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The TPS adjustment thread

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@Hopey - In regards to your flame outs; being a bit rich (TPS too high) can contribute to flame outs.  Double check that your idle is high enough, then try going down a bit on your TPS and see if that helps.  Read this:

Also in regards to the Rekluse; I just got a Rekluse myself, only have 1 ride on it.  But ironically it's the super slow almost-stopped riding where I'm missing the manual clutch.  It's odd to have to rev the bike to get enough RPM for the clutch to start biting, when previously I kept the bike more or less at idle.  It's going to take some practice to get that right while doing stop & go figure 8's for example, and other super slow riding.  But once the bike is rolling, the Rekluse is a lot of fun!  You can just forget about the clutch and ride it like a giant pit bike.  From a dead stop in 2nd gear if you twist it open you get an instant wheelie.  3rd gear starts the launch is a little soft but it will pull right into a wheelie as the clutch locks up, so I'm thinking of trying a 3rd gear start for my next race (15/52 gearing). ;)    

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only if installing a new fuel rail, would you have to lift subframe.  The only reason you have to twist the throttle body, is because it has a tps cover plate, and you cant get to the top screw.  As the tps is behind that plate. Since you are going in there a few times, twisting the throttle body every time is going to be a pain. may just want to put bottom screw back in, or leave the top one loose if you can get to it without twisting the throttle body.

If you have the U.S. map, you have a little more leeway to use a higher tps number. Since you've modded the exhaust .66 is worth a try.

 

However, you need to have some kind of base, like know how many turns you idle is, cause the idle screw changes the tps setting, so mark your idle screw, so you know where it is right now, and then note the tps setting right now. that way you have some sort of base to work off off.

lets say where you idle is right now, tps is .55 ,   you move it to .66, and later turn up the idle. then you check tps later and now its at .70  , that because the idle change moved the tps setting.

point is, important to have a base, cause things can really get out of wack.

 

Edited by Spud786

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30 minutes ago, sirthumpalot said:


@Hopey - In regards to your flame outs; being a bit rich (TPS too high) can contribute to flame outs.  Double check that your idle is high enough, then try going down a bit on your TPS and see if that helps.  Read this:

Also in regards to the Rekluse ; I just got a Rekluse myself, only have 1 ride on it.  But ironically it's the super slow almost-stopped riding where I'm missing the manual clutch.  It's odd to have to rev the bike to get enough RPM for the clutch to start biting, when previously I kept the bike more or less at idle.  It's going to take some practice to get that right while doing stop & go figure 8's for example, and other super slow riding.  But once the bike is rolling, the Rekluse is a lot of fun!  You can just forget about the clutch and ride it like a giant pit bike.  From a dead stop in 2nd gear if you twist it open you get an instant wheelie.  3rd gear starts the launch is a little soft but it will pull right into a wheelie as the clutch locks up, so I'm thinking of trying a 3rd gear start for my next race (15/52 gearing). ;)    

If you haven't already, install the heavy wedges instead of stock. Also replace the Belleville spring with the one from Slavens (SX spring).

Your clutch engagement will be faster with MUCH less slippage. ALL 500's should be set up this way. :prof: 

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9 minutes ago, Spud786 said:

only if installing a new fuel rail, would you have to lift subframe.  The only reason you have to twist the throttle body, is because it has a tps cover plate, and you cant get to the top screw.  As the tps is behind that plate. Since you are going in there a few times, twisting the throttle body every time is going to be a pain. may just want to put bottom screw back in, or leave the top one loose if you can get to it without twisting the throttle body.

If you have the U.S. map, you have a little more leeway to use a higher tps number. Since you've modded the exhaust .66 is worth a try.

 

However, you need to have some kind of base, like know how many turns you idle is, cause the idle screw changes the tps setting, so mark your idle screw, so you know where it is right now, and then note the tps setting right now. that way you have some sort of base to work off off.

lets say where you idle is right now, tps is .55 ,   you move it to .66, and later turn up the idle. then you check tps later and now its at .70  , that because the idle change moved the tps setting.

point is, important to have a base, cause things can really get out of wack.

