two first

Leave TPS cover off until your find a happy setting

Replace tank and seat

Test

Now to adjust

I just remove seat, tank, twist throttle body after loosening clamps

Tighten clamps after straightening tank seat on

Test again

Once happy go back and put the TPS cover on

Had it down to 15-20 minutes to adjust.

By the way can't notice any difference between .60 & .66 so is it better to set at .60 ?

What's likely if I leave it at .66?

Thanks Team

Hopey

Sorry I meant remove the bottom bolt so you can put the screw driver through.

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20 minutes ago, Hopey said:

No it's quite easy to do the TPS on a 17 model did it about 5 times over the weekend.

I have a IMS 17ltr tank as well.

In Short.

Take seat off

Tank tank off

Loosen front hose clamp on throttle body

Loosen rear hose clamp on throttle body

Loosen the bottom bolt on the frame to the engine mount

You can now twist the throttle body a little so the top TPS cover screw can be seen through the bolt hole you just removed

Remove TPS cover

Connect TPS tool

Adjust to desired setting - tighten check setting again as it moves

Straighten throttle body

Tighten clamps

Replace engine/frame bolt you might have to loosen the other two first

Leave TPS cover off until your find a happy setting

Replace tank and seat

Test

Now to adjust

I just remove seat, tank, twist throttle body after loosening clamps

Tighten clamps after straightening tank seat on

Test again

Once happy go back and put the TPS cover on

Had it down to 15-20 minutes to adjust.

By the way can't notice any difference between .60 & .66 so is it better to set at .60 ?

What's likely if I leave it at .66?

Thanks Team

Hopey

Sorry I meant remove the bottom bolt so you can put the screw driver through.

My friend you probably just saved me hundreds of dollars to the swear jar over one project! That makes complete sense, thank you very much! As for the numbers, I personally can't help yet but I think you know that lol, I will however update you guys on my bikes sweet spot number so we can compare. Thanks again!! 

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