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1998 rm125 project

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So I took apart my rm125 because the P.O welded my shift lever on. I'm gonna be replacing the seal and lever as well as shaft. I'm also trying to dial in my rear shock which I think needs a rebuild. I'll just buy a new one if it's necessary. Here are my questions.

1. How do I take apart the shock? Should I just buy one off eBay?

2. What else would you recommend i do while I'm this far into it?

3. Any other suggestions or things I should do on instal?

Thank You

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I know the shock can be rebuilt but I dont know what kind of special tools they require. I have done forks before (non-usd) and they are very straight forward to rebuild. Unless the shock is weeping fluid I would just dial it in for my weight and riding style. 

 

While the bike is in pieces I would tackle the following items

 

-check ring-gap replace rings as necessary

-clean power valve

-clean out carb/rejet if necessary

-regrease or replace replace swing arm, linkage, and wheel bearings. 

-clean air filter

-new plug

-lube/adjust brakes & cables

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Ok. Good suggestions. I did just to a top end and valve rebuild so that should be good. I'm not sure on the rear shock though. How much would it be to send it somewhere? The reason the engine is out is cause my drain bolt is stripped and my shifter is welded on. Anyone have ideas about getting the drain bolt out? If I still it will I need to split the cases to get the stuff out or will it come out with oil?

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Ok. Good suggestions. I did just to a top end and valve rebuild so that should be good. I'm not sure on the rear shock though. How much would it be to send it somewhere? The reason the engine is out is cause my drain bolt is stripped and my shifter is welded on. Anyone have ideas about getting the drain bolt out? If I still it will I need to split the cases to get the stuff out or will it come out with oil?

You may want to find someplace closer to you but these guys are in my backyard. http://www.moto-pro.com/Services.asp?strMPSID=SHOCKREBUILD

 

Does the drain bolt just spin in place? or has it siezed? Either way I would split cases to clean out the debris, and depending on damage you may need to replace the case half. If the bung threads arent damaged too bad you might be able to get away with a heli-coil. 

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The drain bolt just spins in place. I was hoping I wouldn't have to split the cases but if it comes to it i will. I'll have to order the tools to. I imagine it's not that hard considering how much I've already done. I just have to remove the flywheel,stator, primary drive gear,and kickstart idler gear, and exhaust valve actuator.And obviously with the top end off. How hard is it to do with the proper tools.

I know my bike has a gasket on the bottom end not some liquid gasket stuff. I know my rod and bearings are good so I would just replace the bearings and seals just cause I'm in there. I would also want to rebuild the internal waterpump as well. Anything else I missed? What tools will be required for this?

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The drain bolt just spins in place. I was hoping I wouldn't have to split the cases but if it comes to it i will. I'll have to order the tools to. I imagine it's not that hard considering how much I've already done. I just have to remove the flywheel,stator, primary drive gear,and kickstart idler gear, and exhaust valve actuator.And obviously with the top end off. How hard is it to do with the proper tools.

I know my bike has a gasket on the bottom end not some liquid gasket stuff. I know my rod and bearings are good so I would just replace the bearings and seals just cause I'm in there. I would also want to rebuild the internal waterpump as well. Anything else I missed? What tools will be required for this?

 

Off the top of my head you will need

-Complete set of sockets (+ 32 or so MM large socket for clutch basket, you will want to double check that size in the service manual)

-Torque wrench(up to 55 ft-lbs)

-Flywheel puller

-Case seperator

-crank puller

-top end lock up tool

-clutch basket holder

-Rubber mallet

-Extended torque wrench adapter for cylinder base bolts

-Shake n Break is neccesarry if you are going to replace the main bearings.

-Loc-tite as necessary

-6 Pack of beers

.

Make sure you follow the service manual for this, dont remove the top end until you have too, locking up the engine makes removing the primary gear and flywheel a breeze Once you get inside you can inspect the damage of those threads, but if I remember correctly the bolt is steel, so it probably won and stripped out the bung threads.

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Yeah. Idk if the bike is worth all that money. Maby just drill it out and then take a magnet to get the shards out and helicoil it. You make splitting the cases seem way harder then I thought

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At very least pull the right side cover off, then you can replace the shift lever possibly witness the oil drain. most of those tools are for splitting cases and pressing the crank out. 

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Yeah. I have the clutch basket already pulled. I have ordered my seal for the shift shaft. Once that comes in I can change that. Idk what I'm gonna do about the drain bolt though.

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