 

Awesome information!  I am going to use this when working on it tomorrow. And thank you for going in depth for why you should mark the idle screw because my next question would have been why and how? Lol Thank you again for the help! Ill keep you posted on the progress and final results. 

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Thanks I will have to give that a try.  I've got it adjusted now where it has a little drag at idle and starts to lock up at a pretty low RPM, and in the trails it's fantastic.  I don't notice any slipping at all if I'm hard on the gas.  I did discover that if you're cruising at slow speed (30-40mph) and you're in too high a gear, you might not notice that you're in too high of a gear because it will slip when the RPM's are pretty low and it just feels like you're in the right gear, until you get on the gas hard and realize you're in a high gear!  

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9 minutes ago, Stemmemx15 said:

Awesome information!  I am going to use this when working on it tomorrow. And thank you for going in depth for why you should mark the idle screw because my next question would have been why and how? Lol Thank you again for the help! Ill keep you posted on the progress and final results. 

Even better, set your idle at ~1900 for the baseline reference.

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1 minute ago, Ud_Luz said:

Even better, set your idle at ~1900 for the baseline reference.

I have no idea how to measure the idle. I need a tool for that dont I? Another $100 perhaps?? Lol

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1 hour ago, Hopey said:

No it's quite easy to do the TPS on a 17 model did it about 5 times over the weekend.

I have a IMS 17ltr tank as well.

In Short.

Take seat off

Tank tank off

Loosen front hose clamp on throttle body

Loosen rear hose clamp on throttle body

Loosen the bottom bolt on the frame to the engine mount

You can now twist the throttle body a little so the top TPS cover screw can be seen through the bolt hole you just removed

Remove TPS cover

Connect TPS tool

Adjust to desired setting - tighten check setting again as it moves

Straighten throttle body

Tighten clamps

Replace engine/frame bolt you might have to loosen the other two first

Leave TPS cover off until your find a happy setting

Replace tank and seat

Test

Now to adjust

I just remove seat, tank, twist throttle body after loosening clamps

Tighten clamps after straightening tank seat on

Test again

Once happy go back and put the TPS cover on

Had it down to 15-20 minutes to adjust.

By the way can't notice any difference between .60 & .66 so is it better to set at .60 ?

What's likely if I leave it at .66?

Thanks Team

Hopey

Sorry I meant remove the bottom bolt so you can put the screw driver through.

Ditto.....did the same thing. The engineering on this bike is awesome.

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I've received the tps tool this morning and checked the value on my 250 exc-f 2017 (european model with screen on the exhaust end cap removed, the rest is stock).

It was set to 0.499 / the bike starts normally but this could be better, no backfire issues or anything else.

Now it's set to 0.611 / the bike seems to start better (placebo effect??) just waiting for nice weather to try it out.

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@pierr0 Thank  you for the info! Please post back after your test ride, I would love to hear if the 250's get the same benefit as the bigger bikes! 
 

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Checking with the rpm tool and i read 0,61 at 1400 rpm.

Idle at 2000 rpm seems way too high for me but that's what i read in the owner manual...

Am i right or should i get 0,61 at 2000 rpm?

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1 hour ago, pierr0 said:

Checking with the rpm tool and i read 0,61 at 1400 rpm.

Idle at 2000 rpm seems way too high for me but that's what i read in the owner manual...

Am i right or should i get 0,61 at 2000 rpm?

The idle setting moves the throttle plate on the 17's, you can have 2 different 17's with different throttle plate settings and have the same rpm. and down the road, one bike that idles at 2000 rpm today, next week may only idle at 1850rpm. IMO setting tps by idle can be flakey.  Better to set up the tps by the throttle plate, and then adjust idle to where ever afterwards. 

