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I am desperate....clutch issue, i have no experience.

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First off I would like to say thank you to everyone who has helped me in the past. You guys are awesome and I am so lucky a website like this exists. I tried looking threw the forums and finding an answer as I cant be the first person to have had this issue. I recently bought a kx 125 9 a 1999, the bike was restored from the frame off and it runs like a dream. Awesome compression, the carb is jetted perfectly, it shifts wonderfully, everything but one issue. Its gotta be a clutch issue but i cant put my finger on it. When I am in gear and i hold in the clutch, it doesnt go into nuetral except about half the time. Most times it stays in gear and when going slow  it stalls. When trying to go from neutral to start, half the time its fine, the other half it stalls. I know alot about bikes, but i have never ventured into the bottom end of any bike. I adjusted the clutch cable and its nice and tight and working as it should. Do i need new plates? a new basket? being that i have never had to rebuild any clutch, i have done carbs and top ends, should I take it to a shop? What could make the clutch work half the time and not the other half? This has me so stumped as its really getting in the way of enjoying my new bike. Any help you guys could offer would be great. I tried the search function but couldnt find anything specific to what I am experiencing. I can get new clutch plates off the bay for about 50 bucks. but if this is a hard thing to change I may just take it to the shop. problem is, I dont trust the shop. Their are only 2 shops near me, andboth will rake you over the coals. Please help, and thank you to anyone thart can offer some insight.

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so your bike stalls when you drop it into gear is what youre saying? because if you just rebuilt it, you may have plates that are dry and sticking together, try putting it up on a stand and running it fairly quick in first or second gear and stomp the back brakes. if plates stuck were the problem the problems now solved.
future clutch rebuild tips, soak your plates in some oil while they're sitting.

Edited by Theeebalz

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so your bike stalls when you drop it into gear is what youre saying? because if you just rebuilt it, you may have plates that are dry and sticking together, try putting it up on a stand and running it fairly quick in first or second gear and stomp the back brakes. if plates stuck were the problem the problems now solved.

future clutch rebuild tips, soak your plates in some oil while they're sitting.

yea and it only happens about half the time. Sometimes when I hold in the clutch while in gear its in neutral like it should be and other times, its still in gear.

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Basket is probably notched...but I would try draining the oil and run some atf type F fluid and see if that helps.

 

 

I was kind of thinking that too, but maybe the discs are sticking...  If the basket is notched out, you can carefully file it smooth again.  Baskets are spendy lol.  Probably get a used on on ebay for an ok price.

 

 

If the KX125 basket is the same as the KX250 basket I know of one for sale locally to me I could probably hook up if needed. Anyone chime in on that?

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 I would try draining the oil and run some atf type F fluid and see if that helps.

 

 

That's the first thing I would try. It's entirely possible that the previous owner simply put a too-heavy oil in the tranny, causing a lot of drag.

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Yes try running atf and change it out a few times after a hard ride. My friend's cr had gummed up clutch plates from the po never changing the oil and the high detergent of the atf cleaned the clutch up and cured the issue.

You could of course pop the cover and inspect the clutch first though:p

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It is very easy to work on the clutch on your bike. First off just to get ridof the confusion let me change some of the terminology. When you pull your clutch lever you do not go to neutral. You are disengaging the clutch. Only the shifter will take you to neutral. Releasing the lever engages the clutch. Pulling the lever releases the clutch.

Now that that is straight all motorcycle wet clutches drag a little. Usually they drag worse when cold. If the bike is cold and in gear, it will be difficult to roll or kick over even while holding the clutch lever in.

If you do have to change your clutch plates all you do is remove the right side clutch cover and then remove the bolts holding the pressure plate springs on. The pressure plat will come off and you can pull your plates and steels for inspection and inspect your clutch basket for notching. If you have to work on your clutch basket or replace it you will have to remove the entire side cover on the right hand side. It is easy but reading a manual or watching a video on YouTube on how to do it. If you don't want to loose your fluid you can shut off your gas and lay the bike on its left side and take it apart with out loosing a drop.

First I would change to atf in the case and make sure your bike is tuned properly before you take it all apart.

Edited by condor74
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It is very easy to work on the clutch on your bike. First off just to get ridof the confusion let me change some of the terminology. When you pull your clutch lever you do not go to neutral. You are disengaging the clutch. Only the shifter will take you to neutral. Releasing the lever engages the clutch. Pulling the lever releases the clutch.

Now that that is straight all motorcycle wet clutches drag a little. Usually they drag worse when cold. If the bike is cold and in gear, it will be difficult to roll or kick over even while holding the clutch lever in.

If you do have to change your clutch plates all you do is remove the right side clutch cover and then remove the bolts holding the pressure plate springs on. The pressure plat will come off and you can pull your plates and steels for inspection and inspect your clutch basket for notching. If you have to work on your clutch basket or replace it you will have to remove the entire side cover on the right hand side. It is easy but reading a manual or watching a video on YouTube on how to do it. If you don't want to loose your fluid you can shut off your gas and lay the bike on its left side and take it apart with out loosing a drop.

First I would change to atf in the case and make sure your bike is tuned properly before you take it all apart.

Ok i just ordered a new clutch cover gasket and Im going in guys the day it arrives. I have been watching tons of videos and I dont think this is something i cant handle. Your right, its not neutral persay, it when I am in gear the clutch doesnt engage, so if i am holding the clutch and come to a dead stop, the bike stalls. It makes riding trails and technical stuff rather difficult. i am going to pull the clutch cover once the gasket gets here. the PO was a wiz when it came to dirt bikes and he assured me this bike was top notch top to bottom. I have no reason to not believe him as he isnt a stranger and wasnt pushing the bike on me or anything. I think the plates are sticking, becuase the clutch is engaging half the time. I appreciate all your help, in the meantime I am now trying to figure out my sons crf50 carb/throttle issues.....ugh, we all just want to ride....

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Does it idle in Neutral ok?  As mentioned before, if you are not running ATF already, try that first and it is less invasive.  Also, I have taken my clutch cover off and complete side cover off several times with out replacing either gasket.  Just have to be careful.  The last time I took my side case off was to replace the water pump seals.  I never had an issue with reusing these gaskets.  It would be nice to have one handy just in case though.

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One of the first things I'd check is make sure when you take off the clutch cover make sure your pressure plate is working in and out evenly and not pulling to one side sounds like a possible clutch push rod bearing ( pressure plate bearing )

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