Tokyo Mods complete carb worth the $$ ?

[Stu2]

Is the complete carb worth the $850 ? I have searched and found no reviews or anyone thats bought and tried one, it comes with a host of goodies which on thier own add up to just about $400, so I am considering buying the complete modified carb,

 

I will be keeping my 2010 yz 250f for at least another season and getting this carb would be as close to FI as possible,

 

Anyone used one before ?

[FORMA MOTO]

You can take a stock Keihin FCR carb and for about $100.00 make it work amazing.

 

- 2008 CRF450R accelerator pump upgrade kit

- Tokyo mods apump linkage spring

- jetting

- new slide plate seal

- R&D remote fuel screw

- do a full carb service on the choke, hot start, float needle

 

http://www.dirtrider.com/features/protips/141_0707_keihin_fcr_carb_rebuild/

 

You don't need the wings in the intake unless you ride really, really slow trails with obstacles.

The wings will reduce top end hp.

 

You don't need the anodized 'bling' either.

 

If you want more/better power than than stock, get a head porting. It has no adverse effects, and never wears out.

Edited April 18, 2014 by TheKoolAidMadeMeSick

[Stu2]

Thanks koolaid, I have ordered a jd jetting kit and I have the athena 290bb kit and the head has been flowed,

The jetting is good and bike is strong, I just have an annoying hesitation(bog) when I get on the throttle and I have tried everything - oring mod, set accel pump as per the manual, set fuel screw and jetted about 7 times now,

Where do I get the honda diaphram kit from ? Honda ? And I will order the ap spring from tokyo mods and it should be better

[FORMA MOTO]

http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/138_147/products_id/3932

 

 

Once the carb work is all done, lift up the subframe and WATCH the squirt: often the nozzle is corroded/clogged, or the squirt is too early and hits the slide.

[FORMA MOTO]

Thanks koolaid, I have ordered a jd jetting kit and I have the athena 290bb kit and the head has been flowed,

The jetting is good and bike is strong, I just have an annoying hesitation(bog) when I get on the throttle and I have tried everything - oring mod, set accel pump as per the manual, set fuel screw and jetted about 7 times now,

Where do I get the honda diaphram kit from ? Honda ? And I will order the ap spring from tokyo mods and it should be better

 

I just sold a 2005 CRF250X with 5 hours on it.....bone stock but with the SS valve upgrade!  Probably should have kept it and put the 290 kit on it.....my 450X is  handful (read anchor) in the foot-down type stuff, and the 450R has no e-start so it's a no-way option for the really slow going terrain...

[Stu2]

Ok will order one up thanks,

I almost bought the 250x before the yammie but price wasn't right, I have heard they are very underated with a few mods

I bought a 2007 Wr 250f so I can use the bottom end and make my yz e start which will be great to have for enduro

I have watched the ap squirt and set it as per the manual, it just misses the slide but there is a bit of fuel on the slide, is this normal

As for the strength and duration I have nothing to compare it to so for all I know it could be normal or crap

Can the squirt nozzle be replaced ?

[FORMA MOTO]

No, but you can ream the nozzle with very fine  wire.

 

With a hard throttle 'whack', held open, it should shoot all the way into the head, and run out of gas in approx 1 second.

[Stu2]

Ya then the squirt seems fine, it goes into the head easily and lasts about 1 sec, I am going to look for other causes of the hesitation,

I went leaner on the needle and it helped but I am 2 from the top so ill try the leaner jd needle when it arrives and test

[noslo33]

the correct needle will fix your hesitation,i ended up using the suzuki needle that pro circuit recomends.also put the adjustable leak jet on it.the red jd needle worked well on our 269 motor,and im assuming on a 290 that it should work equaly good.its not uncommon to have that slight hesitation on a ported head,you just have to spend a bit of time with your needle setting.the slide mod also helps out,especially with the ported head.I set the acc pump just a tad retarded from stock.and we always use vp 4.4 fuel,and if i remember correctly,the main was a 165 and the pilot was a 42,or a 45 for ax in the winter(think cold)I think the suzuki needle worked better on the stock bore,and the jd needle worked best on the 269 bike.Hope this helps you out.

[Stu2]

Thanks noslo, I had a suspicion the ported head may have something to do with it,

You mention a slide mod, what exactly is it ?

When I went leaner on the needle it was better but its still there, hopefully the tokyo mods AC pump spring and jd jetting kit will solve it

[noslo33]

the slide mod that procircuit did to our carb was done to the back of the vacum control valve(aka-slide).they removed material to make the cutaway larger,i would draw you a pic if i knew how to,but i don"t.the reason that you have that annoying little off idle hiccup is def related to the ported head and the root diameter of the needle.the red JDneedle with the clip on 4th pos,and a 45pilot with a 165 main should get you in the ballpark.i highly recomend using vp 4.4 fuel,as this is the fuel that we used to obtain our best results.renegade mx4 is also acceptable,and i think sunoco makes an oxygenated  race fuel to.i now do our own slides since the 60 bucks seemed a bit high for the type of work that was done.and if you get your carb dialed in,the slide mod is just a nice little bit of trickness that seems to help a bit,but will not solve your off idle problem.both of my sons are on new 14 yammies so i guess its time to start reveiling some of our carb tricks.lol.i do have a new modded slide that i would part with,let me know if your interested.

[Diggla117]

http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/138_147/products_id/3932

Once the carb work is all done, lift up the subframe and WATCH the squirt: often the nozzle is corroded/clogged, or the squirt is too early and hits the slide.

Not trying to call you out here Krannie. I know your good on these carbs BUT I called r&d earlier trying to figure my issue out since I have the powerbowl 2 n all and it was after five so I didn't expect anybody to answer but low and behold someone did. I asked if he was a tech and he said "yeah you could say that, I'm also the owner" super nice dude! Anyways he said it shouldn't matter if it hits the slide as long as it shoots about six feet.. What's your thought on this. Also I really appreciate you giving me and everybody else the 411 on the ncvs needle and the slide seal. I replaced the seal and plate earlier(50 bucks at partzilla and when some company's suggest it be done every 25 hours I figured I'd replace it Atleast once while I have the bike) along with installing that needle and am stoked how much better she's sounding and running! alottttt better

[FORMA MOTO]

You probably talked to Dean.

He IS the D in R&D Racing.

 

Well he's right: it will hit the slide if your turn the throttle just the right speed and just the right amount.

 

The point I am making is that if you 'whack' the throttle it should never hit the slide.

If you keep slowing down your 'whack' speed, eventually it will hit the slide, but it will also reduce the stream strength.

I found that if the timing of the squirt was early enough to hit the slide every time, it could cause flame out on multiple throttle turns, as in modulating the throttle.