 

 

Edited by Spud786

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On 21/03/2017 at 3:20 PM, sirthumpalot said:

@pierr0 Thank  you for the info! Please post back after your test ride, I would love to hear if the 250's get the same benefit as the bigger bikes! 
 

I try it yesterday, the bike was running normally.
IMO no big change or improvement, maybe because:
- i'm too close from the TPS factory setting
- EU map (allready good setting of the TPS)

I've notice that when you give some gaz and then release to idle, it takes time to get back to idle, like if you release slowly the throttle.
Is that a sign for too lean or too rich?

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On 21/03/2017 at 10:43 PM, Spud786 said:

The idle setting moves the throttle plate on the 17's, you can have 2 different 17's with different throttle plate settings and have the same rpm. and down the road, one bike that idles at 2000 rpm today, next week may only idle at 1850rpm. IMO setting tps by idle can be flakey.  Better to set up the tps by the throttle plate, and then adjust idle to where ever afterwards. 

 

 

How do you adjust the TPS by the throttle plate?

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On 3/21/2017 at 3:49 PM, pierr0 said:

Checking with the rpm tool and i read 0,61 at 1400 rpm.

Idle at 2000 rpm seems way too high for me but that's what i read in the owner manual...

Am i right or should i get 0,61 at 2000 rpm?

 

To add a little to what @Spud786 was saying;  different bikes will require slightly different throttle openings to idle at the same exact RPM.  They'll all be close, but not identical.  So don't try to correlate RPM to TPS readings, it won't be helpful in this case.  

What you want to do is first set the idle to a good speed just so you don't have to fiddle with the idle at the same time that you're fiddling with the TPS.  You can technically adjust both at the same time, but if you're not understanding the changes then it's real easy to get out of whack and make more work for yourself.  So it's best to set your favorite idle setting first, then leave the idle alone while you're fiddling with the TPS.  

In this case the TPS is already in an OK position, meaning the bike starts and runs OK with the current setting, and your goal is to fine tune it to a better or best setting.  So all you're going to do is move the TPS up a little, down a little until you find the best setting.  The volt meter simply tells you how much you've moved it up or down.  Start by moving it up 0.02v and give it a test.  If you like the change, then repeat and test again.  If you didn't like the change, then go down by 0.02v and test.  You should narrow in on your favorite setting quickly.  

Now in the case that your TPS setting is just really out of whack; say you removed the TPS from the bike for some reason, and the bike just won't run at all or runs horribly.  In this case you will need to start from a known setting.  You would close the throttle all the way (idle all the way down) and set the TPS to the value specified in the shop manual.  Then set the idle, and THEN you can start fine tuning the TPS as described above.  

Does this help? :) 

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2 hours ago, pierr0 said:

I try it yesterday, the bike was running normally.
IMO no big change or improvement, maybe because:
- i'm too close from the TPS factory setting
- EU map (allready good setting of the TPS)

I've notice that when you give some gaz and then release to idle, it takes time to get back to idle, like if you release slowly the throttle.
Is that a sign for too lean or too rich?

 

Thanks for giving it a shot!  A hanging idle, where you blip the throttle and it takes a while for the idle to settle down, usually means it's a bit lean.  Try turning the TPS voltage up a bit to resolve that.  

If you already have the Euro map then you're most likely not lean overall, and your best TPS setting will probably be very close to the factory setting.  You'll notice the biggest difference down low, the first 1/3 throttle or so.  On the larger bikes I think you spend more time down around 1/3 throttle than you do on a 250, so I was curious to know if you would notice the change as much on a 250. :) 

Edit --> I just realized you're in France; does your bike have an O2 sensor in the exhaust? 

Edited by sirthumpalot

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5 minutes ago, sirthumpalot said:

Edit --> I just realized you're in France; does your bike have an O2 sensor in the exhaust?  

Thanks for the advice.

No sensor in the exhaust.

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Just a shout out of thanks to Sirthumpalot.... coming up in a few days a 3 year thread going strong with over 100K views and no sign of slowing down... Great job!

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