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Boyesen Quickshot 3

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Has anyone tryed one of these on their FCR 39? Here is why I ask. My bike has always had a hesitation right at the crack of the throttle, warm or cold, however it is way more noticeable when cold and I'm talking Ca. cold (40 to 50 degree mornings) I know not very cold. In order to get my bike to idle consistant and run good I have my pilot screw 3 and 1/2 turns out and it will still stall and bog when cold but after about 125 degrees water temp it runs much better but with a slight bog at the the crack of the throttle. And I'm not talking grabbing a handful of throttle no complaints there. So I'm thinking main jet is good. Do I need a pilot jet change, and a accelerator pump change? And if I make a pilot jet change do I jump 2 sizes? That pretty much what we always did with Holley 4 barrels on V8s. This is my set up:

 

2012 S model

3"X3" mod (of course)

434 big bore

Hot Cams both intake and exhaust

FCR 39 from Eddie Sisneros with acc pump mod (unknown jet sizes never had it apart)

MRD SSW exhaust. However curently I stole my sons FMF Q4 with power bomb header and still runs the same I just lost a little pull on the top end.

 

Craigo would like to here your input on this.

Edited by DJBSR

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CRAIGO is not Here ATM .

I am His 1st Officer on the USS Starship Thumpertalk :smirk:

So ... it seems you have not made any jetting changes ?

We need to experiment with the accelerator pump , taking note where it is now and using small increments to find a suitable setting .

Next , we need to fine tune the fuel screw setting to get you to around 2 turns out .

EDIT , He is IN THE HOUSE

Edited by ITS CHOOKEN
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So I'm thinking the next step is pilot jet change, my research tells me stock FCR MX39 is 160 main and 45 pilot or "slow jet" as they call it. I see no adjustment on the acc pump other than leak jet but not sure about that. I know Eddie wired the pump solid at the linkage.

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Backed out the AP timing screw 3/4 CCW (1/2 didn't seem enough) and it helped the warm bog but I know enough about carbs that it's not going to hepl my cold idle problem and even right now it dies at a warm idle at  2 1/2 turns out. ??? Do appreciate the help dont get me wrong just tired of that part throttle surge trying to get through town. The bike runs great at WOT.

Edited by DJBSR

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CRAIGO is not Here ATM .

I am His 1st Officer on the USS Starship Thumpertalk :smirk:

So ... it seems you have not made any jetting changes ?

We need to experiment with the accelerator pump , taking note where it is now and using small increments to find a suitable setting .

Next , we need to fine tune the fuel screw setting to get you to around 2 turns out .

EDIT , He is IN THE HOUSE

Yep craigo has good advice, CHOOKEN will +1 it...I'd say he is like quality assurance

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So I'm thinking the next step is pilot jet change, my research tells me stock FCR MX39 is 160 main and 45 pilot or "slow jet" as they call it. I see no adjustment on the acc pump other than leak jet but not sure about that. I know Eddie wired the pump solid at the linkage.

 

Mate...... If Eddie set up the carb for you why did you mess with it..? 

Eddie would have turned the AP timing screw in 1/2 a turn to delay the squirt and wired the arms to get squirt duration correct...(less than 1.5 seconds)...

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CRAIGO is not Here ATM .

I am His 1st Officer on the USS Starship Thumpertalk :smirk:

So ... it seems you have not made any jetting changes ?

We need to experiment with the accelerator pump , taking note where it is now and using small increments to find a suitable setting .

Next , we need to fine tune the fuel screw setting to get you to around 2 turns out .

EDIT , He is IN THE HOUSE

 

Yep craigo has good advice, CHOOKEN will +1 it...I'd say he is like quality assurance

 

You guys crack me up...x 2....... :lol:  :lol:

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Mate...... If Eddie set up the carb for you why did you mess with it..? 

Eddie would have turned the AP timing screw in 1/2 a turn to delay the squirt and wired the arms to get squirt duration correct...(less than 1.5 seconds)...

Having your bike stall and restarting it at several intersections and stop lights on the way to work in the morning is embarrassing. Not picking on Eddie but it’s not right. SSW is in Colorado at nearly 5000 ft. and I’m in California at 300 ft so I’m sure it’s a little tough to set up. But again I’m tired of having to restart my bike at stop lights and constantly revving it, or riding half way to work with the choke on and idling a 3000 is getting old.

Edited by DJBSR

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It is possible to set up a carb  with correct needle and main jet , AP adjustment ...as long as Eddie knew your riding conditions

Jetting should be 

155 main jet

OCEMN needle , clip 3 with SSW/MRD, (open pipe)

or OCEMP needle, clip 3 with FMF Q4

45 pilot jet

approx. 2 turns fuel screw..Fine tune via this procedure.http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=327405

 

I am thinking the jetting would have been set up correctly by Eddie and more likely have some blockage in the pilot circuit....

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Ok finally got a chance to get my carb. off and apart. Here is what I found:

 

160 main

45 pilot or low speed

OCWER needle.

 

I still want to go bigger on the pilot due to the fact it wouldn’t idle below 3+ turns out on the pilot screw but not sure how much bigger. Also struggling on finding float level info. Everything I find shows a round float and a 9mm spec. but my float is not round. This looks a little high to me. Really appreciate your help.

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Ok finally got a chance to get my carb. off and apart. Here is what I found:

 

160 main

45 pilot or low speed

OCWER needle.

 

I still want to go bigger on the pilot due to the fact it wouldn’t idle below 3+ turns out on the pilot screw but not sure how much bigger. Also struggling on finding float level info. Everything I find shows a round float and a 9mm spec. but my float is not round. This looks a little high to me. Really appreciate your help.

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Ok finally got a chance to get my carb. off and apart. Here is what I found:

 

160 main

45 pilot or low speed

OCWER needle.

 

I still want to go bigger on the pilot due to the fact it wouldn’t idle below 3+ turns out on the pilot screw but not sure how much bigger. Also struggling on finding float level info. Everything I find shows a round float and a 9mm spec. but my float is not round. This looks a little high to me. Really appreciate your help.

FRC39.jpg

Edited by DJBSR

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Ok finally got a chance to get my carb. off and apart. Here is what I found:

 

160 main

45 pilot or low speed

OCWER needle.

 

I still want to go bigger on the pilot due to the fact it wouldn’t idle below 3+ turns out on the pilot screw but not sure how much bigger. Also struggling on finding float level info. Everything I find shows a round float and a 9mm spec. but my float is not round. This looks a little high to me. Really appreciate your help.

 

You have lost me on the needle code.?...Are you 100% sure that is what it reads..????..Try a magnifying glass..And clip position is..???

Once again I think you some pilot circuit blockage....install a new pilot jet and use compressed air on the carb passage ways...

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Opp besides the double post the needle is a OCEMR (typo). But I have used carb cleaner and compressed air on it and still would NOT idle below 3 turns????? Really don't want to put this carb back on and find the same low speed problem. The clip was in the 3rd slot

Edited by DJBSR

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Opp besides the double post the needle is a OCEMR (typo). But I have used carb cleaner and compressed air on it and still would NOT idle below 3 turns????? Really don't want to put this carb back on and find the same low speed problem. The clip was in the 3rd slot

 

You should have a richer needle in there....see post #12

This is why you are you out at 3+ turns with the fuel screw

Edited by Craigo 485sm

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Hey Craigo finally got my carb back together and on, went with your recommendation 155 main, 45 pilot, and OWEMP 3rd clip and the bike has never ran so good but I can still close the pilot screw off and never notice a change in idle quality. Should I try a 42 pilot?

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