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Endless starting problems

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Hey all,

Been having a lot of problems starting my DRZ400. Engine turns over but it is not igniting. I’ve had a look at Marquez’s threads and have done these tests so far:-

  • Checked all electrical connections. Recently replaced the spark plug, stator and ignition coil – spark is good.
  • Put some oil in the cylinder, took off air filter and sprayed carby cleaner in while I tried starting it – I’ve heard this helps but unfortunately no effect
  • I have checked the spark plug for fuel after starting and it's definitely getting into the cylinder.
  • I have been able to jump start it before – it idles all over the place. Once the engine is warm, the engine starts no problem and the bike works! Unfortunately bump-starting is not working anymore.

The only I can think of is it's something to do with the valves/compression or the carburettor (although obviously fuel is getting to the cylinder :S ). A used carburettor costs around $200. I’d rather check valve clearances first, but the fact that it works when heated up makes me think it's not compression (although I literally have next to no idea with this stuff). Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts or has gone through the same thing. I will keep on trying but I might take to a mechanic to at least diagnose the problem so I can order and install the parts.

 

Cheers  :)

Edited by Jordan.27

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This was a different problem. I replaced the stator before these starting issues came up. One of the phases was fried and the stator wasn't giving electricity back to the regulator/battery. I guess they could be connected. Soon after doing the work I started having to throttle on while starting and the idle started getting erratic.

 

The ignition coil came as my mate said I wasn't getting the best spark (when the starting issues manifested).

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You should check your valves.

You may find the ex valves to be tight.

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You should check your valves.

You may find the ex valves to be tight.

Tight valves normally give hot start problems.

OP says bike starts fine once warmed up.

As the OP has given little information on engine/kilometres traveled, it would be worth doing a leak down test to assess the engines health.

But a top end inspection of valve clearance and cam chain wear would not hurt either.

I don't think a replacement carby is needed, I think you need a more knowledgeable person to check it for you.

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This was a different problem. I replaced the stator before these starting issues came up. One of the phases was fried and the stator wasn't giving electricity back to the regulator/battery. I guess they could be connected. Soon after doing the work I started having to throttle on while starting and the idle started getting erratic.

 

The ignition coil came as my mate said I wasn't getting the best spark (when the starting issues manifested).

Someone else will know but I think I remember something about coils here.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1075365-cdi-question-anyone-know-why-2-coils-are-needed/?hl=+pulse%20+coils

Not sure if there is any relevance to your issue but worth a read.

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Hey all,

Been having a lot of problems starting my DRZ400. Engine turns over but it is not igniting. I’ve had a look at Marquez’s threads and have done these tests so far:-

  • Checked all electrical connections. Recently replaced the spark plug, stator and ignition coil – spark is good.
  • Put some oil in the cylinder, took off air filter and sprayed carby cleaner in while I tried starting it – I’ve heard this helps but unfortunately no effect
  • I have checked the spark plug for fuel after starting and it's definitely getting into the cylinder.
  • I have been able to jump start it before – it idles all over the place. Once the engine is warm, the engine starts no problem and the bike works! Unfortunately bump-starting is not working anymore.

The only I can think of is it's something to do with the valves/compression or the carburettor (although obviously fuel is getting to the cylinder :S ). A used carburettor costs around $200. I’d rather check valve clearances first, but the fact that it works when heated up makes me think it's not compression (although I literally have next to no idea with this stuff). Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts or has gone through the same thing. I will keep on trying but I might take to a mechanic to at least diagnose the problem so I can order and install the parts.

 

Cheers  :)

 

 

do a compression test, with the auto decompresion mechanism disabled. 

 

also, if you go to a mechanic you'll likely find they just through new parts (and your money) at the problem until they get lucky. 

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Thanks to all who replied. :)

 

Yep once it gets hot it works fine, however I haven't even been able start it for a while so I can't check if this is still the case.

 

Bought some feeler gauges and the required tools. I will watch a few youtube videos and read Marquez's post on checking valve clearances and the like. Unfortunately I don't know the total kilometres, the instrument cluster has been changed. The engine 'looks' like it has had over 20,000 kms on it.

 

Again, thanks! I don't know how to do half these things but I'm sure youtube will help.

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