Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Issue with brakes after new rotor and pads installed?

Recommended Posts

I bought a Tusk oversized rotor and new pads for my 06 RMZ450. I put on the new rotor and pads and the pads are not fully releasing the rotor. Any ideas what may be wrong? When I test rode, braking power was extraordinary, and while riding, the release of the brake was smooth and showed no signs of worry. But once I get my bike back on the stand the front pads are rubbing significantly. If I spin the tire as hard as I can it will make about 1 rotation and stop.

 

Rotor replacement went as follows. Remove 4 screws, replace old rotor with new, blue locktite and torque to manufacturer setting. I also took the old hardware off of the caliper bracket and put it onto the new caliper bracket made specifically for the oversized brake rotor.

 

With the brake pads I removed the pin locking them in. Put the new ones in and put the pin back in. I pushed in the piston so it would fit onto the new rotor. Brakes have been bled properly since installation, no change. What could affect the retraction this much? Is it that the combination of the new pads and rotor don’t leave room for the brakes to retract, until I wear down the pads?

Edited by j.swins82

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds to me like there is still air in the system. Try turning your bars to the left and zip tying the front brake lever on. Leave it overnight and it will bleed itself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I put a moose solid rear rotor and new pads on last year. It was so tight I could barely turn it. I went out and rode for a half hour, boiled my rear brakes and the rotor was a dark reddish brown. After that it was all good. Pads work good and the rotor is back to it's normal color.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds to me like there is still air in the system. Try turning your bars to the left and zip tying the front brake lever on. Leave it overnight and it will bleed itself.

 

Thanks, I will try this. I've heard about it before but never gave it a try. I used the brake bleeder and sacrificed a ton of brake fluid to guarantee myself that this wasn't the issue. But I am desperate and will try anything.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I put a moose solid rear rotor and new pads on last year. It was so tight I could barely turn it. I went out and rode for a half hour, boiled my rear brakes and the rotor was a dark reddish brown. After that it was all good. Pads work good and the rotor is back to it's normal color.

 

I'm hoping that wearing them down a little will fix it. I am just worried because I hear that I can possiblly warp the rotor if it gets too hot. Hopefully it doesn't! I have a ride tomorrow and I think I am just going to go for it. And if it doesn't fix itself then I'll take it to the local shop and see if they can figure it out :banghead:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For bleeding. Get an ink syringe for a printer. Use one of your carb vent hoses. Suck some fluid up and sqirt it into the bleeder screw on the caliper. With the master cylinder cap off, watch the bubbles pop out...

Secondly. Are your caliper pistons retracting fully? When's the last time this 06 got new caliper piston seals? As cheap as they are, id replace em with your upgraded set up. And when you have the pistons out, clean em up with some fine sandpaper.

In my opinion,.no good for you to "rub through" especially if your rotor isnt floating. Tusk should know how thick to make their pads, i doubt theyre too thick...

Good luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×